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訓練乖狗教戰守則之四：散步我作主！

2011-08-15T13:07:00.000+08:00

（請注意，這邊文章較長，但請務必仔細讀完，對於狗狗的快樂、健康和身心均衡的養成非常有幫助，相對也讓主人樂得輕鬆。）

散步主導權
你會不會像某些狗主人，對於遛狗視如畏途？畢竟，想到手裡牽著一條橫衝直撞、拖著你犁田的狗，讓你的手臂越練越粗壯，走路歪歪斜斜如醉漢，還冒著隨時被車子碾過的危險，並且在心裡暗自祈禱，希望狗狗今天別再做出什麼丟人或危險的事才好，就讓人不想出門遛狗。如果你是這樣的飼主，除了怪自己沒有多帶牠們出門玩（請記得，一天至少帶牠們出門上廁所三次，時間總和至少45分鐘）又能怪誰呢？重點來了，正如同我在守則一中提到的，如果沒有每天帶狗狗散一次長長的步，牠就會把累積起來的多餘精力拿來對付你。

所以，你越不遛狗，狗就越不受控制，最後形成毀滅的惡性循環。但是別擔心，接下來我會教你，如何讓遛狗成為一件輕鬆愉快的事，首先，要先確認你選對工具。

選用正確配備
多數那些表現不佳，喜愛拉扯牽繩的狗，配戴的是同一種牽繩，也就是胸背帶。這種繞過胸口的牽繩，讓狗可以用整個身體的力量來拖著你跑。真正的要訣，在於控制狗的頭部，只要控制了牠的頭部，就算控制牠的罩門。所以你應該選用俗稱「P字鍊」或「活結鍊」這種牽繩，它的神奇訓狗魔力能讓人狗都受益。P字鍊不像一般的「頸圈」，把壓力全部集中在頸部前方，而是讓壓力平均分散在頸部周圍，狗狗戴上的感覺就像被輕輕掐一下。你不妨可以拿自己當實驗對象，套在脖子上往後方或旁邊一拉，就知道沒有被緊勒的感覺（當然，如果狗狗使盡吃奶的力氣拉扯，當然還是有造成窒息的可能，所以一定要避免狗狗拉扯，並且在當下輕輕拉扯牽繩以示警告後，立刻放鬆）。

狗狗有種天性，若是脖子一感受到壓力，就會立刻集中注意在壓力來源，因為這就是狗群中老大展示權威的方式，牠會用嘴輕咬屬下的頸部，狗媽媽也會輕輕叼起幼犬的頸部上方，示意牠們放鬆，同時讓牠們安靜下來。為狗狗繫上P字鍊時，一定要用對方法。你的手拉住牽繩一端，另一端自狗狗頸部後方沿著喉嚨繞一圈，而不是從喉嚨往頸部後方繞。如果是先從頸部後方繞起，只要輕輕一拉繩就能收起活結，一放手就能鬆開活結。如果你先繞過喉嚨部位再往頸部後方，當你鬆手的時候，繩子的圈圈不會自己鬆開，會在狗狗頸部造成壓力。（請想像一下，假使遛狗時，狗狗走在你左方，繩子就會呈P字狀繫住狗狗，如果狗在右方，就會變成b字狀）。

散步就是要趾高氣昂
想要不拉扯就讓狗狗安分走在你身邊，很簡單，讓活結的部位高高停留在狗的頸部，儘可能靠近下巴和耳朵根部的部位，就可以避免狗狗的頭四處胡亂轉動，專心散步。如果狗狗企圖用力拉，牠的頭自然會被活結向上提起，這麼一來就不會被外在事物分散注意力，或者往前暴衝。是否提起活結很重要，提起活結，散步變得輕鬆許多，同時也可以鼓勵狗狗更有自信，因為提起活結讓牠的頭部自動抬高，肢體語言進而反應在心情上，所以千萬別讓膽小的狗養成畏縮走路的姿勢。

養成領袖地位的技巧
另外還有其他幾個好方法，可以讓狗狗接受你的領袖地位，遛起狗來自然也不必保持膽戰心驚。以下有個好玩的方法，可以避免狗狗把你拋諸腦後，全心往前衝，反而會乖乖地尾隨在你身邊或後方，對你服從得五體投地。

（為了方便起見，以下方法我們都假設狗走在你左方，若是你習慣讓狗走在右方，只要把步驟顛倒過來就行。）

讓狗狗走在你左邊，P字鍊放鬆，你自己也要換上冷靜自信的態度和肢體語言，腦中醞釀正面思考，想像你期望中的遛狗畫面，一定會輕鬆又好玩（狗會透過你的肢體，解讀你的心思）。但也要知道事情可能出槌，這時你應該如何迅速作出及時反應，讓情況恢復常軌？這我們在隨後會提到。

從現在開始到遛狗結束，你都不要看牠，因為這麼作會引起牠向你挑戰，原因在於一個好的領袖會心無旁騖，專心前進，不會往其他狗的方向看。等到狗冷靜下來，不會吵著往前衝時，你就可以輕輕拉牠一下開始前進。請想像你前方有一條橫線，一旦你餘光掃到狗狗企圖要僭越那條橫線，立刻向右轉90度，迅速但輕輕地扯牠一下，要牠跟著走（轉90度是因為這樣你拉牠比較方便，若是要後轉的話比較麻煩）。這時請繼續保持疏離，同時注意不能讓狗超車。

狗狗很快就會跟上腳步，說不定還打算再度超越你，這時只要再換一次方向，右轉90度輕扯牠就可以了。記得，進行這些動作時都不要看牠，肩膀往後，抬頭挺胸，專心往前走就是。

不斷重複這個步驟後，你很快就會發現狗狗再也不想超車了。這時你還不能放棄，要保持正面的態度，不把狗放在眼裡，並且享受這種「爾虞我詐」的快感。等你開始掌握訣竅以後，開始訓練牠往左轉，你很快發現狗狗會抬頭看你，等待你的指令，或者對你投以崇拜的眼神，把你當領袖看待。接下來，不管狗狗有沒有超車，都持續練習幾次右轉，再幾次左轉。

放輕鬆
除了偶爾輕輕拉狗以外，多數時候活結都是鬆的。緊繃的牽繩，就意味著緊繃的主從關係，也會引發狗狗想和你來場拔河大賽，所以千萬別這麼做。記得，手臂放鬆，牽繩放鬆（尤其在遇到別的狗狗時，這我們在之後會提到）。

整個練習，說穿了其實就是心機攻防戰。狗狗需要領袖，如果你無法擔起這角色，狗就覺得牠需要起而代之。而讓狗知道誰是老大的方法，就是隨時讓狗處於你身後，當你允許時，牠才能挺身出馬，久而久之牠會知道，自己排老幾，這就是簡單的致勝關鍵。如果你向這個原則妥協，就會在這權力競爭中敗陣下來。所以，散步時要專心，位階自然就會出來（這點適用於狗，也適用於人生。只要心想就會事成，所以要保持正面思考）。

你的態度是關鍵，所以千萬不要動輒抓狂，如果你能控制自己，就能控制狗狗。

自在上路去
只要運用這技巧，我就能在幾分鐘內輕鬆馴服暴衝狗，從來沒有失敗過，不管狗的體型、力道和年齡，通通有效。如果這招對你無效，請把上述內容再讀一次，檢查是否那個步驟出錯。可能是你又往他看去、牽繩拉太緊，或者在腦海裡上演失敗的情形，所以千萬別這麼做！

你可以在較無人煙的馬路或公園練習，只要有足夠的空間讓你轉彎即可。一旦狗狗安分地走在身後或身邊，你就可以開始走直線，請記得，若是狗狗走得太後面、太左邊或太前面，就把牽繩往上、往內拉。不要看牠，只要利用手腕輕輕拉緊就好。

讓一切在掌控之中
你剛開始練習建立領袖地位時，別讓狗狗在地上東聞西聞，隨處亂逛或四處張望。如果狗狗想在樹下尿尿，這時你要繼續走，讓牠尿在下一棵樹下。這麼做是要讓牠知道，你是老大，你說了算，狗狗其實還滿喜歡這招。只要牠接受你的領袖地位以後，你可以賦予牠更多自由，讓牠有更多空間探索環境，但是千萬不能讓牠拉扯牽繩。一出現拉扯，你就把牽繩往後拉，重拾自己的領導地位。

做好萬全準備
總會在有些時候，你發現狗狗不太情願接受你的領袖地位，或者跟你嘻皮笑臉，一副想跟你玩的樣子，這或許是因為牠害怕，或想去向外探索。遇到這種情況，就當作是練習的好機會，準備好幾種應對方式，重新取回你的地位。以下是我的建議：

1. 就算牠表現出害怕，你還是停下來，忽視牠。在狗冷靜下來以前，都不要輕舉妄動。如果狗狗開始放鬆了，不妨給予讚美。

2. 多作幾次變換方向的練習，直到狗狗恢復常態為止。

3. 輕輕把牽繩往上拉，嘴裡發出清脆短促的聲音，吸引狗的注意，然後繼續往前走。

4. 輕摸狗狗一下，或嘴裡發出「ㄘ～」的聲音，迅速讓牠把注意力轉回你身上。

5. 輕推狗狗的脅腹部（位於大腿上方，腰部的地分），這是狗狗「發表聲明」的方式，用腳就可以輕輕做到，但是千萬不要用踢打的，只要輕推牠一下，讓牠微微失去平衡即可。

記得，不要花太多時間在矯正「不良」的行為上，要趕緊往下一步走，專注在散步這件事本身，然後設法讓狗狗跟上來。記得要先發制人，在狗狗開始顯露出分心的前兆，例如看別的狗或貓時，就要出手矯正。

同時也要小心，別把你自己的恐懼投射到狗身上，這種情況屢見不鮮。當你看到可能的問題浮現時，記得加以忽略，抬頭挺胸往前走，千萬不要在潛意識裡幫狗打暗號，要牠準備應付眼前的問題。記得，要管狗，得先管好自己。

「乖狗狗！」
只要狗狗表現良好，就要給牠鼓勵或獎賞點心。說話時語調高昂輕柔，摩擦牠身體側部（摸頭可能會讓牠感覺威脅，摸胸則會讓狗興奮起來）。讓狗狗知道，你對牠的表現感到高興，牠就會更加努力，小心不要挑起牠的玩興就好。一般狗狗都喜歡被讚美，所以千萬不要吝於給予。

如果在遛狗時，能連帶建立起良好的主從關係，你馬上就會發現狗狗的行為大有改善，因為牠不再覺得自己無時不刻都得作主。當主人開始在遛狗時擔任領導角色，會很快發現狗狗們也樂得開心，遛狗成為一件樂事，主人和狗的關係也更加和諧。你也會享受到這些成果，只要保持正面的信心就好。

步驟總結
以下是重點總結

· 能在遛狗時取得領袖地位，就能同樣在其他情況控制狗狗的行為。

· 使用P字鍊，確保活結從頸背部往喉嚨繞，繩子固定在狗的下巴處。

· 輕拉牽繩，和狗溝通。

· 一旦狗試圖想要往前衝，就改變行進方向，輕拉牠後再右轉90度，讓狗走在你身後。

· 如果沒有信念，就很難成功。你先在心裡描摩出理想的遛狗畫面很重要，因為狗狗會讀出你的肢體語言。所以請保持自信、放鬆、冷靜，維持正面思考。

· 如果你有信心，不輕言放棄，狗也會接受你的領袖地位。

· 練習的時候，要控制狗狗的一舉一動，如果狗狗按照指示聽話，可以給予牠更多自由。

· 狗其實比較喜歡有領袖可以跟隨。

· 隨時都要做好準備，證明你的領袖地位。

· 在任何不良行為出現前，先發制人，加以矯正。

· 不要耽溺在錯誤中，隨時調整心情再出發，恢復正軌，享受和狗狗散步的樂趣。

· 享受散步樂趣，別把你自己的恐懼投射在狗身上，控制自己的念頭，就能控制狗。

· 狗狗表現好的話千萬不要吝於給予讚美。

請記得，遇到更好的領袖，狗狗其實很願意交出控制權和領袖地位。

訓練乖狗教戰守則之三：老大優先！

2011-07-19T02:18:00.002+08:00

下一個訓狗守則很簡單，但建議你要回來重複閱讀，確定把細節都弄懂，尤其是不能讓狗搶第一個出門這部份。

優先進入新環境

帶狗出去散步的時候，是誰先出門？是你還是狗？如果你的狗散步老是暴衝，讓你手臂上的二頭肌越來越壯，又或者牠老去找別的狗麻煩，甚至對某些東西表現出恐懼，那大概因為搶先出門的正是牠。很多人總是跟我說同樣的故事：「多多在家裡很乖，但只要一出門就像脫韁野馬，超級難控制。」如果你家的狗也是這樣，或者完全相反，也就是在外像條蟲，在家裡像條龍的話，你就該好好找出原因了。

每當面對新環境的時候，不管是在戶外、到獸醫院、穿過小巷子、進入狗公園、下樓梯，或只是進入自家花園，你都要走第一。這麼做不是因為當狗群的領袖一定要走第一，事實上狗狗的領導能力比我們好多了，就算牠們位在隊伍中間或後方，還是可以帶隊帶得嚇嚇叫。這麼做的背後原因比較複雜，但也比較有趣。

順應各種場合的優質領袖

在義大利他們針對流浪狗做過調查，發現每群狗通常有一、兩個領袖，帶隊的通常是母狗，但是有些狗群在不同場合有不同領袖。如果在巢穴附近是母狗當頭的話，去外頭擴張領域、驅趕入侵者或覓食這類的工作，可能就是另一隻狗的責任。這麼做可以有效確保狗群不管在什麼時候都能維持壯大，其他的成員也能視情況需要，隨機應變接受不同的領袖。

如果你想在任何情況取得領袖地位，最好的方法就是走進任何地方都搶第一，不讓狗有趁隙而入的空間。如果每次出去散步你都允許狗搶第一出門，拖著你在後面跑的話，那不管牠在家有多乖，出了門牠就認為自己重新取回領袖地位，偏偏牠的能力又沒好到可以決定什麼時候該追、咬、吠、害怕或攻擊，沒多久就會惹出一大堆麻煩來。

門口決定老大

所以，如果你想清清楚楚跟狗表明，你就是說話算話的老大（在下命令時務必保持冷靜自持，下一章節會提到），那麼解決方法很簡單：在出門之前，先把狗管好，保持冷靜態度，你先走出門，狗狗等你打信號後再跟上來。接著你把門關上，準備出發散步。

那我們又該如何讓狗狗乖乖聽話呢？我們要下命令，讓狗乖乖坐著，等門打開，直到人出去為止嗎？不必，發號施令不見得是維持領袖地位的最好方法，最好還是讓狗自己去摸懂規則，並用自己的語言告訴你，牠已經接受你控制了門戶並率先走出去的事實。如果你確實做好下面步驟，狗狗自然就會聽話。

如何先出門

（要記得，仔細閱讀以下內容，按部就班做到，絕對有效，如果想看實際操作，可以參考我網站上的影片）

如果你能把狗召喚過來，並為牠繫上牽繩，而不必窮追著牠跑只為幫牠套上牽繩的話，出門這一步就容易多了。首先你站在門邊保持冷靜自信，等狗乖乖過來穿上牽繩（我知道這對很多狗來說十分困難，如果是這樣的話，以最短的時間趨前為牠繫上牽繩，動作越快越好）。你也可以下指令要牠過來，但只要一次就夠了，不要唸個不停。如果狗狗肯這樣讓你上牽繩，就表示牠已接受你的領袖地位。

把狗牽到門口，若是牠搶先在你前方，等你過來開門，甚至開使用爪子抓門時，你必須插手奪回「門」的所有權。設法站在狗和門之間，可以適度使用牽繩把狗拉開，讓你有空間前進。等空間挪出來了，放鬆拉繩，冷靜確定地朝你的狗位置走去，嘴裡不忘發出「啊！」或「ㄟ！」的聲音。不要作任何與展現權威無關的東西，像是大吼大叫、胡亂下指令、發脾氣、提高音量等等，因為這只讓狗覺得你在失控。也可以試試對牠比著食指，意思像在說：「你想都別想。」的樣子，或狗的頭上擺個東西，讓牠覺得「上頭有人管」而服從，又或者輕輕用手指推一下牠胸口，有點像狗在「咬」的動作，要牠聽話。

建立新的互動
你的狗這時就會後退一步，一臉困惑的樣子，搞不懂你出什麼新招，然後坐下，或者站著等你會有什麼新花樣。你接著打開門，要有心理準備這時狗應該會打算一個箭步衝出去，這時候你應該要和之前阻止狗靠近門一樣，只是再加上非常嚴肅的表情和肢體語言，好像在說：「不要作得太過火！」這不會讓狗怕你，而是更尊敬你。接著要牠再退後幾步，準備要踏出門去的你，確保牠待在原地乖乖等候你下一個指令。狗狗通常很快就會毫無疑問地接受新領袖，而這也是我們很快成功的原因。

現在你應該要側著身站在門和狗之間，確保兩者中間暢通無阻，這很重要，因為你想讓狗出於對你的尊敬而留在原地，而不只是因為你站在中間擋路。打開門，往前踏一步，用同樣方法讓狗退後，不過你很快就發現狗狗學得很快，牠們會先看看門、看看你，然後後退等著你下指令。走出門，回頭看看狗有沒有打算衝上來，這時只消輕輕一拉狗鍊或下個簡單命令就可以做到。可以的話，等狗看到別的地方以後，再叫牠走出來，因為這樣就不是牠「要求」或「拜託」你讓牠出來了，這兩者是有差別的。

進入新的情況
走出門以後，還是要把狗控制好，因為此時牠們可能以為可以趁機搶在你之前衝出去。只要輕輕拉著牠，一副忽略牠的樣子，默不關心地一直等到牠恢復冷靜為止。接著把門關上，等狗冷靜下來不再躁動，才開始散步，並輕輕拉著狗給牠打方向。要記得，每次拉狗鍊就要立刻鬆開，這樣可以避免雙方拉扯，狗狗也不會產生抗拒之心。出發以後給牠大量讚美或小點心，讓牠知道你很高興牠願意接受你這個領袖。

只要練習幾次之後，你很快就成掌握流程，狗也能理解你的用意。千萬不要失去耐性或對牠低聲下氣，也不要妄自加入一些自以為有用的步驟。要取得控制權，就要保持一切簡單扼要，你第一，場合第二，接下來才是狗。每到一個新領域、環境或場合時就按照這步驟走，讓狗知道事情沒有商量的餘地，你就是老大，而牠的喜怒哀樂也在合理控制下。這個簡單的方法在什麼情況都能適用，也能幫你的狗狗認同新的階級地位。千萬別同情牠，如果毫無頭緒的人是你，他就會起而稱王，到最後累的還是你。

重點整理

你要先出門
狗在不同情況下有不同領袖
如果讓狗搶先出門，牠會認為自己是這個新領域的老大
每隻狗都有自己的性格弱點，如果你當牠的老大，只能讓牠稱王，並坐視牠的問題越來越大
狗狗很快就能接受新的領導者
取得領袖地位時，務必保持冷靜自信疏離
讓狗走過來上牽繩，不是你走過去
用手勢和態度讓狗退後，而不是蠻力
輕扯，不是用力拉；輕拍，不是用力推
隨時準備好面對狗的挑戰
趁狗冷靜乖巧的時候，再叫牠出門
狗狗表現好的時候不要吝於給予獎賞
享受你的領袖地位吧！

訓練乖狗教戰守則之二：善用關注!

2011-07-15T01:51:00.000+08:00

注意囉，所有狗主人！

狗跟人一樣，希望能得到關注。要察覺這點不容易，但你一旦作對了，會發現一切都很值得，也能一再鼓勵狗狗表現出正確行為。就像只要你忽略小孩，久而久之，他會尋求別的方法來引起你注意，甚至開始調皮搗蛋，為的就是換取大人的反應，而他也樂此不疲。有很多小孩，就是因為太常得到大人反應，進而培養出壞習慣，這時若不斷指責或處罰，只會給他們更多關注，在不知不覺中鼓勵他們的行為，變成惡性循環。同樣的，對我們的狗狗也是。

我們可以使用很多獎賞方式，來鼓勵狗狗某些特定行為，不管是給牠小點心、摸摸肚皮、大力讚美、開心碎念、散步或玩耍等，都能讓牠們高興飛上天。但常被忽略的獎賞方式，則是「給予關注」，只因我們從來沒好好想過給予關注的時機和方式，思考不夠周密的結果，就會造成諸多問題。

這裡有個相當受用的訓狗守則：只要狗狗表現出你所期望的行為，就特別注意牠；若是牠表現不好，就加以忽略（或短暫糾正）。很簡單，也相當符合常識，但我們卻很少付諸實行

謹慎使用你對牠的關注和忽視

以下就是典型的例子，在我幫主人訓練狗狗時經常碰到的問題是：每當有客人上門，狗狗就往人家身上撲，我問主人怎麼解決，回答則是對狗狗大吼大叫，不斷把狗推開，重複下指令，或把狗帶到另一個房間後把門關上。我再問，等客人踏進家門，狗狗也安靜下來，接下來會發生什麼事，通常得到的回答是，主人會小聲請客人儘量輕聲細語，才不會再度激起狗狗的情緒。其實，說到如何讓狗狗在客人上門時冷靜以對，這個作法是完全錯誤的！

把恐懼轉化成自信

另一個如何正確使用注意力的重要方式，比較難懂，甚至更難實行，但是效果立即可見而且影響深遠，尤其當你碰到的是個性膽怯的狗。例如，有的狗出門時很怕碰到陌生人，只要有人從遠方走來，狗狗就會向後退縮、拉扯牽繩、驚慌失措，儘可能躲避對方。這時候主人通常會用冷靜的語氣跟狗說話，不斷重複：「沒事，沒事，好乖。」以試圖撫平牠的情緒。但是當狗狗安安靜靜走在主人身邊時，主人卻什麼都不作也不說。這樣一來，主人便在無形中鼓勵狗狗的恐懼行為，卻沒在狗狗冷靜穩重時給予獎賞，問題的癥結就在這裡！

我在訓練這些狗狗的時候，會沈靜又自信地拉著牠們的鍊子，同時要主人限制自己的言行（甚至連想都不准想），不要介入。狗狗一開始和我離這麼近，總是嚇到失神，但我什麼都沒作，只輕輕扯一下牽繩（這裡所謂的「扯」，就是快速而輕微的拉一下，然後立即放鬆，千萬不要死命拉著牽繩，這樣只會製造緊張，加深狗狗的抗拒），專心帶著狗往前走。如果狗狗表現出恐懼，我會儘量忽略，並維持堅定自信的態度，甚至像個高貴神聖的領袖，滿心期望下面的人自動跟上來。通常這招就跟變魔術一樣神奇，原本狗狗就一心期待強而有力的領導出現，帶領牠穿越眼前的「可怕逆境」，這下子牠當然會乖乖走在我身邊，讓主人瞠目結舌大呼不可思議，自己的狗居然乖乖聽一個陌生人的話。

展現冷靜自信

接下來我會帶著狗狗走，嘴裡邊給牠甜言蜜語，狗狗也會越來越開心自信，但我也不忘專注在散步上。只要狗狗一有退縮的意思，我就會別開頭，輕輕拉一下他，記得絕對不要看牠，因為這不但是給予牠關注，同時也允許牠挑戰你權威的意思。若是這時有人來了，我

知道狗狗會驚慌，我會輕輕把牽繩往上同時往我身體方向拉，嘴裡一邊發出「啊！」或「ㄟ！」的聲音，翻譯成狗語來說就是：「不行！」（對說中文的人來說，採用「四聲」的字眼最有效，邊作邊跺腳也有用，任何其他語詞對狗來說都太輕微，起不了作用）。我有時會把腳擋在狗身後，以阻止牠後退，接著再讓牠坐下，等陌生人從身邊經過。只要狗狗表現出些微「冷靜以待」的樣子，就對牠說好話或摸摸頭。若是牠顯現出恐懼的跡象，就輕輕拉一下，或輕吼一聲「啊！」或「ㄟ！」。重複作個幾次，狗狗就能接受路人經過，過沒多久，我通常能讓狗狗在有人經過時很有自信地自動坐下，或忽略那些躁動的小朋友。

究竟是為什麼，效果如此神速又顯著呢？簡單來說，就是「（以高音調的語氣）鼓勵善行，忽視（或以短促低沈語氣糾正）惡行」，狗狗可以很快接受新領袖，並快速對主人的關注起反應，這也是我們能迅速達到矯正行為目的的不二法門。狗主人或許很難接受自己過去在錯誤時候給予的仁心，竟會釀成狗狗的恐懼或不安。我發現，要改的確不容易，但若你真心想要幫助牠們，就必須克制自己的本能，避免在狗狗出現不安和恐懼時，給予不當的注意力和情感。

善用神奇的「注意力法則」！

同樣的方法也適用於任何訓狗守則和任何情況。例如，若是狗狗喜歡往客人身上撲，你就應該趁牠安靜下來時給予溫和鼓勵，並且請客人完全忽略狗狗又撲又跳的舉止（不看、不摸不說話，完全表現出漠然的樣子，好像狗狗根本不存在），如果狗狗把爪子伸出來，轉身迴避即可（千萬不要用手把牠們拉開，導致牠以為你要跟牠玩）。只要狗狗一安靜下來，就請客人給予正面鼓勵，若是狗狗又要撲上來，立刻轉身迴避，讓牠們的腳落地，這一招超有用，試試看就知道。

結論就是…

在這裡和你分享一個我生平聽到最受用的建議，不要光是試圖「矯正」問題狗狗，同時也記得要努力讓生活過得更美好。若有不喜歡的事情不斷發生，告訴自己：「這都是我造成的。」並且自問：「我到底作了什麼，才會鼓勵牠這樣為所欲為？」很可能是你在不自覺情況下鼓勵狗狗這麼做的，誠實地、仔細地好好想一想吧，到底是哪裡出了錯，找出問題根源，加以調整，在適當時機善用注意力，必要時採取忽略，接下來就等著看問題逐漸獲得解決。

快去給予狗狗一些溫暖又平靜的關注吧，前提是牠真的表現良好喔。若是牠出現興奮、跋扈等惡行，就忽略或簡短糾正。告訴我效果如何，我很期待你和狗狗之間產生美好的化學變化！

Lucky Needs your Help

2011-07-06T14:41:00.002+08:00

While heading home in a taxi late Friday night, we just happened to glance out the window as we sped past a black dog, lying hunched and looking scared at the edge of the elevated expressway. This is one of the most dangerous places to try and rescue a dog—dangerous for both dog and person—so a rescue in such a situation can only be performed by a professional. Or someone stupid. So I decided to try.

We stopped the taxi as it came down from the expressway and dodged cars to get to the same edge, though a good half a kilometer away from the dog. We then spent about ten minutes slowly walking up along the kerbside, stopping to hug the crash barrier each time cars and trucks got too close. To those speeding past, it must have looked as though we were considering jumping.

No one called the police, however, and we finally made it to within about ten meters of the dog, who was precariously close to the wheels of passing, speeding vehicles.

The danger in this situation is that, while trying to rescue the dog, it's very likely that he or she could get spooked and run into the speeding traffic. There is also a very real danger of either the dog or rescuer being clipped by a passing vehicle.

We put our bags down on the kerb and waited for a break in the traffic to run up the middle lane and around to the other side of the dog—the idea being that, this way, if spooked, he would stick to the edge and, if he could run, he would head towards the closest exit.

We slowly edged towards him, again hugging the barrier, and it soon became apparent that the dog was calm—and badly injured. And also very happy to see us. As we got closer, he dragged himself closer to us and lay his head on my foot.

He had visible injuries to his head and back legs, including a bloody eye. We had to get him to a vet as soon as possible. A leash was put over his head, but, when he tried to stand, he yelped in pain and collapsed again. So we very carefully wrapped the leash around his muzzle to stop him biting and lifted him up to carry him back off the elevated expressway. He was heavy—about 26 kilograms, but thankfully not struggling too much.

But progress was extremely slow and very scary, as we had to try and walk forwards while constantly watching behind us so we could stop and lean against the barrier each time vehicles got too close. It was while turned and looking at the oncoming traffic that we heard a kind voice behind us: "Are you OK? What's happened?" The young driver of a minivan full of his sisters and friends had stopped in our lane just ahead of us, with their hazard lights on, and they were coming to help us. It was an incredibly welcome sight, and I explained what had happened as they guided me into the safety of their van, insisting on changing their plans so they could drive us to the 24-hour emergency vet in Neihu, about 25 minutes away. They were all animal lovers—some with many dogs of their own—and wanted to do whatever was necessary to help this poor black Lab, who they decided to name Lucky.

We finally arrived at the vet, and Lucky was examined immediately, with blood tests and x-rays taken. His injuries are extensive: his face and legs are scarred, he has concussion and air in his chest cavity, a dangerously high liver count . . . and a badly broken pelvis. But he cannot undergo surgery until his liver count is down.

We are hoping to move him to our regular vet, YangMing Vet Hospital in Tienmu, to have the surgery performed once it is safe to do so. We will do all we can to bring Lucky back to health. But his vet bill is already high because of using an emergency vet service, and we desperately need some help to pay for that.

If you would like to support Lucky's recovery, please contact Anri Sung (tagged in this album) to learn how you can go about that. You are also welcome to visit Lucky and pay the vet yourself, though do contact Anri to find out if Lucky has been moved yet if you want to see him. (Update: I've added donation info below.)

Huge thanks to 龍也 and all the pretty ladies in his minivan for being kind enough—and brave enough—to stop and rescue us!

We'll be posting updates about Lucky's progress, so watch this space. You can also join the Taiwan Animal S.O.S. page to learn about other animal rescues. :)

http://www.facebook.com/TaiwanAnimalSOS

Thank you!

Street view of rescue location, thanks to Google Maps:
http://maps.google.com/maps?q=taipei&hl=en&ll=24.997958%2C121.535351&spn=0.001145%2C0.002411&sll=37.0625%2C-95.677068&sspn=32.472848%2C79.013672&z=19&layer=c&cbll=24.998262%2C121.535331&panoid=_qq_EgQEQyUA_v63PSvEDQ&cbp=12%2C202.02%2C%2C0%2C19.92

UPDATE 3/JUL/2011: The vets at National say that Lucky's kidneys are OK, but his liver count is still very high, though lower than yesterday. He is no longer vomiting, so they will now try giving him liquid food. Dr Yang at YangMing Vet Hospital will examine Lucky's x-rays tomorrow in preparation for performing the surgery to repair his smashed pelvis.

To donate directly (and only) to Lucky's medical bill (our other expenses are minimal and we fund-raise separately for those):

宋安莉 Anri Sung
paypal: Anri0408@gmail.com
Acct.no: 124-20-046128-9
Bank code: 008 (華南商業銀行 Hua Nan Commercial Bank)
東台北分行 Tung-Taipei Branch

Lucky thanks you!

UPDATE 5/July/2011: Dr. Yang at YangMing Vet Hospital did more x-rays and found that Lucky's spine is broken. It's likely he'll not walk again. But we will keep trying, and we'll get more opinions to see if anything can be done. If not, then Lucky will become a wheelchair dog, that's all.

UPDATE 6/JULY/2011: Lucky has a future—maybe not the future he envisioned, but a future nonetheless. As someone with disabled dogs myself, I can tell you that they accept their new situation and simply get on with enjoying life any way they can.

WE NEED TO RAISE FUNDS TO PAY FOR LUCKY'S SURGERY. Although he will probably not walk again, we decided to fix his pelvis to give him greater comfort and prevent further problems down the line. Our vets did an outstanding job, and the surgery went well. If you would like to contribute, we really need your support, and every little helps—it really does.

We have created a ChipIn account so you can see exactly how much we need and how much we have raised. The total may change from time to time to take into account other expenses or donations received through other channels, but we will always notify of the changes on the ChipIn page, which is right here:

http://luckthelab.chipin.com/lucky-the-lab

Again, every little helps, and we are working hard already to find Lucky a home for life no matter what his physical limitations. He thanks you!

Nurturing a Better Dog, Trick No. 6: Eat First!

2011-06-28T16:18:00.007+08:00

Leaders Get the Richest Pickings

One of the most important occasions for dogs to establish hierarchy is at mealtimes. Simply and understandably, the alphas have the best or first pickings; it ensures they can stay strong to lead the group while reminding the rest of the pack of the status quo. While some lower-ranking dogs may try to edge in to take what the lead dog is guarding, the alpha will put them back in their place with a snarl, a growl, a bearing of the teeth, or maybe even a snap. Some people believe their dog already respects them as leader because he or she will sit nicely and not eat until told to, but this is obedience, not leadership, and your dog may actually think that he or she has got YOU trained to give your food up just by sitting nicely. Once the food is on the floor, your dog knows it’s his or hers and not yours, so that waiting until you say ‘OK!’ really has little bearing on how he or she perceives his or her status.

Going Back to the Wild

At 1:00 of this video is a great clip of British wolf expert Shaun Ellis asserting his role as pack leader to four adult-sized wolves he has hand-reared. Hunching over the carcass of a deer in which he had secreted a sealed bag of all the prime bits, cooked for his benefit, Shaun sees off several challenges for the prized organs by snarling and growling in the face of a large wolf who is doing the same in an attempt to force Shaun to back down. If he had shown fear or weakness and allowed the challenger to move in on the best pieces, it would have been a clear indication that he is not fit to lead. But he didn’t; he defended the organs and his status as pack leader remained assured, and balance was maintained within his pack.

How to Prepare

So, for this lesson, you need to first procure the carcass of a deer or any similar large prey animal—no, just kidding; all you need to prepare for this technique is a small snack, such as some cookies or fruit, or, if you prefer, just get ready to do some award-winning acting before a drooling canine audience. Let’s assume you prepare your dog’s food in the kitchen, and it is something that your dog is always hungry for (a natural diet of raw, meaty bones is not only extremely healthy for your dog, but always scoffed heartily—wolfed down, if you will—unlike processed pellets that we tend to feed out of convenience and misplaced trust in advertising; but more on that in a later article). Simply prepare your dog’s food bowl while completely ignoring him or her, and place it on the kitchen counter next to your snack when ready. Remember, if your dog is, like most dogs, tired of eating processed convenience food, do this exercise with something he or she will relish, such as a raw egg, or a piece of meat, or anything else that dogs love (and is healthy for them, if possible).

Wait While Ignoring

Now, your dog has probably up until now been given his or her food immediately after it’s prepared, or perhaps after telling you to give it to him or her by sitting nicely or staring (you thought you were controlling your dog at this point, didn’t you; you weren’t—your dog is under the impression that all it takes is a little trick or two of his or her own to get the food he or she was coveting). This time, however, you will completely ignore your dog after the food is prepared, and instead of giving it to him or her, you will act aloof and pretend to eat from the bowl. You can eat the snack you put the bowl next to or just pretend to be eating the dog’s food, but the whole time you must ignore your dog completely. If he or she makes a noise, ignore or correct with an ‘Ah!’ or ‘Eh!’ sound. If your dog tries to jump up, step into him or her making the same abrupt ‘Eh!’ or ‘Ah!’ sound as though to say ‘Hey! Back off!’ or ‘Don’t you dare!’ (Don’t say these things; project the attitude behind them using posture and tone). Then act aloof again and continue to pretend to eat the dog’s food.

Reward Respectful Behaviour

You will notice out of the corner of your eye that your dog will stop demanding so much now and will probably be sitting nicely. That’s great, but not good enough—all the time your dog is staring at you or the food, it is a demand to have it, so keep on pretending to eat until the moment your dog looks away, even briefly. Now, you could put the food down at this point and then walk away (don’t watch your dog eat, as it will seem like you want the food he or she is eating, and, as you’re not getting it, your status will be lowered). But better is to wait even longer until your dog shows absolutely no interest in the food. This may take a little time, but if you’re prepared to wait, it will happen. Your dog will likely turn his or her back to you and lie down—a clear signal that he or she respects and trusts you. If you wait until that moment to put the food down, then you will find your dog listens to you so much better later.

Act, Dammit! Act!

When practicing this trick, really put on an Academy Award-winning performance: act totally regal, with head up and showing aloofness; totally ignore your dog; really pretend to enjoy eating the food that your dog wants; and act out feeling full with what you’ve pretended to eat and no longer wanting any more just before you put the bowl down. Have fun with it. Enjoy the various reactions your dog will go through as you demonstrate your top-dog status with his or her food. And have a very clear vision in your mind of how you expect this to turn out but also know how you will correct any unwanted behaviours so they don’t take you too far off track. Really have fun playing at being the alpha—just fake it til you make it—and realise that you being your dog's leader is in fact rewarding for both of you.

As I Say Every Time, Consistency is Key

Do this with you dog every day, with his or her food, with treats, with toys, even when he or she wants to go for a walk, and you will feel a whole much better relationship develop between you as you are now acting more consistently with your rightful role as the one calling the shots. Get all your household members to practice this, and even have house guests do it if your dog has shown issues with strangers (remember to have them walk your dog too). After a while, your dog will assume the non-demanding, respectful position almost as soon as the food is ready, but you should still wait a while to give the impression that you are eating first—you could, though, praise him or her at this point if it doesn’t provoke excitement.

Assumed Leadership

This is the clearest, most powerful way to show your dog where he or she belongs within your household hierarchy. But here’s something that I so often see when teaching people these tricks at their homes: after I have lead the dog on a walk after going through doors first and totally controlled his or her behaviour, he or she will usually assume a non-demanding, non-eyeballing position as soon as I prepare his or her food, even if he or she had always got excited at feeding times previously. So don’t be surprised if this goes much better than you’d imagined; if you have been practicing the previous lessons properly, your dog may already know never to challenge you for food.

Summary

Here's a quick recap of the most important points:

Meals are the most powerful times to establish hierarchy
Alphas eat first and get the prime bits
Having your dog sitting and staring at his bowl until you say 'OK' is NOT leadership in a dog's eyes
Put your dog's food next to a snack you want to eat
Pretend to eat your dog's food by eating the snack or just acting as though eating from his or her bowl
Act aloof and ignore throughout, but watch your dog from the corner of your eye or in a reflection
Really act the role
When your dog stops staring, you can pretend you've finished and put the bowl down
BETTER: Wait until your dog not only stops staring, but also turns his or her back and/or lies down
Correct any jumping up but otherwise ignore
Do not watch your dog eat, as you don't want to give the impression that your dog now has something you want but can't get
If your dog is understandably bored with grain-based, convenience foods, such as dry or canned food, consider a natural diet of raw, meaty bones (more info in the next series) or healthy treats that you know he or she likes
Be consistent—that goes for others in the house too

So, enjoy your dog’s food (well, pretend to), and let me know how it goes!

Seán

訓練乖狗教戰守則之一：遛狗

2011-06-20T10:44:00.000+08:00

把精力遛光
對很多家有惡犬的主人來說，訓練狗狗的方法很簡單：給牠大量運動就對了。「就這樣嗎？」你可能會問。「多數情況是這樣沒錯。」這是我的回答。大家對養狗常有一個錯誤認知，那就是以為狗狗需要住在有大院子的大房子裡，才有空間可以奔跑。所以我常聽到有意來認養狗狗的人，推託說因為「我住在小公寓，這樣對狗不公平。」而不能養狗。其實，狗狗常因為覺得擁有很大的「領土」，必須肩負起守衛責任而感到壓力沈重。至於那些因為主人「施恩」而每天被限制在院子裡活動的狗狗，也快樂不到哪去。

最快樂、身心最均衡的狗狗，在於能擁有一小塊自己專屬的領土，並且每天散上45分鐘的步。沒錯，要45分鐘，當然這45分鐘可以拆成很多段來進行，尤其如果你的狗狗只能在外頭上廁所的話，本來就應該一天帶他們出去散步三次，如果狗狗不到八個月，散步次數則更多。不過，如果能一次散夠長的步是最好的，對人狗都有益處，因為狗狗可以藉由正常的管道抒發身心活力。事實上，如果你不能每天提供狗狗足夠的運動，就算上再多的訓練課程，效果也很有限。

滿足牠的需要
狗狗有向外探索的天性，想到處聞聞剛有什麼東西經過，不顧一切的往前衝，滿足自己對外頭世界的好奇心，並且和親愛的主人一起分享，這時候，為牠牽起牽繩就能讓人狗都享受到這份樂趣。被關越久的狗狗，會壓抑越多的情緒，若是多餘的精力不能得到正當抒發，就會演變成任何你不想見識的邪惡力量，像是破壞行為、吠叫、緊張或攻擊性。難怪，在我養的狗中，一聽到外頭有風吹草動就吠叫的，通常是殘障狗，因為牠們不能透過散步來宣洩精力和獲得刺激。而在我住的社區中，那些一看到路人經過就叫個不停、低吼示威或動輒抓狂的狗，則是那些「有幸」住在院子裡，卻哪裡也去不了的狗。

想像一下，如果成天被限制在自家內，或甚至只能在院子或花園裡行動，完全不能走出家門看看外面的世界，你會變得多麼憤怒和緊張，接著開始出現怪異的行為，不是想盡辦法宣洩精力或尋求刺激，就是自我封閉，成天悶悶不樂。你的狗也是，牠們每天若能跟在領袖身邊散個步，就會感覺滿足快樂。當然像玩撿球或拔河遊戲，也有助於幫助抒發精力，但是長長的散步還是最有效的方法。

一獨處就容緊張或吠叫的狗狗，事先帶牠散步最有效。就連最愛搗蛋或具有攻擊性的狗，當精力得到宣洩時，很容易就冷靜下來。一條疲累的狗，就是好狗。就算生性神經兮兮的狗也不例外。狗狗的行為，會隨著散步品質和時間的增加而改善。

控制問題
但就多數情況來說，遛狗最好繫上牽繩。這是因為，如果你想要矯正狗狗的不當行為，就必須先控制牠（同時也要控制自己的觀念、肢體語言和心情）。另外，若你遛狗的方式正確，不但可以鞏固自己的領袖地位，也可以訂定整個團隊（其實也就是人與狗）的行為準則，包括該去注意什麼，該追逐什麼，該對什麼吠叫，該小心什麼，或該攻擊什麼等。只要繫上牽繩並在適當時候加以阻止，就可避免狗狗去追咬其他狗，因為在遛狗途中狗狗已經得到清楚的指示，那種展開追逐帶來的刺激快感，已經得到克制與遏止。同樣的，這個道理也可以應用在管教其他不當行為上，就連最惡霸的狗也不例外。

不過，問題來了。如果你家的狗毛病很多，遛狗可能會變成一件令人頭痛的事，因為狗狗老是會暴衝，不是撲在路人身上，就是閃車，或者對其他「路狗」吠叫。幸好，只要繼續照著我接下來的守則作，就可以擁有一條氣定神閒、寸步不離乖乖走在你身旁的模範狗，只專心享受散步的快樂，完全不理會外在的誘惑。不相信嗎？你遲早會改觀，只要照著作，馬上會看到成效。

主人也受益
科學已證實，每天散步就是讓狗狗快樂、健康、長壽又抒壓的秘訣。如果你一直視遛狗如畏途，覺得這是一件無聊苦差事的話，不妨趕緊改觀，把它看做是狗狗送你的每日驚喜，有助於你出去呼吸新鮮空氣、舒展筋骨，把一天的壓力拋諸腦後。更棒的是，這是免費的活動！只要狗狗可以乖乖的走在你身邊，我保證，就算再討厭遛狗的人，也會開始從中獲得樂趣，而且「感覺良好」，尤其你發現人狗之間的關係也因此大為改善。很多人都說，隨著遛狗的時間增加，自己和狗狗的關係也變得更緊密。

所以，趕快關上電腦螢幕，把目光放到狗狗身上吧。問問自己，牠現在想作什麼？想想看，只要每天重複做一件簡單小事，就可以改善狗狗的行為，又可以增進自己的健康快樂，多麼棒！快拿起牽繩，對那個四腳同伴微笑，散一個長長的步吧。一個簡單步驟，就可以培養出一條人見人愛的乖狗，也可以讓自己的人生更樂活，快點和牠一起到外面的世界闖一闖吧。

祝你遛狗愉快！

訓練乖狗十大教戰守則

2011-06-16T07:13:00.003+08:00

如何克服狗狗的行為問題
從今天開始，我會分享一系列有關如何教養狗狗的文章。不管你家寶貝有什麼行為上的問題，舉凡沒大沒小、具攻擊性、偏執行為、走路暴衝、吠叫或破壞家具等毛病，只要照著我提供的十個簡單步驟作，就能解決問題。其中有些方法相當基本，主要在激發狗狗的優點，有些方法則是讓狗狗知道你的主人地位，明白只有你才可以訂規矩。儘管這些方法簡單，但你很快就會發現，實行起來的效果十分驚人。

當個稱職成功的主人，最重要的是在狗狗出現不良行為時保持沈著冷靜，以自信的肢體語言和語氣加以指正；另外也要懂得以開放的身體姿勢和嘉獎語氣來鼓勵狗狗某些行為。千萬不要對狗吼叫或拳腳相向，因為這只會讓狗更怕你，進而衍生出更多不當行為。記得，重點是要以平和、穩重的態度，讓狗狗分辨對與錯。

改變比想像的快
狗狗學習速度很快，但問題在於，很多時候我們並不知道自己已在無形中「教導」了牠們。很多人曾請我幫忙矯正行為嚴重偏差的狗狗，我卻發現，這些主人早在不知不覺中鼓勵狗狗的惡行，同時也阻礙狗狗「向善」。我會教大家如何「撥亂為正」，讓狗狗學會「分辨善惡」。

好消息是，狗狗很快就會接受新的領導者，並決定自己的位階，所以你會發現，狗狗許多行為問題會立刻獲得解決。只要你表現出好領袖的風範，狗狗自然會跟從。大多數的狗狗都很樂意交出領導旗幟，扮演跟隨者的角色，如此一來身上所背負的壓力和焦慮就可以大為減輕。但你同時要瞭解和接受的是，狗狗每天都會挑戰領袖地位，這麼做不是出於輕視或故意作對，而是出於天性，牠們想確定這個團隊結構是否穩固，領袖是否可靠。如果發現情況不對，就要有新的領袖取而代之，而這時就會產生問題，因為並非人人都是當領袖的料，強出頭的結果就是自己妄下決定，無故亂叫、膽怯、追逐或攻擊等。只要你堅守自己的規則，狗狗自然會服從；只要你一鬆懈，狗狗就會趁機測試你的底線，然後開始打鬼主意想要篡位。

這也難怪，有很多緊張兮兮的狗，主人卻是好的不得了，這當然是因為主人不願在必要的時候，例如狗狗出現不當行為時，對狗狗採取嚴格管教。有些人以為，一旦自己開始出手管教或展現領導地位，狗狗就會離他而去，這真是無稽的想法。狗狗需要冷靜沈著的主人，才能感到安心。當我把牽繩套在一隻緊張或焦慮的狗狗身上，然後只輕輕拖住牠，阻止牠後退、拉扯時，接下來發生的事常會讓主人大呼不可思議：因為狗狗不但立刻停止拉扯，還會朝我走來，如果我當時坐在地上的話，牠甚至會爬到我腿上獻上擁抱。這全是因為我展現出主人所沒有的冷靜沈著。所以當主人親眼見到原本的「惡犬」突然會向陌生人示好時，他們才明白，所謂的「好主人」就是必須順應狗狗的需要，就算有違人類的本性也不例外。

而這也是身為團體領袖必須具備的特質：訓練狗不能靠直覺反應，而是要靠牠們的語言讓牠們瞭解誰是老大，規矩是什麼。每當我出面管教一隻狗時，會設法改變狗狗看待主人的眼光，而主人也學會在必要的時候保持態度堅定，在該放鬆時候盡情和狗狗一起享樂。

你也作得到
所以，主人們，開始準備上課囉。以下課程內容全都根據過去我幫狗狗矯正行為問題的經驗而來。有些人上過課以後，很快就能找到問題關鍵，作出必要的改變，就算只靠自己也能快速改善狗狗的問題。我希望你也能快速上手，並且在過程中提出觀察、評論或發問，這樣我也能修改課程內容，讓大家都受益。有些人必須看到實際操作才能吸收，所以我隨後也會附上教學影片，但也有些人認為自家的狗狗天生就與眾不同，這些方法絕對起不了作用，然後用盡各種藉口說這樣做就是行不通。針對這些主人，我願意僅收取微薄費用，親自和你家狗狗進行一對一教學，如果上課後你看不到顯著改變，我保證不收一毛錢。這些方法保證有用，你首先要親眼看到成效，就會相信。

不管你家狗狗問題是什麼，都是可以矯正的。當大家問米開朗基羅，他究竟如何把一塊冷冰冰的石頭變成栩栩如生的雕像時，他的回答總讓大家意外，因為他說自己無須創造什麼，只是放手去作，把原本隱藏在石頭中的美麗作品釋放出來而已，而你也可以這麼作。再壞的狗狗，心裡其實都藏著一隻好狗，千萬別以為把壞狗變好，是不可能的任務，因為狗狗的本質都是良善的，只是必須靠你幫牠移除阻礙物。狗狗是你的鏡子，如果你是好主人，狗狗就會變成好隨從，而別忘了，人人都可以當個好主人。

放輕鬆享受課程吧
但是，千萬不要過份講究完美，記得，每隻狗狗個性不同，在社交或體力方面自然會有不同表現。像我自己的狗，除了「來」和「放下」以外，其實聽不懂什麼指令。我喜歡狗狗保有自己的「性格」，也不喜歡看到狗狗一舉一動都受人類限制。避免當個控制狂，人、狗都會快樂些，只要在適當範圍內規範牠的行為準則，就夠了。

所以，好好享受接下來的課程吧！和狗狗一起練習，並且隨時把意見、心得和問題貼上來與我分享，以供我隨時修正。我隨後也會修訂文章，歡迎訂閱我的部落格。

相信你和狗狗很快就能過著幸福快樂的生活！

Nurturing a Better Dog, Trick No. 5: Ignore Excited Greetings

2011-06-07T12:14:00.008+08:00

It's All Important

If you have been following the series so far, I hope will have been practicing the techniques and already experiencing a positive change in your dog's behaviour. Although the methods are simple and some may seem to have nothing to do with your own dog's issues, by practicing them all regularly and consistently, you will be laying the foundations for a much happier, healthier, relaxed dog—and you. So, please, before you read on, go back and absorb the previous lessons and start practicing them from now on; you really will see great improvement just by following the previous advice.

This next lesson, although seemingly ineffectual at first glance, has the potential to bring about a huge difference for the better in your dog's behaviour, particularly if they have issues with excitability, anxiety, separation, or jumping up on visitors. Admittedly, it is one of the most difficult to carry out—not because it is hard to grasp or master, but because it goes against something that we tend to look forward to and enjoy every day. It's about ignoring your dog when you come home.

Ignore When Returning Home

"What?! Ignore my dog when he excitedly greets me on my return? Turn my back on his demands for a hug hello? Be aloof to my best buddy? Why on earth would I want to do that?!" I admit that it seems counterproductive (and a little rude), but the reasons why you should ignore your dog when you walk in the door are manifold and of profound importance to his or her state of mind.

For one, we should never reward excited behaviour that your dog initiates (we can of course go crazy with our dogs once in a while, but always on our terms, on our say, and only until we decide that it's time to stop). When your dog jumps up at you when you walk in the door and you accept that, you are telling your dog that you encourage him or her to lose control—and that means allowing your dog's issues to dictate his or her behaviour. To control our dog's problem behaviour, we must be in control of ourselves and every situation at all times.

Maintain the Status Quo

Another reason is that it is allowing your dog to disrespect you and not only giving the go-ahead to challenge your role in his or her pack, but also submitting to his or her bid for leadership. A pack leader would never tolerate another dog jumping on his or her back (in play, yes, but never at a time when it is important to demonstrate leadership).

Furthermore, by making such a huge fuss on our return, we are encouraging our dog to see our homecoming as one of the biggest events in his or her day, and that's not good, as it just leads to greater anxiety or out-of-control behaviour in anticipation of that moment. The same goes for when you leave the house: you should always make these daily events as low-key as possible—for your dog's benefit.

Control

Another reason is that we do not want to encourage our dogs to greet people (or other animals) in this way, as it is dangerous to all concerned, unappreciated by most recipients, and can lead to situations where your dog could be labeled as aggressive or out-of-control—and we all know where that can lead, especially if your dog jumps up at a child or somebody whose reaction will only make your dog more excited and, yes, aggressive.

Be Aloof!

Whenever a dog's pack leaders leave the den, it is usually to perform a potentially dangerous task, such as exploring new territory, defending boundaries, fighting, or taking food. It is likely that dogs—including the pack leaders—could be badly injured or even killed on such a foray. When the scouting party returns to the rest of the pack, they will be greeted enthusiastically, with lots of whole-body wagging and face-licking, which are joyous but respectful behaviours. Pack leaders will allow other dogs to greet them in this fashion, but they do something very powerful to reassure all the dogs of their continued ability to lead, to maintain the pack's status quo: they remain aloof.

Yes, aloof! You can do it! Just pretend you're royalty (though, as far as your dog's concerned, you really will be). When your dog gets too excited—and especially if he or she jumps up—simply turn away (don't get annoyed; you're regal, remember!) and ignore. You may have to do this several times. You may have to very briefly push your dog down (do not linger!) and then turn and ignore, but ignore you shall . . . but (and here's the good news you've been waiting for) only until your canine buddy has calmed down and no longer demanding attention; once that has happened, you can crouch down (so he or she doesn't have to jump up) and enjoy a much calmer, much more relaxed, much more respectful, and much more loving greeting.

Should your dog get excited or try to jump up or paw you when you're enjoying this calmer greeting, simply stand up in an aloof fashion and ignore your dog again until he or she calms down—which will happen within seconds—and then reward that with calm, quiet attention again.

Dogs Want to Know You're Still the Leader

And here's the thing to remember: Your dog will not perceive you as being mean and his or her feelings won't be hurt; instead, your dog will enjoy seeing that the pack structure is intact, his or her calm, assertive, benevolent leader is still in charge, and he or she won't have to step into the stressful role of leader for the pack's sake. The more you greet your dog this way, the happier, calmer, and better behaved he or she will become.

You should also advise all house guests (or anybody who greets your dog) to do the same: tell them your dog is in training and please do not look, talk, touch, or respond in any way to your dog until he or she is calm, and then ask them to give your dog a very calm, very nice, very relaxed bit of attention. Always, though, let your dog smell anybody he meets; it's how dogs meet each other, but we humans go and break protocol—rudely and aggressively—when we try to greet them the way we greet each other, with sight, sound, and touch.

Make Yourself Busy

I have a number of dogs to return home to several times a day, and although a couple may bark as they hear me outside, when I walk in the door, I am greeted respectfully and therefore more affectionately by them all. I make a point of busying myself for several minutes while ignoring them all, before greeting each affectionately once I'm sure I won't be causing excitement. Do the same—maybe go empty your washing machine, or quickly sweep the floor before greeting your dog on your return—and he or she will be so much happier knowing that you've returned from your foray unharmed.

As always, change first needs to come from you if you want to see change in your dog. Enjoy seeing how your dog reacts when you no longer reward anxiety or excited behaviour, and use it to improve the relationship you have with your dog. Ignore (or briefly correct) what you would rather not see again, and give long, enjoyable attention to the behaviour you want to encourage. Behave like a leader at all times (though it's fine to instigate and end fun or even crazy activities whenever you think it suitable), and understand that we all have perfect dogs—we just need to allow them to be so.

I act this way whenever I walk into the home of a dog I need to help rehabilitate (or when encountering strays)—and usually we get a better-behaved dog immediately, much to the exasperation of the person, who can't believe their dog is refusing to show his or her bad side now the dog-rehab guy is here! Just by ignoring dogs and therefore allowing them to smell me unmolested while I remain aloof, I am able to define our roles as leader and follower, and everything else from then on is easy because of the greater compliance and calmness I get from the dog from the outset, which always amazes the people of the house. Once the people mimic this way of greeting their dog, however, they get the same incredible results themselves—and you can do the same.

Summary

All the lessons pertain to your situation, so follow them all if you have a problem dog, no matter what his or her issue is
When you return home, ignore your dog until he or she is calmer and no longer demanding attention
Being aloof maintains the status quo and your control over your and, consequently, your dog's behaviour
Your dog will love you even more, and in a more secure way
Have others greet your dog the same way

If you have any questions or concerns about any of these lessons, please just leave your comments below and I will respond as soon as I can, and perhaps amend the article accordingly, to address the points you raise. I won't ignore you, I promise.

Be aloof next time you greet your dog, and let me know how it goes.

Cheers!

Seán

Nurturing a Better Dog, Trick No. 4: Lead the Walk!

2011-05-24T02:31:00.006+08:00

(Note: This is going to be a long article, but please do read it through in detail, as this is one of the most important ways to have a happier, healthier, more balanced dog, and a happier life for you.)

Lead the Walk

Are you one of those people who dreads walking your dog because it always involves your dog barreling along the road, dragging you, arm stretched forward, running in a slightly sideways gait, and holding on for dear life, just hoping that your companion canine doesn't do anything embarrassing or dangerous today? If you are, then who can blame you for not taking your dog out as often as you should—for at least three bathroom breaks a day, and for a combined time of at least forty-five minutes, most of which should be on one particularly long walk? But here's the catch: as I mentioned in Trick No. 1, if your dog isn't getting out on a long walk every day, he or she will put all that pent-up energy to bad use.

So, the less you walk your dog, the more out of control he or she becomes, and that means a much more difficult walk. It's a destructive cycle. But don't worry; I'm going to show you how to make your dog walks a pleasure. And we're going to start by making sure you're using the right tool.

The Right Equipment

The vast majority of badly behaved dogs who pull on leash wear the same piece of bad equipment: the harness. A harness straps across the chest, giving your dog the ability to put all his or her weight into dragging you along, while doing nothing to control the head, which is the secret to controlling both a dog and his or her issues. What you should be using is a slip leash, a magical piece of dog-training equipment that is great for both you and the dog. Instead of putting all the pressure on the front of the neck like using a collar does, a slip leash spreads the pressure out, turning it into a gentle squeeze that goes all around the neck—try it on yourself; give a gentle tug backwards or to the side and see that it doesn't choke, but instead applies pressure all around your neck (if the dog keeps pulling and pulling, though, it can choke, so never let your dog pull, and always use a short, gentle tug and immediate release).

A dog has a natural inclination to pay attention when he or she feels pressure on the neck, as this is how a higher-ranking dog will show dominance, by mouthing the lower dog's neck; it's also how a mum dog calms her pups when she picks them up by the scruff and the mild pressure around the neck causes the pups to automatically relax. Make sure you put the slip leash on the dog correctly, with the leash part going from your hand and across the back of the dog's neck and then under, rather than underneath it and then up and over the back. If it goes across the back of the neck first and then under and back on itself, the leash will tighten when tugged but then loosen when relaxed, because the ring can fall; if the leash part goes under the neck first, then the ring won't fall when you relax the leash, and it won't loosen, which will just create tension. (If you walk the dog on your left, imagine holding the leash open in a P shape as you put it over your dog's head; if you walk him or her on your right, imagine a b shape.)

Head Held High

And to get your dog walking next to you without pulling, you simply need to just make sure the slip leash is high up on his or her neck, right up under the jaw and as close to the base of the ears as possible. This prevents your dog being able to move his or her head in any direction, keeping him or her focused on the walk instead; if your dog tries to pull, all that will happen is the head will automatically be lifted, preventing his or her ability to get traction to pull ahead. The difference between having a slip leash high or low is huge, with the former making walks so much easier just by itself. It's particularly effective at encouraging your dog to be more confident, as it helps him or her keep his or her head held high; just as mood effects body language, body language effects mood, so don't let your fearful dog adopt a fearful posture.

The Trick to Taking the Lead

But there are some pretty cool ways to have your dog accept your lead so that you don't need to keep him in check physically, which is of course better all round. Read on to learn a fun trick to teach your dog that he or she should completely forget about trying to walk ahead of you, and instead take his rightful place beside or behind you, never challenging your leadership.

(For brevity, in the rest of the article we will discuss as though the dog will be walked on your left, but if you walk your dog in your right, just reverse all the instructions.)

Keep your dog on your left and the leash loose. You want to have a calm, assertive, confident attitude and body language, and a positive image in your head of how you want the walk to be —expect the walk to be great (dogs read your mind through your body language very easily). But do also be prepared for things to start to go wrong and know how you will deal with them quickly and effectively so that you can get back on track—more about overcoming possible setbacks later.

Now, and throughout the walk, do not look at your dog; this just invites a challenge and shows that you're not being a good leader who would be focusing on the walk, not the dog. Wait until the dog is calm and not demanding to move forward, then give a little tug and start walking. Imagine an invisible line that runs left-right in front of you. As soon as you notice out of the corner of your eye that your dog even tries to pass that line (starts to walk ahead of you), immediately turn right 90 degrees and give him or her a quick but light tug to follow (90 degrees is better because you can easily tug him to the side but not so easily backwards). Stay aloof, but enjoy as your dog realises that the attempt to get ahead immediately put him further behind.

Your dog will catch up and most likely try to overtake once more. Just once again change direction, nonchalantly, 90 degrees to the right, and give a tug. Remember, do not look at your dog when doing this. Keep your shoulders back and your head up, and focus on leading the walk.

Do this again and again and you will soon notice that your dog isn't trying so hard to get ahead. Keep it up. Maintain the positive attitude and ignore the dog. Act aloof. Enjoy yourself. When you get the hang of it and feel more in control, start cutting him or her off to the LEFT; you'll be amazed how your dog starts looking up at you to see what you want him or her to do—or maybe just to admire you as you demonstrate such great leadership. Do a few more right turns, then a few more left, whether your dog tries to take the lead or not.

Stay Relaxed

Apart from when giving a light tug, you want a loose leash throughout—tension in the lead is tension in the leader-follower relationship, and it also enables your dog to test his or her physical strength against yours, so don't do it. Relax your arms, and relax the leash (especially when he or she meets other dogs—but more about that in a later article).

This whole exercise is a mind game. Dogs need a leader. If the leader isn't you, your dog will feel that he or she has to fill the role. By constantly showing your dog that he or she will always be behind you until you say otherwise, he or she will learn that it's his or her place to follow. The only way you can lose this game is to give in. Stay focused on having a perfect walk with you leading and that's what will happen (particularly with dogs, but also as in life, what you think will happen will happen, so keep a positive image in mind).

Your attitude is key, so don't let yourself get frustrated; if you control yourself, you control the situation, and that means you control the dog.

Taking It On the Road

I can fix a bad puller in minutes practicing this technique; it's never failed yet, no matter how big or strong the dog, nor his or her age. It works. If it's not working for you, read the instructions again and see where you're going wrong. It's probably that you're watching the dog, tightening the leash, or imagining it all going wrong—so DON'T!

You can do this exercise in a quiet road or park, where you have space to keep turning when necessary. Once your dog is walking nicely behind or beside you, you can start to walk in a straight line, but keep using tugs upwards and inwards (towards you) as soon as your dog starts to move too far behind, to the left, or ahead. Don't watch the dog; instead, simply feel the direction your wrist is being pulled in and just tug back.

Keep Control

For the first few minutes or so of any walk, while you are establishing leadership, don't let your dog smell the ground, go to anything, or even look at anything. When your dog wants to pee on a tree, keep walking, but allow him to pee at another tree instead. You are in control, and your dog will like that. Once he or she accepts your lead, you can grant more freedom, allowing your dog more of the leash to explore the environment as he or she wants, but never allow your dog to pull (just tug back) and make sure you take the lead again when the situation requires it or when heading home.

Be Prepared

There will always be times when you feel your dog is not accepting your lead or maybe starts to play up, perhaps because he or she is scared or wants to go and investigate something; just accept these incidents as great opportunities to once again demonstrate your leadership, and be prepared for how you will handle them. Here are some suggestions:

1. Just stop and ignore, even if it is fearfulness. Don't go anywhere until your dog is back in a calm state. But do give praise as the dog starts to relax more.

2. Do the change-direction exercise a few more times until your dog has fallen back into line.

3. Give a tug up on the leash and make a short, sharp sound to get your dog's attention, and then just carry on with the walk.

4. Give a touch or make a 'Tsst!' noise to quickly divert your dog's attention back to you.

5. Push your dog's flank (around his upper thigh / waist area). This is a dog way of asserting oneself. You can use your foot if easier. But DO NOT HIT—it's a gentle shove, to put your dog's rear slightly off balance.

Always, don't dwell on the unwanted behaviour; just quickly move on and focus on the good walk ahead, and expect your dog to follow alongside you. Remember to correct the behaviour at the earliest possible opportunity, which may be when your dog even just looks at another dog or a cat.

And be careful not to project your own fears onto your dog—this happens a lot! When you see something that you think maybe a problem, just ignore it, keep your head up and shoulders back, and make sure you are not unconsciously giving your dog a clue that he or she should be prepared for trouble ahead. Control yourself if you want to control of your dog.

Good Dog!

Whenever your dog is walking nicely, give praise or a treat. Speak in high, soft tones, and rub his side (not the head, which can feel like a threat, or the chest, which gets dogs excited). Let your dog know when you're happy with what he or she is doing and you will see more of that behaviour. Just be careful not to raise the excitement level. But dogs love praise, so be sure to tell them when they're doing great.

With your dog's perceived leadership on the walk now relinquished to you, you will start to see a huge improvement in his behaviour, as he or she will realise that it's no longer his (stressful) responsibility to decide what to chase, attack, jump up at, get excited by, or be afraid of. When people start to lead their dog walks, they all report that their dog seems happier, that the walk is far more enjoyable, and that their relationship with their dog seems far more fulfilling. You will enjoy those same benefits; all you have to do is believe it and stay positive.

Summary

Here is a summary of the most important points you need to remember:

Leading the walk is key to controlling your dog's behaviour in other situations.
Use a slip leash, and be sure it is on the right way round and high up under the jaw.
Use light tugs to communicate with your dog.
When your dog tries to walk ahead, just change direction, 90 degrees, with a tug, so he or she is behind you again.
You cannot achieve what you don't first envision; how you perceive the walk to be is key, as your dog can read your body language, so say positive, confident, and calm, and always envision a great walk.
Your dog will accept your lead if you believe it and don't give up.
When demonstrating leadership on the walk, control everything; grant (and take away) more freedom once your dog is following nicely.
Dogs are happier when they have a leader.
Be prepared for opportunities to demonstrate you are a leader.
Correct unwanted behaviour before it even begins.
Do not dwell on mistakes; move on quickly from upsets and get back on track, enjoying a nice, calm, walk with your dog.
Envision a good walk, and do not project your own fears; control yourself and your thoughts and you will control your dog.
Praise lavishly or give a treat whenever your dog is doing well.
Dogs want to relinquish control and their issues to a good leader—remember that.

We will be posting videos of all these techniques very soon, so look out for them.

Now go lead that walk! And be sure to let me know how it goes.

Seán

Nurturing a Better Dog, Trick No. 3: Leaders First!

2011-05-23T17:42:00.007+08:00

This next dog-leadership trick is very simple to explain, but you will need to keep coming back to read it again and again to absorb the details, especially about how to back your dog up away from the door.

Enter New Environments First

When you take your dog for a walk, who goes through the door first: you or your dog? If you have a dog who is a nightmare to walk because he or she pulls like mad, or keeps trying to go for other dogs, or even shows fear at certain things, then you probably allow your dog to go through the door first. So many people tell me the same thing: "Fido is great in the house, but once we get outside, he just becomes difficult to control." If that sounds like your dog—or the opposite: your dog is fine on a walk but out of control in the house—then you're about to learn why.

Whenever you enter a new environment, whether that be going outside or inside, into a vet clinic, into a dog park, through a narrow lane, down the stairs, or even just into your yard or garden, you should lead the way. It's not that canine pack leaders go through doors first (dogs lead other dogs much better than us, and can do so from the middle or the rear just as well as from out front); it's slightly more complicated than that, but much more interesting:

A Leader for all Situations

According to research on abandoned or escaped dogs in Italy, packs tend to have one or two leaders, and it is most often a matriarch who takes on the lead role; however, very often, packs will have a different leader for different circumstances. Whereas the lead female may be in charge around the den, another dog may take the lead when it's time to go and reinforce boundaries, or to see off intruding dogs, or to go looking for food. This is a very efficient way of ensuring the pack is as strong as possible in any situation, since not every leader type is suitable for all situations. The rest of the pack accepts the leader of each situation readily, and harmony reigns because of it.

If you want to demonstrate to your dog that you are the leader in any situation the two (or more) of you proceed into, then the best way is to make sure you go first and with no attempts from your dog to challenge that. If your dog is allowed to go charging out the door, pulling you behind him, every time you go for a walk, then no matter how good he or she is at home, your canine companion will believe that he or she can easily assume the leadership role outside—and not being the best one to make decisions on what you should chase, attack, be scared of, or even bite, your dog will most usually invoke mayhem when seemingly put into that role.

Take Ownership of the Doorway

So, if you want to send a clear signal to your dog that it's your leadership that will dictate how the walk will be (and your aim should be for calm and controlled—more on that in the next lesson), then the solution is simple: take control of your dog before you head out the door, demonstrate leadership by remaining calm and assertive (and aloof), and make sure that you go through the door first while your dog waits for a signal to follow. You then make sure to do the same as you close the door behind you and set off on the walk (though your dog will almost always be 'ahead' of you at this point, he or she will be waiting patiently and without making demands until you are ready to lead the walk.

So how do we get the dog to go along with all this? Do we need to give orders—maybe have the dog sit and stay while we open and walk through the door? No. Giving dogs instructions is not the most powerful way to demonstrate leadership; what's most effective is when your dog works out for him- or herself the best way to show you in his or her own language that he or she accepts you control the door and therefore the walk ahead. If you follow the following guidelines exactly, then this is exactly how your dog will behave. Prepare to be amazed.

How to Lead Through Doors

(Remember: if you read carefully and make sure you follow correctly, this will work; if you need to see it in practice, sit tight for the upcoming videos to accompany this blog series.)

Leading your dog through the door will be much easier if you make him or her come to the leash instead of you chasing your dog to put it on. Just stay calm and stand confidently and quietly near the door until your dog comes to accept the leash (I know this will be impossible at first for many dogs, in which case, approach and leash your dog with the minimum of fuss). You may give the command for him to come to you if you want to, but only once—never incessantly. When your dog lets you leash him or her in this way, it's as good a signal as any that he or she is willing to submit to your leadership.

Lead your dog to the door. If he or she tries to dart ahead of you and put his or her nose near the door waiting for it to open or starts to try and scratch at the door, you need to step in and take 'ownership' of the door. Step in between the dog and the door, using the leash if you have to, giving tugs to make the dog back away to give you space to step in. Once there is enough space, loosen the leash and step into your dog, as though you want to walk into his floor space, in a calm, assertive manner, with a confident body posture and perhaps an 'Ah!' or 'Eh!' grunt as you do so. Do not do anything else that you think will demonstrate dominance, such as shouting, giving commands, being angry, raising the tone of your voice, etc., as it will likely be something that will actually tell the dog you are not really in control. If you like, raise a finger in front of you in a 'Don't even try it' kind of manner. This helps you feel dominant while also putting something above your dog's head, which will make him feel he has a superior above him or her. You can also tap (briefly push) his chest with your fingers in a kind of 'bite' action—gentle but firm, as though to guide.

Accepting the New Dynamic

Your dog will back away from the door, probably look confused at this new behaviour from you, and sit down. At the very least, he or she will stand and wait for your next move. You will open the door next, but first you must be prepared for your dog to try and dart through as you open it; know what you will do to counter this (exactly the same as you did to back the dog up in the first place, but with a very serious look on your face, and more stern body language, as if to say 'You are pushing your luck.' This will not make the dog scared of you, but will make him or her respect you more. Back him or her up again, and, while being prepared to step in again if you have to, know that, this time, your dog will stay in place, politely waiting to see what you want him or her to do. Dogs generally accept new leadership instantly and without question, and that is how we can achieve rapid change in a dog so quickly.

You should now be standing between your dog and the door, sideways on, so you can see both the door and the dog and are not blocking the doorway—this is very important, as you want the dog to stay in place because of respect for your new leadership and not because of a physical block. Open the door. Step in and back the dog up again in the same manner as last time if you have to, though by this stage you should find, to your amazement, that he will look at the open doorway and then you and back again, in turn, as he awaits your instruction. Walk through the door, prepared to back your dog up if necessary, but you should be able to just give a gentle tug and a command to come as you walk through the doorway ahead of him or her. If possible, wait until your dog looks away before inviting him or her through, as this ensures your canine companion isn't 'commanding' you or pleading to be able to go through, which would give him perceived status if that's then what happened.

Entering a New Situation

Get ready to control your dog once through the doorway, as he or she may think that it's OK to run ahead at this point. Simply give gentle tugs while ignoring the dog and remaining aloof as you wait for him or her to calm down once more. Close the door, and, once your dog is relaxed and not trying to make you do anything, head off on the walk, giving your dog a gentle tug as a signal to follow alongside. Remember, we always tug and immediately relax, as this prevents tension in the leash (and therefore the relationship) and gives the dog nothing lasting to resist. Give lots of praise (or a treat) as you set off, letting your dog know that he or she pleased you by accepting your leadership.

After a few times practicing this properly, you will have it down to pat, and your dog will understand the new procedure too. Never lose your temper or plead with your dog, and do not add anything else that you think may help. You want to keep everything simple while demonstrating control—of yourself first, then the situation and your dog. Follow this procedure when entering any new territory, environment, or situation, and you will be letting your dog know in no uncertain terms that your will shall dominate still and not your dog and his fears, excitement, or other issues that need to be kept under control. This simple technique, practiced at every possible opportunity, helps your dog to understand the new hierarchy. Don't feel sorry for him; it's hell trying to lead when you have know idea how to, and your dog will be happy to relinquish all that stress to you.

Summary

To recap the important points:

You must go through doors first
Dogs have different leaders for different situations
If the dog is allowed to lunge through first, he or she will think that he or she can lead in the new environment
A dog can be controlled by his or her issues, so if you don't lead, your dog and his or her problems will
Dogs accept new leadership readily
Stay calm, assertive, and aloof when demonstrating leadership
Have the dog come to the leash, not you go to the dog
Try to back your dog up with posture and a dominant attitude rather than physical force
Tug, not pull; tap, not push
Be prepared to respond to challenges
Invite your dog through only when he or she is calm and not demanding
Reward your dog for doing well
Enjoy your new role as leader!

The next lesson will be on how to have your dog walking beautifully on leash, beside or behind you, never pulling, further enhancing the relationship between the two of you, and making walks a complete pleasure. So stay tuned! And be sure to post comments or questions, and please share this series with your friends.

Enjoy going first!

Seán

Nurturing a Better Dog, Trick No. 2: Attention!

2011-05-18T09:38:00.009+08:00

Attention, All Dog Caregivers!

Dogs, just like people, crave attention. It's one of the least obvious but most powerful rewards for encouraging the kind of behaviour you want to see again and again. Ignore a child and eventually he or she will start exploring ways to get some attention from you, and if that means being naughty just to get a reaction from you, that is what he or she will continue to do. We see so many kids who have learned bad behaviour just because it got them some kind of attention. These kinds of children likewise don't get enough attention when they're being good. Yet we blame them and punish them more and more (giving yet more attention!) as they keep repeating the behaviour that we have unwittingly encouraged. And so often we do exactly the same—or worse—with our dogs.

There are many rewards we can use to encourage certain behaviours in dogs, from treats to belly rubs, praise to excited chatter, walks to playtime. But it's that oft-overlooked reward of attention that brings out most behaviours simply because we give it without even thinking—and that's why it's a leading cause of dog problems; we're not being careful about what we give most attention to.

Here's a great dog-behaviour trick: give your dog attention whenever he or she shows a behaviour you want to see more of and ignore (or briefly correct) those which you don't. Pretty simple, huh? And pretty much common sense too. And yet we so often forget to put this into practice.

Be Very Careful What You Give Attention to and What You Ignore

Here's a typical example, one I encounter so often when helping people rehabilitate their dogs: A dog keeps jumping up on guests when they walk in the door, so I ask the person how he or she responds to that, and the reply is that they will shout at the dog, continuously push the dog down, repeat a command to the dog, or walk the dog into another room and close the door. I then ask what they do when the guest is now in the house and the dog has calmed down, and most often the response is that they whisper to their guest to please ignore the dog while he or she is being quiet so as not to evoke more excited behaviour. They have been doing the complete opposite of what they should do to encourage the dog to be calm when visitors come!

Turning Fear into Confidence

Another important example of how to use attention, which may seem difficult to comprehend and much more difficult to put into practice, but which has an instant, profound effect, is when dealing with fearful dogs: A dog may be terrified, for example, of other people when out walking; whenever someone nears or even approaches from afar, the dog starts to back away, pull at the leash, panic, thrash, and do all he or she can to avoid that man or woman. Often, the person on the other end of the leash then starts to talk calmly to the dog, trying to reassure or reason with him or her, speaking in soft, reassuring tones, repeating "It's OK. It's OK." again and again. Yet while the dog is walking happily beside them, they do and say nothing. Without realizing it, they have been encouraging the fearful behaviour while failing to encourage calmness. Yes, that's really all it is!

When I work with these dogs, I ask the person to not do or say (and try not to think about) anything while I calmly and confidently—and literally—take the lead. The dog always freaks out having me so close at first, yet I do nothing more than focus on the walk ahead and give a gentle tug on the leash to get the dog moving forward (a tug involves a quick but gentle pull and immediate release; we don't keep pulling on the leash, as this just maintains tension and invites resistance). While the dog is acting fearful, I ignore as much as possible and maintain a calm, assertive air—in fact, I act aloof, regal, like a leader who expects others to follow. As if by magic, the dog, craving a strong, fair leader to lead him or her through the terrifying ordeal, will choose to come and walk by my side, much to the disbelief of the person, who has never seen their dog choose to approach a stranger before. It gets even better:

Demonstrate Calm Assertiveness

We then walk, with me saying nice, soothing things to the dog while he or she behaves more and more like a happy, confident dog, but still focusing on the good walk ahead. I give a gentle tug without looking whenever the dog starts to think about pulling away, but never look at them, because that's not only attention, but also another invitation to challenge your leadership. When people approach, I anticipate the dog's behaviour and give a gentle tug upwards and towards me together with a firm 'Ah!' or 'Eh!' sound, which, to every dog, means 'Stop it' (those of you who speak Chinese, use the fourth tone; to everyone else, imagine stamping your foot as you say it, which will help you get he correct, short, sharp, deep, falling tone—other tones sound weak to a dog). I sometimes have to put my foot behind the dog to prevent him or her backing away, and may then put the dog in a sit position while the stranger walks past. Any behaviour that is a step towards calm acceptance is rewarded with kind words or a stroke; any time the dog's fear tries to take over, a gentle tug and a serious 'Ah!' or 'Eh!' is used. By doing this just a few times, the dog will start to accept people walking close by, and most often I can have the dog approaching people by his or her own accord simply by sitting down and ignoring the little guy or gal while he or she explores her new-found confidence.

How can we get such an incredible result so rapidly? We simply gave attention (with long, higher-pitched chatter) to the desired behaviour but ignored as much as possible, or gave abrupt, gentle corrections, with short, deep, serious grunts to those behaviours we wanted to stop. Dogs accept new leadership instantly, and they respond incredibly well to attention, and this is how we can achieve this life-changing, seemingly miraculous change in behaviour so quickly. It's a sad realization for the person that their kindness at the wrong times was actually causing fear and unhappiness in their dog. And it's not easy to change; I realize that. But if you want to help your dog, you must overcome your own need to show attention and affection when your dog is going through uncertainty and fear.

Apply the Magic of Attention to Anything!

This same technique works great for preventing all manner of bad behaviours, and can be adapted for all situations. For the dog jumping up on visitors, for instance, calm, gentle, lengthy attention should be given to the dog when he or she is quiet, and the jumping up should be deterred simply by having your guests completely ignore the dog (don't look, touch, or talk, and, in fact, have them behave aloof, as though the dog weren't there), and asking them to just turn away should the dog still try to paw them (don't use hands in any way, including pulling them away, as this just initiates play). Get your guests to give nice attention to the dog as soon as he or she calms down and have them stand up and turn away as soon as the dog tries tries to lift his or her paws off the ground. It works like magic. Try it.

Conclusion

I'll share with you the very best advice I have ever heard, not just for fixing problem behaviour in dogs, but for achieving greater success and happiness in life too: Whenever something keeps happening that you don't like, tell yourself "That's my fault" and ask yourself "What have I been doing to reward that behaviour?" More than likely, you have been unwittingly encouraging your dog to behave that way. Think hard about that. Be honest. Identify where you went wrong, adjust your actions accordingly, using attention and corrections or ignoring at the appropriate times, and watch how the problem disappears.

Now go and give some nice, calm, loving attention to your dog—but only if he or she is being good, calm, or quiet. And ignore or briefly correct excited, demanding, or other unwanted behaviour. And let me know how it goes; I look forward to hearing about the amazing changes you bring about in your own dog. You will be amazed.

Seán

(Remember, I will be demonstrating all these techniques in a series of videos to accompany these lessons, so look out for those later.)

Nurturing a Better Dog, Trick No. 1: Walking!

2011-05-16T20:18:00.007+08:00

Walk It Off

For most people with dog problems, the answer is simple: more exercise. "That's it?" you ask. "Very often," I reply. One of the biggest mistakes people make with dogs is that they believe a dog needs a big home with a large yard to run around in. I often hear this as an excuse as to why someone can't adopt a dog from me: "I only live in a small apartment; it wouldn't be fair to the dog." But the happiest dogs aren't the ones with the stress of having to 'protect' a large 'den'; nor are they the ones who get confined to the yard almost every day because their person thinks he's lucky to have such a big space to run around in.

No, the happiest, most balanced dogs are those with a small space to call their own, and at least forty-five minutes of walking every day. Yes, forty-five minutes. That can be broken up into several shorter walks (as it should if your dog can only take bathroom breaks outside, as they need at least three a day, and more if younger than eight months). But it is far better to make one of the walks a long one—better for the dog, and better for you too, as your dog will be able to release so much mental and physical energy in an acceptable manner. In fact, none of the following lessons will be able to help you if you're not providing your dog with enough daily exercise.

Unmet Needs

Dogs have a natural urge to explore just beyond their territory, to smell who may have passed by recently, to enjoy that forward momentum, to satisfy that desire to know what is 'out there', and to cement that bond he wants to have with you as only an on-leash walk can do. The more cooped-up a dog is kept, the more pent-up he will become, and with all that excess energy not being burned off in a healthy way, it will start to be released in ways that you would rather not experience: destructive behaviour, barking, nervousness, or even aggression. It's no coincidence that, of my own pack, the only dogs who bark when they hear noises outside are the crippled ones, who just don't get as many energy-releasing, stimulating, satisfying walks as my other dogs. In my neighbourhood, the dogs that bark incessantly or snap and snarl at passers-by are the ones who have the 'luxury' of a yard but don't get to go on walks.

Imagine if you weren't allowed to wander beyond your four walls, or even beyond your garden or yard. Imagine how stressed and frustrated you would start to feel if you never got to experience life outside your home. You would sink into some form of undesirable behaviour, either looking for ways to release that energy or get that stimulation, or shutting down and heading towards depression. Your dog is no different. He or she needs a good walk every day with his pack leader by his side to feel fulfilled and happy. Other forms of exercise, such as playing ball or tugging rope, all help your dog to release energy, but none compare in effectiveness to a long, tiring, controlled walk.

A dog who usually shows anxiety or barks when left alone will benefit from a long, tiring walk beforehand. A dog who tends to be overly boisterous or even aggressive will calm down much more if that energy is exhausted. A tired dog is a good dog. Even a nervous dog will calm right down after a long walk. And all these behaviours improve greatly over time the more walks the dog gets.

Controlling the Issues

But the walk must be, for the most part, on leash. This is because, if you want to control your dog's bad behaviour, you must first control your dog (and, above that, control yourself, including your thoughts on the matter, your body language, and your mood). Also, if you walk your dog the right way, it not only reinforces your status as pack leader, but defines what the pack (often just you and your dog) will pay attention to, chase, bark at, be scared of, attack, etc. A dog who is prevented from chasing other dogs because he or she is on leash will, after a while, be cured of that issue, as that behaviour will have been deterred, both through clear instruction on what is acceptable and because the addiction is weakened by a lack of regular 'fix', which is the buzz reward they get from initiating a chase. The same can be said for all manner of behaviours, even fearfulness.

Now, the usual catch 22 here is that, for many people with a problem dog, walking is a nightmare, as the dog will pull all the time or be forever trying to jump up at people, or run away from cars, or bark at passing dogs. But that will no longer be an issue, because several of the upcoming lessons will be all about getting your dog to walk nicely every single time you go for a walk--like a show-dog, right by your side, happily ignoring all distractions and visibly enjoying this new, relaxed, controlled way of walking. Don't believe it? You have to. It works. You will see.

Good For You Too

A daily walk has been proven to be the one of the keys to happiness, health, and longevity, and a great stress buster. While you may have been looking at the dog walk as a chore that you'd much rather forgo, you should now start regarding it as a blessing—a gift that your dog presents to you every single day, getting you out in fresh air, moving those legs and arms, getting air in your lungs, and leaving the pressures of the day behind. And it's free! Once he or she is walking nicely beside you, I guarantee that, no matter how much you don't look forward to that little bit of exercise, you will learn to enjoy the walk as well as feel much better after it—especially as you start to see the relationship between you and your dog greatly improving. Many people say they feel much closer and have a far more rewarding relationship with their dog when they walk him or her more.

So, glance away from your computer screen now and look at your dog. What would he or she love to do right now? And how lucky are you that this daily duty is also what is most likely to improve your dog's behaviour and your own health and happiness? So grab the leash, smile at your canine companion, and go for a longer walk than you usually do. By doing this, you'll be taking huge steps towards a much better-behaved dog. By not taking your dog on a long walk every day, you are depriving yourself of one of the easiest and most beneficial ways to improve the life you share with your four-legged friend. So get out there!

Happy walking!

Seán

(Remember: lessons on getting your dog to walk nicely are coming right up, so stay tuned!)

Ten Tricks for Nurturing a Better Dog

2011-05-15T22:09:00.010+08:00

Overcoming Behavioural Issues

Starting today, I will be posting a series of tricks for getting a better behaved dog. Whatever your dog's issue, be it for example fearfulness, aggression, obsessive behaviour, pulling on the leash, barking, or destructiveness, there are ten simple measures you can take to overcome them. Some are basic necessities for getting the best out of your dog; others deal with demonstrating to your dog that you are the leader and therefore the one to say which behaviours are acceptable and which are not. Although the principles are simple, the results of applying them, you will find, are nothing short of miraculous.

Leadership is all about being calm and assertive and showing confident body language and a serious tone of voice when unwanted behaviour needs to be corrected; at other times, when the emphasis is on encouraging a certain behaviour, then a more open posture and encouraging tone is required. There is never a place for shouting or hitting or violent handling, as these will only make your dog scared of you and more than likely create a whole new set of unwanted behaviours. The emphasis is on letting your dog know what is and isn't wanted, in a fair, controlled manner.

Rapid Change

Dogs learn very easily. Unfortunately, we're not always aware of what we are teaching them. So often when I am called in to rehabilitate a dog with severe behavioural issues it is clear that the people have unwittingly encouraged the very behaviour they want to stop while also unknowingly discouraging the good behaviour. We'll learn how to turn that around to help your dog understand just what is wanted of him or her.

The good news is that dogs accept new leadership and their new position in the hierarchy instantly, so you'll find that many of your dog's behavioural problems can be eradicated very quickly; as soon as you start behaving like a good leader, your dog will start to follow. The vast majority of dogs are happy to take on the role of follower and relinquish their perceived leadership role and all the stresses and anxieties that go with it. Understand and accept, though, that dogs will test leadership every day—not out of disrespect or to make you annoyed, but because it's in a dog's nature to ensure the pack structure is still solid and the leadership is strong; if it's not, a new leader must rise to the role, and this is when issues begin to arise, as most dogs just aren't cut out to lead, and will therefore make a real bad job of deciding what to bark at, be afraid of, chase, or attack. Be consistent with your rules and your dog will happily follow them; start to slack and watch as your dog tests the boundaries more and more or even start to think he or she is once again in charge.

It's no coincidence that the most nervous dogs belong to the kindest people, simply because they have been reluctant to be strict with their dog when he or she most needed it, even if that meant correcting fearful behaviour. Some people think that their dogs won't love them any more if they start correcting unwanted behaviour or demonstrate leadership in other ways, but this couldn't be further from the reality. Dogs need a calm, assertive leader in order to feel secure; when I go and put a slip leash on a fearful or anxious dog and do nothing more than refuse, with gentle tugs, to let that dog pull away from me, what happens next always surprises the person: that dog will stop trying to pull away and will instead come towards me, usually climbing onto my lap for a hug if I am sitting on the floor. This is because I have provided that dog with something the person hadn't: calm, assertive leadership. It's when they witness their dog going to cuddle a stranger for the first time ever that the people realise how real kindness comes from providing a dog with his or her needs, even if it goes against our instinct.

And that's what pack leadership is all about: changing our instinctual reactions to our dogs' behaviour so that we can show them in their own language who is the leader and just what is expected of them. Whenever I rehabilitate a dog, I am actually just helping the person change the way their dog perceives them. They learn to be assertive at the right times, but also to be loving, fun, excited, or relaxed at the right times too.

You Can Do This

So, get ready to start the course. This is based on the exact same lessons I give people who have asked me to help fix their dog's problems. Some can take these lessons, instantly comprehend the changes they need to make, and bring about instant improvement in their dog's behaviour all by themselves. That's what I'm hoping you will do, and I encourage you to post comments on your progress, or ask questions so that I can improve the lessons for yours and others' benefit. Some need to see the lessons put into practice, so I will be adding videos of the techniques later. Yet others believe that their own dog is special, that these techniques can't possibly work on their Fido, and give all manner of excuses as to why these methods simply won't work; for those people, I am happy to come show you, on your own dog, for a small fee, and my guarantee is that you pay nothing if you don't see an incredible difference in your dog's behaviour when I apply these lessons—I have yet to not get paid. These methods work. But you must believe it to see it for yourself.

Whatever your dog's issues, realize that they are fixable. When people asked Michelangelo how he managed to create such stunning sculptures from blocks of stone, his answer surprised them: he didn't need to create anything; he just chiseled away to release the beautiful piece that he knew was already inside. And that's all you have to do. Your dog is a good dog waiting to happen. You really aren't trying to achieve the impossible here; a well-behaved dog is in there, and all you have to do remove the obstacles that have so far kept him or her from showing you that. Your dog is a reflection of you; be a good leader, and your dog will be a good follower. We can all lead; I will show you how.

Relax and Enjoy

But don't expect 'perfection'; allow for your dog's individuality, especially when it comes to things like sociability or energy level. My own dogs know very little in the way of commands, other than 'come' and 'leave it', which are for their own safety. I like that they show their own character, and I don't enjoy seeing dogs whose every movement or will is controlled by the person caring for them. You and your dog will be happier if you don't give the impression that you control everything; instead, provide guidance as to what is not acceptable and allow your dog to be him- or herself within those boundaries.

So, enjoy the coming lessons. Practice them with your own dog. Post in the comments if you have any questions or setbacks or need anything explained better, and I will amend the posts accordingly. Posts will often be edited, so check back often or set it up so that you receive updates.

A happier relationship with your dog awaits you!

Seán

The Taiwan SPCA

2009-09-25T05:47:00.002+08:00

Dear all,

Myself and a lady called Connie Chiang have now started the Taiwan SPCA on a mission to improve the welfare of animals in Taiwan. Please follow us at the link above. The blog is updated often with life-saving tips about your animals, animal-welfare news, upcoming events, rescue stories, and adoptions.

We are also on Twitter @TaiwanSPCA and have a Facebook fan page: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Taipei-Taiwan/Taiwan-SPCA/149123754312

We look forward to sharing your support, and in showing how we are making a difference preventing the suffering of animals on this island we call home.

See you there!

Sean

And I'm BACK!

2009-04-21T16:48:00.002+08:00

OK, so I got so into relaxing on my last few weeks in Central America that I neglected to update the blog - sorry about that! But I'm back now. And I'm back in Taiwan. I'll keep this blog updated with all the news and stories of the day as well as a few of my opinions on certain matters and, of course, photos.

Some pics might disappear from earlier posts, as I will no longer be keeping my pBase online photo storage account open, and so those links will likely disappear. I'll try to fix any missing pics as I go along.

Anyway, for now, I'm busy with some editing and writing work, and also starting up Taiwan SPCA, that is, the Taiwan Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. The website should be up in a few weeks, and will be improved upon greatly as we go.

OK, must get back to work. More news and stories later.

Cheers!

Sean

Updated Backlog

2008-03-17T02:14:00.003+08:00

I just updated my blog; go down to check out the entries for February 23, 24 and 26 below. ;-)

Quick Update with More to Come

2008-03-07T00:43:00.003+08:00

Hi, all. And a special hello to Tom Kedwell, who I know enjoys reading this blog with his dad, Leigh.

It's been a couple of weeks since my last blog entry, and that's because it's been such a whirlwind of activity that I've simply not had time to put fingers to keyboard for this.

Since my last entry, I've explored the many unique towns and villages on the shores of Lake Atitlan, returned to Antigua once more, endured several hot and bumpy bus rides, turned 40 in one of the most beautiful places I have ever encountered, been spelunking (Tom, help Dad with that big word), swung over a river, gone inner-tubing, jumped off a bridge, swam in limestone pools, explored a cave behind a waterfall, heard the worst bonfire stories ever, taken part in a chicken-bus rebellion, swam in a lake, and somehow ended up with a bunk in an apparently all-girls' dorm.

I've also helped get a rescued husky in Taiwan into a new home in Canada (thanks to the generosity of some wonderful people, we easily raised enough money for his flight), and part of the reason for me being so busy of late is that I've been helping with getting some of the other dogs at the Animals Taiwan holding centre into new homes - big thanks also to Brandy, who runs the holding centre and who has been juggling pressure and sticking to priorities so that more animals could be helped.

I am just creating some adoption flyers for four of the newest and youngest Animals Taiwan rescues, including one beautiful young girl with only three legs. If you would like to help distribute these flyers, please email me (my address is listed in my profile) and I will send you the posters and some advice on how to get them noticed. I have them in English or Chinese, and we will focus on rehoming them in Taiwan first. If enough of these posters go up all over the place, we will have four new adoptions in no time. You can join in to help make this happen. (We will happily and gratefully ship these beautiful animals to good homes abroad if need be, but we don't focus on finding homes overseas.)

For now, I have to finish working on those posters and writing up my blog entries, so keep checking in over the coming days. I'm heading into Mexico tomorrow, so expect a very different landscape from my blog for a couple of weeks.

Hasta luego!

Sean

The Road to Semuc Champey

2008-03-02T05:26:00.000+08:00

I stayed a few nights at the Iguana Perdido in Santa Cruz and would have stayed longer in this fun place but didn’t want to spend my 40th birthday attending their weekly, Saturday night cross-dressing party. I’d decided that perhaps it would be more fun to catch up with some friends in Antigua, and I headed that way, but then had second thoughts and finally settled for the natural and unique location of Semuc Champey, which was also on the way to my main destinations, the Mayan ruins of Tikal and the ARCAS wildlife rescue centre just across the lake from Flores.

The early-morning shuttle bus was 45 minutes late, but, thankfully, this time I was the last one to board. I could have had breakfast after all. The drive to Guatemala City was uneventful, though I was fascinated to find myself looking out the window at one of the most violent cities in the world. Every year, 6000 people are murdered here—that’s 200 of every 100,000. The big news in all the media recently has been the hijacking of public buses and killing of their drivers for the money they’re carrying. Thankfully, we experienced none of that.

In Guatemala (locals tend to drop the City when talking about the capital), I transferred to a local bus—not a chicken bus, thankfully, but a premier class bus that provided comfy, reclining seats and a strange cartoon movie. As we headed off, refreshments were offered for sale by a dirty looking vendor carrying a wooden tray of crisps and soft drinks up and down the aisle before alighting to race back and ply his trade on the next coach to leave the station.

The ride to Coban was uneventful, but the scenery, as always no matter where you go in Guatemala, ranged from strange to stunning, with many brief insights into local life speeding past my window. I was lucky enough to get a quick transfer in an overly crowded minibus that soon hit the bumpy gravel roads that signalled our forthcoming arrival at the tranquil village of Lanquin.

I had avoided touts’ suggestions for other accommodations because I had my sights set on a place that was fairly new but already the talk of the backpacker crowd: El Retiro, a riverside hostal comprised of stilt-top wooden huts that descended toward a fast-moving but pristine river and a thatched restaurant and bar that drew you in with the sight of hammocks and large friendly tables, the sound of cool, laid-back music, and the delicious smell of home cooking that wafted out the open sides as dinnertime approached.

I settled into my dorm then headed past a tidbit-scratching hen and her mimicking chicks to the bar, to make some new friends and meet up with recent ones from previous destinations whom I was certain would also be drawn to this beautiful locale. The people I bunked with in San Pedro were there, as well as some Israeli girls I had met there, and also a guy from Johnny’s bar in Monterrico. The place filled up as dinner was served, and word got around that I would turn 40 at midnight; I was made to feel like an old friend by everyone present and enjoyed a customary free shooter from the Dutch barmaid, Marloes, who also generously joined me in several more in a matter of minutes.

The evening ended around a bonfire, which was surprisingly quiet when I took my place on the relatively cold and damp grass that circled the glowing embers and flames. I suggested bonfire stories, and someone else elected Sam, a permanently smiling young guy from Oregon, I believe, who had already earned himself a name as a bit of an entertainer. But Sam’s mind had been dulled by something in the air, and he struggled to think of a bonfire story to tell.

“Well, there was this one time when a friend and I had lit a fire, and we somehow decided it would be a good idea to see if we could jump over, and when it came to my turn, I didn’t clear it and fell in and got burned.”

The audience eyed each other. It was suggested Sam tell another bonfire story.

“OK, well, there was also this time when my buddies and I were throwing things in a fire for fun, and someone accidentally threw in an aerosol, and it blew up, and nearly killed us all.”

We looked to each other again. No one else wanted to say it, so I did: “Sam, I don’t think it has to actually be about a bonfire, dude!”

Sam saw the funny side and went back to silently enjoying the amber lightshow, so I offered to tell an embarrassing teaching story about small teeth, and another that my friend Nat and I just call ‘the Anne story’, and both raised a few cringes and laughs. I thought I‘d trumped Sam, but that was my one and only victory, because we met up again several days later, and Sam would prove himself to be one of the funniest people I’ve ever met.

Anyway, I eventually hit the sack about 1.00 am, happy in the knowledge that I would be spending my 40th birthday in one of the most stunning places in the world, in what should prove to be an action- and fun-packed day, amongst some great people.

Jaibalito

2008-02-27T06:36:00.001+08:00

Not much to report here; I think the photos should explain why I loved this place so much but couldn’t afford to stay more than one night. The hotel’s called La Casa del Mundo, and I can highly recommend it for the super relaxed and romantic ambience, the friendly service, great food, and stunning views.

Help Send Suka to Canada

2008-02-25T01:22:00.003+08:00

Please read here: http://suka.chipin.com/sukas-flight-to-canada

Hippy Mayan New Year

2008-02-24T23:50:00.001+08:00

San Marcos is known as a bit of a draw for the new-age traveller, so I wasn’t surprised to see signs all over offering everything from yoga to meditation to healing massage to lessons in reiki to accommodations in the shape of pyramids with their four points coinciding with those of the compass. Long hair, wispy tie-dye, and bare feet was the dress code, apparently, and shaving was frowned upon, for either sex. Rooms were cheap, food was healthy, and the atmosphere one of quiet contemplation. I actually liked it.

In the mornings, I swam and sunbathed off the rocks that cascaded into the clear, calm water that lapped the shore, and spent my afternoons downing strawberry liquados and tofu burgers.

While in Blind Lemon's one afternoon, drinking a strawberry liquado and scoffing down a large and delicious veggie burger, I heard the haunting sound of a single, wailing voice accompanied at times by a chanting crowd. As the singing approached, I was delighted to see a procession coming my way, consisting of a large group of locals, the women in matching purple traditional dress, the men bearing on their shoulders a statue of Jesus carrying a cross. They solemnly wound their way around the lane before turning right and disappearing up the hill, the voices still resounding. I managed to steal a few shots as the parade went away.

It wasn't to be the only religious event I would witness that day: While exploring the narrow lanes that lead to everywhere worth going to, I came across an English girl, Clare, who talked me into attending a special ceremony taking place on a nearby hilltop to celebrate the eve of the Mayan new year. How could I say no? We trekked up the rocky path and soon stumbled across the bonfire ringed by Mayan priests and new-age travellers who were focused on the flames as they listened to each other make speeches that were translated for the rest of us by a greying lady in ankle-length tie-dye with matching bandana.

The onlookers were taking the event very seriously, but I became more fascinated by the fireflies that flashed like neon beacons in the grass and trees around the semi-meditative crowd. I was impressed when, at one point, one of the priests talked about the importance and benefit of having canine companions and, as he spoke, a dog walked out of the darkness and stood by his side as though to press the point. The priest seemed tickled too.

One seemingly very important priest, who had fasted for five days to protect us from the evils that abound during the shortest month that marks the end of the Mayan calendar, lectured the audience on the rituals that should accompany the coming of a new year. He suggested cutting one’s hair, shaving, and taking a shower to mark this important new beginning—not unwise words given the audience.

I took some photos, contemplated life, the universe, and everything, and decided to leave as the random bongo-banging reached a crescendo and the crowd were being encouraged to make a donation before joining in a holding-of-hands that I knew was bound to precipitate a group hug.

The next day, I shaved and showered, and even brushed my teeth.

Lovely, Laid-Back, Lakeside Life

2008-02-24T01:51:00.001+08:00

The last time I came to Guatemala, about thirteen years ago, I came to Lake Atitlan but only stayed at Panajachel for one night. I thought I’d seen the best of the area, as Pana, as the locals call it, is the most visited town on the lake. But I had missed the point: Lake Atitlan’s draw is it’s calming tranquility, and I wasn’t going to find that in its busiest town. So I was kind of happy this time to be forced to try some of the other villages that nestled lakeside in the volcanoes’ shadow.

We arrived in San Pedro just as the sun was going down only to endure a 30-minute, backpack-laden hike to a meet up with some friends of Mitchell’s in a quiet guest house that boasted some of the cheapest accommodation in Guatemala. It was my first time trying out dormitory life on this trip, and it was good; staying in a room with several other people is a great way to widen one’s circle. Together, a group of about eight of us explored the town, which, for the most part, consisted of a necklace of very cool, very pretty bars and restaurants that line the paved path which weaves its way through the quiet town. A bitter-sweet aroma permeated the air, its source revealed as we hustled past large plastic sheets filled with drying coffee beans and mounds of exhausted and now moldy husks.

I liked San Pedro. There were cafes and restaurants I could happily have stayed in for days, with colourful furnishings, natural settings, music to lounge to, and some fantastic vegetarian food. I stayed two nights, and spent most of my time relaxing in D’Noz, a popular dockside restaurant that offered not only free wireless Internet, but Marmite sandwiches to boot. Canoeists quietly paddled the water beyond my laptop screen, while lancha pilots called out their destination to beckon stragglers to board. There was no room for improvement; I had found my paradise.

I have learned from my travels so far that, no matter how much I like a place and want to stay, there is a destination just down the road that will please me just as much while also offering something a little different. But still I was quite sad the morning I decided to head out. I sat on D’Noz balcony and enjoyed the lake view, the breeze, and a flurry of cheeky sparrows who came one by one to take advantage of a bowl of sugar that was lacking a secure lid. I bade them farewell as I finished my breakfast and limonada and traipsed downstairs to the dock to haggle a ride to San Marcos, known to be the hippiest of hangouts on the lake.

Far from the Madding Crowd

2008-02-22T08:03:00.010+08:00

I caught the 6.00 am shuttle that took me and my fellow travellers on a rolling, windy road through the Western Highlands before finally descending toward the magical and mystical Lake Atitlan. Looked down upon by a ring of mountains and volcanoes, Atitlan is one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, and yields ample crops of coffee beans and corn around its fertile shores. Native Guatemalans who populate the lakeside and mountain villages maintain a mixture of Catholic and traditional Mayan customs, and many, particularly the women, still adorn themselves in traditional, richly textile costumes. The air is clean, the lake usually clear and calm, and the atmosphere one of intoxicating relaxation.

We pulled into Panajachel, the largest town on the lake, and I set about finding a cheap but comfortable hotel room and exploring the cafes and shops that lined the road leading to and along the lakeside. Panajachel was once a hippy hangout, and therefore--luckily for me--healthy, organic, vegetarian fare was easy to find, so I settled into a colourful roadside cafe and studied my guidebook over an extremely refreshing limonada.

I got talking to a British woman, Susan, who had family in my hometown of Folkestone, and I struggled to put faces to some of the relatives she named. Then she asked if I'd heard about the violent disturbances in Solola, a popular market village about 10 kilometers away over the mountains. I had heard something, but Susan filled me in on the details: apparently, four kidnappers were caught by the police there, but the locals, tired of a corrupt legal system that doesn't protect them or their children from criminals with connections, stormed the police station, wanting to lynch the accused. The police managed to contain the trouble but not the discontent, which was threatening to spill over to the neighbouring town, Panajachel, as the kidnappers were to be transferred to a jail there today. Rumours were milling among the maddening mob that the criminals were to receive a light sentence, and frustrations manifested themselves in violence once more. The word on the street was that we were to be vigilant and stay well away from the town centre.

As Susan escorted me to a cafe with wireless Internet connection, someone shouted out to me from a roadside cafe; it was Matt, the Canadian guy I had also bumped into I Antigua and Monterrico, again! I said a quick hello, promised to email some photos, and carried on towards the Wifi cafe. As I sat there, checking on my email, I noticed that people were starting to vacate the building and store owners were hurriedly pulling down the steel shutters. Mitchell, a Los Angelesean I had chatted to many times in Antigua, walked in, and I explained we may have cause for concern here. Susan came back to explain that trouble may be on its way, and as we walked out onto the street, a large convoy of police vehicles underlined her point. The corner, usually a-bustle with buses and passengers, was eerily abandoned.

As we walked back towards the lake, life seemed to be carrying on as normal, so we wondered whether we really needed to be so concerned. Mitchell headed off to his hotel and I remained wandering around the streets, but the atmosphere was clearly changing. I noticed that almost everyone seemed to be crowding around radios that were blaring out news reports of the approaching and potentially violent demonstration. An oldish man in a brown shirt ran down from the town centre signalling that people should leave, and vendors hurriedly put away their wares and began closing up shop and bringing down the shutters. Some foreigners I spoke to uttered that we should all return to our hotels and stay put as they hurried past to flag down a taxi or tuk-tuk.

There was a definite tension in the air when Mitchell returned. A couple of restaurant workers told us that probably nothing would happen, but we should keep our wits about us; other expats told us that we should really hole ourselves up in our hotels as you never know what an angry, frustrated, and intolerant mob might do. We had to make a decision.

I considered staying and taking photographs, but then I remembered how foreign photographers had been a popular target for maddening crowds in recent years, so I put my camera away and decided another course of action would be wiser. Concerned that we may be stuck in a town where, at worst, machete-wielding mobs might wreak havoc, or, at best, all the shops, bars, and restaurants would be boarded up for the rest of the night, I decided to take the lead and gave the order to run away.

We got our bags and met down by the jetties where boat owners ply their taxiing trade, and finally got one who'd take us across the lake for our price; strangely, the previously calm lake had become choppy, and the sky, clouded over. We endured a bumpy and damp ride for 40 minutes before reaching the far side of the water. So, here I am, in San Pedro, an extremely laid-back, friendly, lakeside town that smells of warm, damp, coffee beans, and also a strange, smoky aroma that seems to emanate from swinging hammocks.

I'll be touring the villages that dot the lake shore while waiting for some people to get in touch to meet up, and will stay here until I'm sure the mobs have gone back to their villages and taken their machetes and pitchforks with them. Nothing happens in these sleepy towns, so maybe just expect some images over the next few days (I'll be adding pics to my currently photo-less blog entries, so do check back for that).

Adios!

Update

2008-02-20T10:32:00.002+08:00

I'm back in Antigua and catching the early morning shuttle to the magical, majestic Lake Atitlan, where I plan to kick-back and feed myself up, and get the pics uploaded to the blog, so keep watching for more annotation soon!

The Best Beachside Bar Entertainment!

2008-02-13T10:28:00.002+08:00

After helping Mariachi feed the iguanas and turtles and fixing up a wall to separate one iguana from some young caimans who’d attacked him during the night, I asked Mariachi what else I could do. He led me to the hammocks, explaining that there would be more work tomorrow, as we’d be rebuilding the fronded roof of the turtle cemetery. I decided to head back to Monterrico to check my email, find a lost towel, and grab a soyburger and banana liquado at Johnny’s.

The bar was quiet; Monterrico is a weekend town, so during the week only a few people remained. One of the four or five customers was watching the horizon. As my food arrived, he let out a Wow! ‘There’s a whale breaching out there!’ He pointed to a spot about halfway between the horizon and the shore, just east of a stationery boat. We all moved to the side of the bar that faced the water and scanned the waves in eager anticipation. Sure enough, a huge whale leapt out of the ocean, getting an incredible amount of air for its size, and crashed back into the water with an immense splash. It was a humpback, and it wasn’t alone, as telltale spouts nearer the horizon gave away his buddies’ positions.

For the next three hours we sat, enthralled by the performance that we felt was put on for those of us who stayed to enjoy the real Monterrico. The spouts and breaches continued across the vista, culminating in a lengthy and intensive display of fluke-smacking that had us all shouting ‘Wow!’ in unison. I ordered another liquado to celebrate our fortunate sighting, and contemplated the amazing sights I had seen in this country, and in such a short time, particularly in and around Monterrico.

ARCAS Hawaii

2008-02-12T10:27:00.002+08:00

Buenos diaz!

As I was finishing off my blog entry last night, an approaching torchlight signalled the arrival of Mariachi, one of the guys who works at the parque. A friendly and welcoming Guatemalan, Mariachi smiled as he thanked me for coming; he was clearly very happy that he had at least one volunteer at this usually quiet time.

I explained, as best I could in my Coffee Break Spanish, my name, where I was from, where I live now … and, seeing as I’m only on lesson 10, I decided to end the conversation there by asking what time we start in the morning and signalling that perhaps I should go get some sleep. All spare time now will be spent building on my hardly great Spanish that’s hardly been used at all in the last 12 years since my last Central American adventure.

I slept well, and so far haven’t been bothered by malaria- and dengue-carrying mosquitoes, though their sandfly cousins are happily doing their best to annoy on the mosquitoes behalf. The rolling of the waves, just a turtle-run from my quarters, soon lulled me to sleep, and I was woken shortly before my alarm by the sun’s rays creeping through the mosquito netting in the east-facing window. The puppies greeted me as I emerged from my room and showed me where the bathroom was before electing one of themselves to escort me on a morning stroll of the beach. A pelican foursome glided over the waves in search of snatchable fish while a fishing boat trawled a net into a large circle just beyond the breakers.

The white pup drew my attention to a hole dug in the sand just beyond the shoreline. It looked to be the size of a turtle nest; further down the beach we spotted a couple and their child digging a similar but larger hole at the water’s edge. I went to investigate, but my limited Spanish ability and understanding of local arrangements left me with little more to do other than photograph the diggers to show the parque managers, although it’s probably nothing as we are clearly no longer in nesting season.

Mariachi just arrived, but then popped down to the nearer tienda for a Guatemalan momento—I guarantee he’ll be at least 45 minutes. The pups became excited by his arrival, and so did the mosquitoes, who are now nipping at my arms and legs in hunger. I’m going to Deet up. More later …

Parque Hawaii

2008-02-11T07:44:00.001+08:00

I’m in heaven. I’m on the beach, just a stone’s throw from the border to El Salvador, sitting under a palm-fronded lean-to, watching the sun set over a tumultuous Pacific. I’m completely alone (almost), and will soon be in utter darkness save for the light emitting from my MacBook monitor. This is Parque Hawaii, the ARCAS-run centre dedicated to the conservation of sea turtles, and also iguanas and caimans. The place seems to be run by three puppies, who greeted me enthusiastically when I arrived, checked my bags for me, and playfully escorted me as I explored the centre.

I found free-roaming geckos and captive fish, turtles, and caimans as I made my way around the grounds, and bathrooms, a library, an activity centre, and a couple of bunk-bedded dormitories. So I put my bag in the nicest one, claimed the bunk with mosquito net already installed, and headed down to the beach. As much as I enjoyed my stay at Monterrico, I was now enjoying being far away from the madding crowds and their maddening late-night and early-morning revelry. I was alone—just me, the pups, some reptiles and some fish, the sunset, and, soon, the stars and my old fiend Orion, who has accompanied me throughout my Guatemalan travels.

I felt like I had ridden into a ghost town that had clearly once been a hive of activity; the whiteboard showed that volunteers collected more than 32,000 turtle eggs from May of last year until this January. The busiest months were August to October, with roughly 9,000 eggs per month. January reaped just 83. February, it seemed, was only for the foolish who had no idea when egg-laying season was over; it wasn’t even represented on the board. A message in Spanish mentioned something about food for the puppies and leaving in the afternoon, and a freshly cut quarter of watermelon sat tantalisingly on the long, blue-painted but weathered table that at times must have hosted a dozen or so fervent volunteers. A large tub marked ‘PATROL KITS’ sat on the floor beneath a small notice reminding egg-saviours of their pre-bedtime duties, such as burying the nests properly and writing up all relevant data.

I walked buoyantly a kilometre or so down a sandy and bachata-serenaded lane to the nearest tienda, to get some essentials and give the locals a chance to practice their English. And here I now am, my supplies adequately bolstered with pasta, biscuits, and toilet paper, and my head filled with little more than the sound of the waves and realistic hopes of a good night’s sleep … and wondering what volunteer work I might be subjected to now that the fun stuff was over.

Hasta manana!

Hatchling Release

2008-02-10T12:30:00.001+08:00

One of the highlights of late-turtle-season weekends is the release of hundreds of hatchlings back into the ocean. The activity, organised by university-backed CECON, takes place every night in season, but, despite advice to the contrary, keep all the week’s hatchlings during slow season for mass release when more tourists are in town. People can pay to release a hatchling themselves, and if theirs is the first to cross a line drawn in the sand, they win a monetary prize.

At first I was impressed that so many people, both Guatemalan and foreign, came to watch the sunset event, and hoped that it served its educational purpose well. I wasn’t happy that young children were allowed to handle the soft, tiny young turtles, as clearly some weren’t as careful as you should be with an animal that’s just a day or so old and about to embark on an arduous and dangerous first night in the hostile ocean. The people at ARCAS also explained how they performed a study that showed the hatchlings' energy ebbed with every hour they were kept from entering the water; holding them on shore for a few days may provide more entertainment for and money from the tourists, but it was giving the turtles far more precarious chance of survival once released.

Marine researchers estimate that, for every thousand hatchlings, only one will make it to adulthood. That means, of the 32 thousand hatchlings saved and released by ARCAS in 2007, only 300 or so will return eight years later to carry on the cycle. Teams of volunteers scour the beach at night, competing with local parlameros (egg hunters) to be the first to spot and claim a nest. It’s hard work, in hot, humid, and often thunderous and mosquito-filled conditions, but most of the volunteers take the job very seriously, as they are very aware of the importance of ensuring the rescue of as many eggs and release of as many hatchlings as possible.

The CECON group operates a little differently: poorer in regard to volunteer help but richer by far with financial support, CECON mostly buys eggs directly from the parlameros. Once the eggs are in their care, the process is pretty much the same as that of ARCAS.

The eggs are counted and placed in new nests within a walled and sheltered sand pit. Within 45 to 50 days, the hatchlings emerge, are counted, and then they’re released into the ocean—at ARCAS, almost immediately, so as to give them the greatest chance of survival.

As I’m sitting here, Eduardo is checking on the last three nests in the hatchery to see if there is any sign of new life—and new hope for the ever-decreasing turtle populations. With a little luck, we should have some baby olive ridleys to release before I depart this rugged neck of the woods early next week.

Yawnless Dawn

2008-02-10T10:29:00.001+08:00

It wasn’t easy getting up at 5.00 a.m. when the salsa party next door didn’t finish until 2.00, but I didn’t want to miss the tour I had booked. I met my tour guide and fellow tourists at the main road at 5.30, and we quietly walked through the pre-dawn darkness to board our launcha, stopping briefly on the way to move a young and reckless pup from the middle of the road.

Once the six of us had boarded, our guide gently punted us out into the canal with a shunt of the pole, and we glided silently into the mangrove-lined waterway. As promised during the sales pitch, the infamous four-eyed fish frequently skimmed its way between the lily pads just beyond the bow. Other, smaller fish caused the surface of the water to bubble as they panicked away in tightly coordinated shoals. In the distance, a large flock of white herons or egrets took to flight as the rising sun gave away our silhouette.

Dawn is the busiest time on the canal, for all the animals, including humans; many boats carried a silent fisherman or two, with one on the bow continually casting a net across the water and loading the wriggling catch into the hull. I felt like I was inside a National Geographic article. It was magical—well worth the pre-dawn rise.

I was sad when we headed back to the dock, but on the bright side was thankful that it was still early enough to get some more morning sleep in. But that dream was dashed when I arrived at my room to find the country-and-western fans in the building next door were blaring their passion from just outside my quarters. So I hit Johnny’s for breakfast, and planned a day relaxing on the beach, with the intent of proving that Englishmen with Irish blood really can get a tan without going red first. (I failed).

Monterrico

2008-02-10T07:42:00.001+08:00

It’s always difficult to once more pack your bags and move on from a place that you really enjoyed and are not yet anywhere near tiring of. I felt sad leaving Antigua for Hound Heights, the same when heading back, and once more when departing Antigua for Monterrico. But always I’d been rewarded with a just-as-enjoyable experience at my latest locale, and my most recent stop didn’t let the side down.

A sleepy Pacific-side village by day, the popular beach resort comes alive at night with green bellies* and foreigners alike, who descend every weekend upon the bars and restaurants in their hundreds to enjoy the fresh seafood and air, convivial vibe, and endless stream of beachside reggae, bachata, and salsa.

The volcanic beach here, like the atmosphere, heats up as the day progresses, its ashen grains absorbing the rays the way the greying Americans sop up cheap rum cocktails. By early afternoon, it’s too hot to go barefoot, and the rolling ocean appeals for its cooling-off properties more than it scares by its thunderous swell. As I hotfooted it down to the ocean, my attention was drawn to some commotion centred on a recently arrived outboard. A svelte young blonde woman in sunglasses and a tiny black bikini had also risen from her sun-soaking to see what was going on. We agreed to check it out together.

As we neared the fishing vessel, the cause of all the lively interest became very apparent as four guys struggled to lift their catch, a huge manta ray that equalled the men in height as they raised the whopper head-first from the sand. It was enormous. I was in awe of the beast, and at first pitied him, for just a short time before he was gliding along beneath the olas or skimming the sea floor without a care in the world, and now here he was, destined for the dinner table. But then I realised that, if all animals had the freedoms he had up until the moment he met his baker, there would be far less suffering in the world. I wished him well, reminded him to be thankful he wasn’t factory farmed, and bade him farewell as I escorted the bikini-clad blonde back to our towels.

Her name was Kristine, and she had just moved from her native Denmark to Antigua to set up an organisation to raise awareness about water (I’ll expand on that bit once I have clarification from the lady herself). I was very interested to hear that she had made, for her thesis some years before, a documentary about the 15,000 people living off a huge garbage dump on the outskirts of Guatemala City. I was enthralled and appalled as she told me how people built homes from the garbage, ate from the garbage, sold their bodies among the garbage, and gave birth to and raised children in the garbage. I realised the importance of what someone had explained to me a week or so before: that we had no hopes nor right to increase the level of animal welfare in this country until we had first lifted the well-being of people from the abject depths at which some of them languish.

Kristine and her friends, Casimah and Jenna, and I hung out for the weekend, along with Matt, one of the Canadian guys I spent time with when I first arrived in Antigua. It was relaxing fun, as most of our time was spent on the beach, or in a café supping liquados and scoffing soyburgers. Jenna, the mother of one of Kristine’s friends, like myself couldn’t bear to look at the seven parrots in a tiny cage and started a whipround to build them a flight cage, which the hotel management agreed to. The cage should be built this week. Bless her.

Saturday evening, we danced a little in the sand, and I did my best to teach the ladies a little salsa as the only customers at one of the quieter beach bars. Salsa makes sense here, as does bachata, and the mariachi that set the pace for Sunday night Sumpango, and the Cuban rhythms in Antigua. It matches the local mood so much better than the hectic, conservative lifestyle of Taipei. I promised I’d meet the girls for real salsa lessons in Antigua early next week if my next stop didn’t work out. I clearly needed to refresh my repertoire of moves and turns, but the women, in their naivety, thought I did pretty well, bless them. I let them keep that misguided thought.

After sharing a surprisingly tasty late night snack, with chili-soaked carrots and garlic to counter any bad bacteria, a good night’s sleep ensued. Breakfast was spent exchanging contact information and badgering other hotel guests to chip in a few quetzales for the new parrot cage. We said our good-byes over late lunch at Johnny’s, and I ventured out onto Calle Principal to watch the world stroll by while awaiting the bus that would take me the bumpy, sandy road to Hawaii ... Hawaii, Guatemala, that is.

* a translation of vientres verdes, a term Guatemalans use to refer to themselves, as lovers of the locally abundant avacados

Breakfast on the Road

2008-02-09T07:41:00.002+08:00

Ignacio loved the photos. How cool was it for me to walk into the very expensive hotel lounge where he was playing and have him call out to me to thank me for the photos and tell me how good they looked? The gig was excellent and much appreciated by the more up-market crowd but lacked the vitality of the previous night’s gig. It ended sooner than I anticipated, but it was another special night all the same.

I met some ladies who wanted to see my pics; when I showed them, they wanted a copy. This has been happening a lot here. I’ve used up most of my CDs giving people copies of my photos, and I’m thinking this might be a good way to boost my budget while I’m travelling. I just have to learn to charge. We’ll see …

I rose early the next morning, needlessly; due to mechanical failure, the shuttle bus was 45 minutes late. I was the only one to board and was thankful that I would at least have all that extra space to spread my legs and perhaps lie down should the bumpy roads and scorching heat take their toll on my recently satiated stomach. But there were more passengers to come. We bounced around the cobbled streets, stopping and starting for what seemed like an eternity while we criss-crossed the city, picking up more Monterrico-bound travellers. After an hour of breakfast-churning bumps and potholes, we picked up our last passenger—just two blocks from where I got on an hour or so earlier. My stomach was not amused, and my head began spinning in sympathy.

I tried to enjoy some polite conversation with my friendly fellow shuttlers, but my mind was on other things; namely, getting my head out the window. I rudely ignored my new amigos and rested my forehead in the crease of my elbow, a buffer against the jarring window frame. It seemed to be working. For an hour I kept motionless like this so as to avoid the otherwise inevitable, with my face down, head out the window … and in the full glare of the late morning sun.

It was the heat that finally got me. My salivary glands gave the signal, lining my mouth to protect from the impending stomach fluids. I prayed no one could see me as I projected my now liquid breakfast-bagel-with-cream-cheese in short bursts along a half-kilometre stretch of the Antigua—Monterrico highway.

As we alighted at the launch that would take us along the lagoons and canals to our final destination, the driver joked about the green gringo greeting the searing daylight with blinkered eyes and vomit splattered t-shirt and chin. I accepted with a contained nod my status as the least cool person on the bus and headed for some canalside shade to await the boat.

One always feels a little better after ridding one’s stomach of unwanted contents, so I partook of the seaside air and observed a sweet-looking and thin young, female dog resting in the shade. What I saw next had me incredulous: a skinny, white-and-tabby young cat came and snuggled up to the dog and began kneading her teats. The dog then stretched out and allowed the cat to suckle what little milk she must have been able to provide. I’d heard about such misplaced fostering but never before witnessed it first-hand. It was beautiful to watch this unselfish and loving act; it became even more aah-inducing when the young dog turned to rest her head on the suckling feline.

I took this as an omen that my stay at Monterrico would be an interesting and enjoyable one as I boarded the launcha that would take some of my fellow travellers and me into Monterrico.

Panpipes and Conga Drums

2008-02-08T08:39:00.001+08:00

I’m sitting in a restaurant famous for promoting regional culture and music, waiting for an evening of Andean music to kick off. I’m a bit concerned: other than the staff, I’m the youngest person here by far. I might have to nip into the bathroom and grey my hair with soap and cigarette ash so as to fit in. I blame my poor Spanish: there was a cool Latin duo playing in Parque Central, and someone was giving out flyers for this venue, and I thought the talented duo and their dancers were playing here. I’m not particularly averse to Andean music, but anyone who frequents British town centres in the summer will already have had their fill of pony-tailed and ponchoed panpipe-playing Peruvians. Thankfully, Buena Vista de Corazon are playing again later tonight at another venue, just in case the Andean tunes don’t live up to the expectations of the over-60s.

It turns out that Ignacio may have been the original drummer at the club Buena Vista rather than the band, but it made no difference to those of us who were lifted by the conga player’s lively rhythms and gravelly, tobaccoed tones. Watching Ignacio last night was one of the highlights of my trip so far, and it’s made me think I should find the funds to visit Cuba while I’m so near. A tiny venue, the intimacy of the gig was thrilling, and almost the entire audience danced the whole night, including yours truly; I’m surprised more of the photos didn’t come out blurred. And it only cost 70 cents / 35 pence / NT$25 to get in. God, I love this place! Near the end of the night, I uploaded the photos to my laptop, did a bit of touching up, and presented Ignacio with a CD of the photos I took as a token of my appreciation before heading home to lay my heady head.

Antigua is much busier this week, perhaps because it’s holy week. I’m a bit shocked to be amongst so many foreigners again, but it means I’ve been able to make more friends. I met Anne and Hannah, two ladies working to improve the welfare of locals in order to in turn improve the level of animal welfare in the country. I bumped into Alexis, the Brit girl who only stayed one night at Hound Heights, and will be meeting her and Kate tonight at the Ignacio gig. And I met Christian and Sam, an English couple on a volunteering tour of Central America (I haven’t forgotten I owe you a decent mojito, Christian).

Christian and Sam are off to Cuba soon, and so is Kate. I’m really going to take a good look at my budget to see how I could fit in a Cuba trip—I can feel Havana beckoning. It would be great to head off over Sierra Maestra again and hit Trinidad or Santiago de Cuba for some real Cuban culture. Perhaps it’s time to sell my share of the pizza restaurant back in Taiwan …

I moved into the dormitory today to save a bit of cash, and I have to be up early to catch my shuttle to Monterrico at 8.00. In the meantime, I’m going to kick back and enjoy the bare-wall-and-wooden ambience of this candlelit courtyard restaurant … and the Andean music that is obviously such a hit with the elderly. Buenas noches!

Una Buena Vista Noche!

2008-02-08T00:37:00.001+08:00

I've been smiling since I arrived here in Guatemala, but, if you see me today, I'm practically laughing with every step; last night, I had the sheer joy of attending a gig fronted by Ignacio Perez Borrell, the original drummer for the Buena Vista Social Club. It was such a good night, I missed my shuttle to the black beaches of Monterrico, where turtles and caimans await. Manana!

Better and Better

2008-02-06T07:12:00.001+08:00

I'm in Antigua again. There are far more young people here than when I was last here.

I left Taiwan with some specific areas of my life that I needed to improve, and I just realised that I've already succeeded in many of them. Some are private, but I'll share some of the others here:

(1) I've learned how going to sleep early and getting up early can really make life far easier and more enjoyable, and I've started dreaming again, as my friend Colin told me I would.

(2) I've learned that you get far more done in the day and each week when you take time for yourself; working solid is ineffective.

(3) I now cook for myself (and others) whenever possible. It saves time and money, but is also a far more social and intimate experience than eating out.

(4) I'm learning to let go of whatever doesn't benefit me or take me towards my goals, and it works.

(5) Planning. I'm working on that. I'm getting better at planning the day and week or so ahead.

(6) I've learned the value of budgeting! I never thought I'd achieve this, but I budget strictly now and I'm enjoying getting by on just US$15 a day, including travel and accommodation.

There's more, but I'll share them later, as I've been told my posts are somtimes too long. So I'm working on that, too.

Happy Chinese New Year, everyone!

A Zippety-Doo-Da Day

2008-02-01T00:58:00.000+08:00

As I’m writing this, at my table, looking out the window at the pines, Kaful is nestled at my feet, eyeing up the kitten who already established dominance over the ‘aggressive’ retriever with a timely smack on the nose.

The Brit girls decided this morning, after a cold, dark night at high altitude, surrounded by noisy dogs, that they should seek volunteer opportunities elsewhere. Alexis hadn’t really come prepared for Hound Heights, and looked tired and sorry in the morning. I couldn’t bring myself to persuade her to stay, so I let Xenii and Martin know of their departure. It wasn’t entirely bad for me, as the girls cleaned up before they left and also helped keep a pup alive. And I got the more comfortable sleeping quarters back.

By 7.30 am, the clinic was getting ready to do a neutering session. Elsa, one of the vets, wasn’t happy that we had let the pup eat raw chicken, even when I tried to explain that it’s not just fine for pups but also the only thing he would eat, and that it was high in moisture content, which was very important for the dehydrated little dog. Her rudeness in the face of my explanation wasn’t appreciated, and I told her so; Elsa reacted by storming out of the clinic to tell Xenii that she was quitting. I had to apologise to get her to stay. I didn´t want to; if you gave in to a dog’s demands in this way, you would end up with a big problem on your hands. Which brings us to Kaful again.

I´d exercised Kaful already, and held him while Claudia, the other vet, injected him with the anaesthetic to put him to sleep for his neuter op. He snapped at her as she tried to stroke his head afterwards, but I had bound his muzzle shut already so no harm was done. When I went back to get him for surgery a short time later, I found Martin standing still in Kaful’s pen.

‘He attacked me when I tried to put his muzzle on!’ Martin explained. I went in and leashed Kaful and decided to lead him to the clinic for another shot before his neuter op. Kaful, seemed to know what was in store and who had asked for it to be done, and, as I went to tie the leash around his muzzle again so I could carry him safely, he lunged at me. I jumped back while pulling his leash skyward, and Kaful’s gnashers snapped just short of letting me know how it´ll feel for him after his op.

A battle of the minds ensued, but not between me and Kaful, but me and Elsa. Despite my suggestion that we use the dog-catching pole to control him, Elsa decided to make a point by trying to show that she would inject Kaful without incident merely by putting a blanket over his head. Luckily, I was able to pull his head back before he could bite her hand. Still she insisted that using the pole would make him more crazy, and again I saved her from getting bitten. For Elsa’s safety and so as not to cause offence by compromising her authority, I wound Kaful’s leash around a tree and pulled his head close to it so he could be injected in a back leg without being able to bite. It worked, and soon I was able to carry the snoozing Kaful into surgery, which went very well.

Dee came again today, as she does every Wednesday, to wash as many of the dogs as she can. She was still gushing with disbelief—and also praise to God—about how effective the natural diet has been on her dog Terry; after many, many months of trying every treatment available, Dee, a missionary, had laid hands on Terry and asked for a miracle. And then, according to Dee, I came into the picture soon after. I was a godsend! It´s nice to be appreciated sometimes, but I was mostly happy that Dee was helping her dog towards a more comfortable life.

I was impressed that Dee had taken the diet seriously and did everything I told her to. I reminded her that she should also be grateful to Dr Ian Billinghurst, as it was he who wrote The Barf Diet, the book that got me started on natural food for pets and turned me so much against commercial pet foods; they are mostly nothing more than food unfit for human consumption, processed to death, and marketed cleverly as ‘scientific’ diets.

Here’s the irony, though: the oldest dog in the world, an Australian cattle dog named Bluey, lived to the ripe old age of 29 years and seven months, and he died in 1939—several years before commercial diets started to become popular. Bluey was fed on raw, meaty farm scraps and leftovers. The two oldest dogs currently are also farm dogs and also fed the same. It seems that these ‘scientific’ diets cannot compete with randomly fed meat and table scraps. Think about that.

It makes sense, of course. Our pets have been thriving on our leftovers for many thousands of years. Commercial convenience foods have only been around for about 60 years, and since then, we’ve seen our pets suffering from all kinds of ailments that our grandparents’ scraps-fed animals didn’t: kidney disease, tooth problems, gum problems, bad breath, leaky eyes, dysplasia and arthritis, anal-sac infections … the list goes on. I could write so much about this, so I will, but later, and I’ll tell you about my first dog, Foxie, and how her failing heart and kidneys got me researching diets for critically ill dogs, and how her recovery shocked the heart specialist who examined her every six months.

Anyway, Dee was singing my praises again by the end of the afternoon, bless her, because I leashed ‘the unleashable dogs’ for her so that she could give them their first bath ever. And they all seemed to really enjoy it! Dee lives in Antigua, where I’ll be heading back to for a few days next week, so hopefully I’ll be able to meet and photograph her improving dog, Terry.

As I headed into town, walking down the lane that leads to the main road, with a bright blue sky above, corn fields to my left and fir trees to my right, and hummingbirds silently floating amongst the flowers, I realised what a zippety-doo-da day I was having. I´m enjoying myself here. We all need a bit of zippety with our doo-da at times. :-)

A Good Day

2008-01-31T00:50:00.000+08:00

Today was a good day.

Kaful arrived yesterday afternoon and I had to get him out of the car using a dog-catching pole. Kaful did not like it, and he thrashed around like a hooked fish. I led him, in wild circles, to his new home: a kennel and run shared with two females. As I predicted, once his doting family drove off, Kaful calmed down considerably, and looked a little lost … and in need of a leader.

Today, Kaful was barking ferociously again at anyone who went near his run and snapping aggressively at anybody who didn’t understand the instructions to stay out until he had been rehabilitated. But I know how a dog’s mind works, so I slowly approached Kaful’s pen and sat with my side to the wire fence, remaining calm and confident and ignoring the gnashing canine beside me. He barked ferociously at the fence for a while before doing what most aggressive dogs do when countered with nonchalance: he lowered his head and quietly came closer for a sniff. You see, people don’t understand that, in polite dog circles, the first thing new acquaintances do is smell each other. They don’t make eye contact, they don’t speak, and they don’t touch; instead, they approach sideways-on for a smell of the stranger -- anything else would be perceived as possibly threatening by the other party.

So, once I’d introduced myself (my unique smell) to Kaful properly, his aggression dissipated. I had made friends with him. He sat near the fence, with his eyes averted, signalling that he had accepted my presence as non-threatening. So I quietly went inside with the dog who, just a couple of days before, had made some vicious lunges at my legs, arms and face. I remained aloof, giving Kaful the impression that I was confident of my status as the more dominant of us two, and Kaful backed off with nothing more than an interested look. I sat looking away, and almost immediately he came closer for a quick smell before laying down beside me, his eyes relaxed and looking away. As he had approached me, I stroked his side gently while speaking praise, and he closed his eyes, showing his enjoyment.

After a few minutes, I decided he was ready for the next phase in our new relationship: me leading Kaful on a walk down the hill and back. I reached for the noosed leash I’d hung over the fence already and carefully hooked it over his head. Once you get a dog on the end of a leash, particularly one that will tighten with pressure, you are half way to cementing your position as a calm, assertive leader and his as a calm, submissive charge. I stood up and gave a light tug to signal we were on the move and Kaful responded as I knew he would and stood up to come with me. He approached the door but I held him back and made a noise that showed my discontent with his attempt at going through before me. He respectfully backed up, I walked out, and then I gave a little tug again to show he could now follow.

In stark contrast to the wild and crazy antics the day before, Kaful instantly accepted his place either by my side or behind me and we headed off down the muddy path at a brisk pace, which Kaful clearly enjoyed, as his behaviour when out with his family had meant no walks in a long time for the

energetic young canine. For the first ten minutes, Kaful wasn’t allowed to stop to smell or go to the bathroom; only once he'd mastered the walk with me was he granted the opportunity to go about taking in the smorgasbord of doggy smells along the trail.

When I felt it was time for wagons to roll again, I gave him a gentle tug and we went on our way, with Kaful looking every part the show dog walking calmly, obediently, and happily by my side. It was a great feeling, and I couldn’t help but smile when I returned him to

his run when I thought about the rapid progress we had made. Of course, Kaful wasn’t a bad dog; he’d just been allowed too much of a free rein with his family and was acting up because of it. As I headed back to the cabin, I looked back to see the golden retriever’s eyes following me lovingly and longingly. I looked forward to taking him out again later in the day.

The Brit girls arrived mid-afternoon and immediately set about helping me with the chores and cleaning up the clinic and guest room. Lucy and Alexis had only arrived in Guatemala one day before, as part of a round-the-world trip, but had decided to roll up their sleeves and get straight into volunteer life. I walked them into town and bought all the ingredients to make a curry of sorts for our evening meal. The ladies took it upon themselves to care for a two-month-old pup who was refusing to eat, was covered in fleas, cold, and dehydrated. It looked like the little guy wasn’t going to make it to the end of the day, but my fellow Brits got him eating raw chicken, taking in some water, and warmed up on a hot-water bottle. It was great to see him improve so much under the care and attention he was receiving. The last I saw of the sick pup was his tail a-wagging as he was being prepared for a night sleeping inside Lucy’s sleeping bag to keep him warm. The runt had made it.

Missing and More

2008-01-30T00:49:00.000+08:00

Am I missing Taiwan? My dogs, of course, are always on my mind; I worry if they’re getting enough walks and attention, and hoping they’re not missing me too much, as it’ll be a while before I see them again. The weather here is perfect (when not cold), with clear blue skies almost every day and crisp, fresh air, so I’m not missing the bleak winter months over there. There are some people I’m missing, but I’m making friends here every day.

There are many things about Taiwan I don’t miss, of course, and a few situations. I’m happy that I’ve only encountered good people here so far. But I do miss something about the R.O.C. Not sure what it is. Not too seriously, mind, but I am looking forward to the familiarity of being ‘home’ again in April and seeing if I’ve been changed at all by my travels. But I suspect I’ll miss Guatemala when I leave, even though I’ve only been here two weeks. It’s a great environment, and very colourful, and I’m tempted to start a new life here. We’ll see. I’m also hoping to check out a new dog shelter in Mexico late March, and I had a great time there last time I visited our neighbouring country to the north, so who knows?

There’s a guy here fixing the electrics in the clinic, and he has taken it upon himself to get me practicing Spanish. So far we’ve discussed my travels, chinitas (beautiful Chinese girls) and muchachas (beautiful local girls), and beer. It look like he’s taking me to a local cantina to sample a few bottles of local beers in order to get the Spanish flowing; I just hope I’m back in time for early evening dog walks!

The Brits still haven’t arrived, but Kaful is on his way, I hear, which is great news! I’ll start working with the vicious retriever this evening, unless I do have a beer, in which case we’ll wait until tomorrow. This almost certainly means I’ll have some more stories to tell, so stay tuned.

Adios!

Out With the Old

2008-01-30T00:21:00.000+08:00

I’ve been told two new volunteers are arriving today. The Dutch volunteers (actually, Wilson was born a South African, I later learned) left yesterday, bound for Antigua and onwards. I was sad to see them leave, as we all got along really well, shared mealtimes and went on village jaunts together, and all in all we had quite a good time. We only nearly came to blows once, on their last night, during a discussion about neutering ;-). The two British ‘birds’, as Xenii likes to call them when speaking to me, will be staying the minimum two weeks, which is great because that gives me a week to show them what to do and an extra week of making sure the skin-condition dogs get their natural diet after I leave.

I’m not sure who or what to expect, but I’m looking forward to sharing some British humour and seeing if they brought any baked beans or Marmite with them. I’m a little concerned about the sleeping arrangements, though, as I’ve become quite comfortable in the recently vacated clinic quarters, and really don’t want to be extradited to the cabin porch again. We’ll see how it goes.

Noah

2008-01-29T00:46:00.000+08:00

It was going to happen sooner or later: I did my first rescue today. Nothing exciting; very easy. I had seen this skinny little pup yesterday, excitedly bouncing up to passersby and following them for a while before the next human took his interest. His ribs and pelvis were protruding, his back legs looked weak, and his deep-brown eyes seemed to large for his underdeveloped head, but he seemed happy enough. I was on my way to the village market, so I told myself if he was still there when I came back I’d take him back to Hound Heights with me; he had vanished by the time I returned.

But today he was there again, bouncing around the street, greeting passersby, and he came straight to me. I picked him up and examined him; his teeth showed that he was only a few months old. He had no fleas nor any obvious ailment other than being grossly underweight. Again I told myself that, if he was there on my return journey, I would take him back to AWARE as he obviously wasn’t getting enough food to survive.

But Noah had other plans. Not wanting to leave seeing me again to chance, the skinny canine street urchin somehow found the Internet café I was at and came striding in for more attention. The café owner wanted to shush Noah out, so I picked the pup up and took him across the street, where he sat and waited patiently for me to finish what I was doing online. I carried him with me to the market, buying him a leash along the way. But he refused to walk when leashed, so, now laden with my jacket, chicken for the skin-condition dogs, supplies for myself, and a four-kilo pup, I decided to take a tuk-tuk back to the centre, making this a very expensive day for me, going well over my daily budget. But some things are worth it.
And why did I call him Noah? I discovered on my return that I had accidentally left a tap on before heading out, and the clinic was aflood with water.

As I’m writing this, Noah is happily munching on a raw chicken leg with a green-veggie-and-supplement sauce. He gets vaccinated tomorrow. It looks like I’ll be making a donation towards his care when I leave, but hopefully he’ll get adopted soon. We’ve had an adoption almost every day since I arrived.

The Dog Screamer

2008-01-28T00:16:00.000+08:00

When I wrote to AWARE to tell them I would like to come volunteer for a few weeks, I informed them that I have experience and enjoy rehabilitating problem dogs, including overly timid or aggressiveones. I’m no expert, but I have employed the methods I have learned from watching Cesar Millan on the National Geeographic Channel’s The Dog Whisperer to great effect. Cesar adopts the approach whereby we need to think more like a dog instead of trying to teach a dog to think like a person. He teaches people how being a calm, assertive leader will bring about a calm, submissive dog—not submissive in the fearful sense, but more in that the dog will happily relinquish his or her perceived leadership role to their new leader and thereby shed the unwanted behaviours that had come about from their (usually reluctant) belief that they should be in charge.

A dog needs a leader. In dog packs, there are two basic strata: the two alphas, and everyone else. If a pack loses its leader, one of the dogs will immediately assume the position for the sake of the pack’s coherence and safety. When the human members of the dog’s pack show no leadership qualities in the dogs own language, the dog must take the responsibility on him- or herself, and that almost always leads to problems, for a dog doesn’t know how to lead in a human world.

How do we show a dog we are the leader and he or she is the follower? There are five basic rules: a pack leader goes through doors first, he leads the walk, he doesn’t respond to demands for his attention whenever the pack is reunited, he eats first, and he ignores unwanted behavio

ur and is careful to reward desired behaviour. Cesar also teaches the importance of giving clear, consistent rules, boundaries, and limitations to a dog, and of giving the dog exercise, education, and reward, in that order.

I've gone to people's homes to teach them how to employ these methods with their own dog, and always the reaction is incredulity when I show them how well behaved and easily accepting of new leadership a dog can be. “That’s not my dog! What have you done with my dog?” is the usual response when owners see how well their dog can walk on a leash, how he can allow himself to be touched again, how nicely he sits before feeding, how calm he becomes, and how much happier he is after shedding his leadership role.

Using these techniques, I’ve helped dogs become less timid, less aggressive, less boisterous, more accepting of strange circumstances, and far better behaved. The methods are sim

ple, but many people have trouble adopting them because it goes against what they feel they should do when faced with a problem dog. With a scared dog, for instance, we mustn’t comfort them, as that will only reward the fear while demonstrating the lack of leadership at a time when she needs to feel protected; instead, we show calm assertiveness to the dog, not allowing her to back away from what scares her, making her sit or stand confidently, and demonstrating that we will lead her through the experience to minimize her stress.

At AWARE, I’ve already been busy showing Naomi how to control scared and aggressive dogs while they’re being examined; I’ve shown that so-called ferocious dogs will accept a calm, assertive guest entering their cage and sitting beside them (see pics of Dickens and me, above); and I’ve taken dogs for a walk who had previously been too scared to go outside or reluctant to accept a leash. It’s been extremely rewarding.

But it hasn’t all been successful: Xenii got a call from a family whose Labrador retriever, Kaful, had bitten three times and who was getting increasingly aggressive, so she suggested bringing him over for me to try to fix. It was going well: I took Kaful’s leash and started to

lead him on a walk. But he suddenly pulled out of the collar, and when I tried to put it back on him, he went for me. I’ve had dogs try to bite me before (and several succeeded), but this was the first time I was actually attacked so full on. Kaful jumped at me and tried to bite my arm and leg, and I made the mistake of backing off, giving him the perception that his aggression was now in charge.

I went to Kaful again and this time stood my ground as he snapped at me, and he backed off. I kept entering his space and he kept backing off, but every time we tried to get his collar back on, he protested viciously.

The family decided to put Kaful back in the car, and I asked them to bring him back the next day so that I could work with him again. Xenii called them later and left a message that I had agreed to have Kaful come live with me for a week so that I could have plenty of opportunity to fix his unwanted aggression, but so far we’ve not heard back from them. I’m worried that they may have taken a more terminal approach to Kaful’s aggression. If Kaful comes here soon, I’ll happily stay a few extra days to work with him; I really don’t want this one to slip through because of my mistake.

Mobbed

2008-01-27T00:19:00.000+08:00

Guatemala is a wonderfully laid-back place. Life is enjoyed slowly, and work isn’t something you should stress over. Up here in Sumpango, people greet each other when passing in the street, and I’ve managed to perfect my Buenos dias and Buenas tardes because of all the friendly, smiling greetings I receive from the Indian folk on my walk into town to buy supplies or get online. Horses amble past bearing loads of wood or fruit, led by a genuine Guatemalan cowboy who waves Ola even to the passing gringo. It’s a wonderful change to the fast and mostly unacknowledging Taipei city life that strangers are greeted in such a friendly manner so consistently.

But one thing here disturbs me: When you read the guidebooks or check official websites about safety in foreign countries, you’ll come across many stories of Guatemalan townspeople taking matters into their own hands and lynching those visitors they believe to be up to no good. About six years ago, a Japanese tourist and his local driver were killed by an infuriated crowd after he took photos of a youngster at a time when tales were circulating of Satan-worshipping child snatchers operating in the area. Another tourist in another village was murdered for similar reasons. Advice is explicit: Do not photograph locals without asking permission and be careful to avoid interactions with local children, even just taking a snap.

This bothers me a lot, as, apart from sharing experience with other animal-welfare agencies, I’m here to capture the beauty of this place in digital images. All my photos so far have included locals only if they have wandered into the picture (as I planned) or seemed happy for others to photograph them, or I’d had explicit information to do so. I usually enjoy doing silly magic tricks for kids or making them laugh, but here I stare at the ground and walk on by whenever a Guatemalan Indian child comes near.

My Dutch roommates thought this was hilarious, that I was so in fear of being lynched for accidentally photographing a disallowing subject or being mistaken for a child snatcher. They laughed when I told them one afternoon of my sheer terror at finding I was walking back from Sumpango, past the school, at turning-out time. Hundreds of kids spilled onto the street as I walked along trying to hide my camera and ignoring the ‘Hello’s from those children brave enough to practice their English. Too many of them seemed mischievous. I wondered how much fun they thought it would be to play victim and get a passing foreigner into serious trouble. I know kids—I taught them for years—I know how they can go too far sometimes. I was crapping myself. I kept my head down and strode ahead, but they were pouring out of everywhere and their numbers were increasing. Then I started worrying that striding along with a hidden camera while refusing to make eye contact or return ‘Hello’s might make me seem like I was up to no good!

After what seemed like an eternity, I finally passed the bulk of them, and it was only my fear that it would look bad that stopped me from running once I had emerged from the young crowd.

Wilson enjoyed telling Xenii and Martin of my nightmare return from town. Martin said that there was really no need to worry, as the Sumpagoans hadn’t lynched anyone for a couple of years now. What?! Apparently, just two or three years ago, a couple from Guatemala City parked their car outside the school and took photos of some of the kids, which spooked one of the children so much that she ran screaming down the street, and a lynch mob quickly formed. The police came to the couple’s rescue, but the angry and vengeful villagers later stormed the police station, running the entire force and the mayor out of town; anarchy ensued, culminating in the rubber-necklacing of the two snap-happy city folk in the village square!

I now leave my camera at home when heading into the village and time my visits not to coincide with the comings and goings of the local school. And only photograph foreigners.

Taking Care of Los Perros

2008-01-24T00:14:00.000+08:00

My first impression of Hound Heights was that it was a bit messy, with rickety cages set up all over the tree-shaded hillside, but well run. The dogs were kept in groups of three to six in simple housing mostly made up of small breeze-block buildings surrounded by wire fence nailed onto roughly hewn wooden stakes. The dogs seemed happy. Four staff worked to keep them well fed and watered, and what I really liked was that every dog was walked every day, along the wildflower-encrusted trails that zigzag down the hillside. It was evidently the dogs’ favourite part of the day, as those that could joyously bounced at their doors when it was almost their turn to be taken out.

Many of the dogs here are overweight. Xenii gives strict instructions to her staff to keep food and water bowls topped up; I guess it’s to ensure that the slower or more timid eaters get their fill. It’s my only criticism; I prefer to keep dogs on the slim side, for longevity and greater health. Skin problems seem to be a big problem here, with a lot of the dogs showing flea allergies or mange. They all receive medication daily (AWARE has two vets, Claudia and Elsa, who come several days a week to prescribe medication for the animals) but to me it’s clear that, for these dogs at least, the donated dry food, despite it’s good name, isn’t helping their immune system any. But the majority of animals here are happy and healthy, perhaps thanks to the fresh mountain air, daily exercise, and oxygen-rich environment that´s also doing wonders for me.

Thankfully, Xenii is well read on natural diets for animals, and I’ve been given free rein to take some of the worst dogs, put them together, and take charge of their feeding. The dogs at the Animals Taiwan holding centre are all fed raw meaty bones (mostly chicken and the occasional fish or lamb rib) and a blended mix usually composed of green leafy veggies, garlic, fish oil, egg yolk, and apple cider vinegar. Unlike most shelter dogs, none of the AT dogs have fleas. Ticks were kept to a minimum during my tenure thanks to daily helpings of garlic and vinegar. Since starting to give the Animals Taiwan dogs the veggie mix every day, we had seen incredible improvements in the health of all the animals, and all those with recurring skin problems are now showing off beautifully healthy, shiny coats. I hope that I can show such improvements in the AWARE dogs under my care during my stay—I’ll happily come back in a few weeks to check.

We’ve been spraying the flea-allergy and fungal-infection dogs here with apple cider vinegar, as it creates an acidic environment parasites can’t thrive in without any nasty side effects for the animals. We discovered after a few days that the apple cider vinegar is actually fake, made up of some acid and apple flavouring. We’ve searched high and low for the real stuff but haven’t found any. But we may be in luck: Dee, a regular volunteer at AWARE with a dog of her own who has had a long-term and stubborn skin condition, listened intently to how we feed the dogs at Animals Taiwan and the profound positive effect it’s had on their health. She memorised the formula and went straight out to get all the ingredients for her beloved dog.

Three days later, Xenii was over the moon to play me the message that Dee left on her answer machine, telling of her utter disbelief that the new, natural diet has already made a great difference to her dog’s condition; the first signs that she has noticed are that the dog’s eyes are no longer weeping or red. I smiled when I heard how happy Dee was. Dee has spent a fortune trying every potion possible to cure her pet of her painful skin condition. We’ll see how well it goes from here. Anyway, Dee is taking advantage of her newfound source of apple cider vinegar to make sure that the AWARE dogs can start to benefit in the same way.

Hound Heights

2008-01-23T00:05:00.000+08:00

[I’m now staying in the mountains near a village that’s not even in the travellers guidebooks, and getting online with a fast connection isn’t easy, so entries will be long, as they will cover many days. Put the kettle on! Also, my connection here is slow, so I'll upload those next time I´m back in civilization]

I left a bustling Sunday afternoon Antigua in a taxi bound for Sumpango. I was supposed to be sharing with three Dutch volunteers who had already been at Hound Heights for a while and were visiting the old city, but something got lost in translation, and their driver, who I had called to arrange to share their fare, had got me another driver who was trying to take me to Guatemala City. It took my best Spanish and a lot of miming to explain the mix-up, but I succeeded too late, and, having missed my shared ride, ended up having to fork out for the cab fare by myself – about a day and a half’s worth of travel budget. I’d be eating tortillas for the next few days.

I was greeted at Hound Heights by several fat, barking dogs, and, soon after, the not-so-fat Xenii (pronounced ‘Shaney’), one of the founders of AWARE. A greying lady with a youthful sparkle, Xenii has been running this hillside dog rescue shelter with her British husband, Martin, a Herne Bay native, for eight years now. Xenii argued the fare on my behalf while Pete, one of the grounds’ free-roaming dogs, went and found the bottle of juice I had left on the floor, which I was thankful for, especially as he relinquished his proud find so easily.

It was a warm and dusty early evening, and Xenii immediately showed me to my quarters, which boasted a hot shower, apparently. She walked me to a cabin just up the hill. We walked inside, and I noticed from outside that the main room was stacked to the roof with huge bags of dry food. We didn’t go in. We were standing in the porch. Xenii pointed to a folded camp bed in the corner. ‘Well, make yourself at home’, and she ambled outside. My new home was the porch. This was even smaller than my last place and smelled of dry dog food, but a bed’s a bed, so I resigned myself to my new quarters and unloaded my bags. Grabbing a sweater to ward off the approaching night chill, I followed Xenii to the clinic, where the three Dutch volunteers were staying, while Pete gleefully nipped at my shoes and my trousers as I made my way through his territory.

The room the other volunteers had was large—enough for three single beds pushed closely together—and had a fridge, stove, small dining table, and lots of shelf space for towels and bedding, mostly for the animals. Wilson and Jolanda, and their new roommate, Naomi, had been travelling for a while already, and, fortunately for me, they all spoke English well. Naomi, a vet student, had been in Guatemala for six weeks; Jolanda is an occupational therapist and Wilson does paving; both have been in Central America for a month and will stay a little while longer. The friendly and welcoming trio told me what jobs I could do and shared their food with me, which was great as I hadn’t yet got any supplies of my own.

I had arrived as the day’s work was coming to an end, so the only thing left to do after eating was walk some of the clinic dogs, so we all grabbed one each and set off into the darkness to let the canines relieve themselves before sitting down to watch a movie. Bedtime soon followed, and I trekked the path back to my bijou quarters and settled into my sleeping bag and camping bed—and a pretty good night’s sleep, given the cold and the chatty and fidgety two black cats who decided to share my abode.

Siesta King

2008-01-20T23:45:00.001+08:00

*** For more pics, see my PBase site.

This beautiful town lulls you into a more relaxed lifestyle, entices you into slowing down your pace, and eases you into a new mindset that realizes the importance of taking time to stop and smell the roses as part of your daily routine.

Taipei is a friendly city, but, in Antigua, people take more time for each other, and the friendliness is more ... genuine. No one is racing anywhere; friends and family greet each other in the street and spend time laughing together; workers take siesta; and everyone takes a moment to sit and absorb the spring sunshine. I like it.

I thought I’d perfected the art of siesta, as I managed to doze off just after lunch; I wish I hadn’t extended my snooze so long, though: I woke up at midnight, which isn’t the best time to be wide awake, refreshed and hungry in a town with a 1.00 am curfew and a guest house that locks the door at 12.00. I missed my pub quiz and salsa night! But there’s salsa every night here, so I still have plenty of opportunities to show these Latin American women just how white English guys interpret one of their dance styles. I accidentally extended my siesta yesterday, too, which was surprising, because I seemed to have adjusted my body clock really well when I arrived, sleeping at 1.00 am and rising at 8.30. Not sure where I went wrong, but it’s clear the laid-back life here has something to do swith my new ability to sleep at any time. Except when I’ve just woken at midnight after an eleven-hour stint of shut-eye.

So, I’m tapping away at my keyboard in the hope that my eyes will soon get heavy again and I can get closer to my goal of learning to be asleep well before midnight and up just after dawn. I head to the AWARE animal rescue centre on Monday, and I need to have adjusted to a 6.00 am start by then, or I’ll have 170 hungry dogs baying at my tardiness.

**************************

Well, I somehow managed to keep sleeping, and woke up at 5.30 am, which is exactly where I need to be for my 6.00 am starts next week. So I got up, took a reluctant cold shower, dressed, and headed out. My early morning escapade ended at the front door, which was still locked for our safety. I didn’t have the heart to wake the couple who run the guest house, as they would have been up so many times during the night to let in the later revelers, so I sat and read. And read. And read. But 7.15 I did have the heart to wake the couple, so I banged on their door and the wife kindly got up and let me out.

So, this is what early rising is like! The streets were quiet, the light even, and I had a hunger like you couldn’t imagine. Muerto del hambre means ‘I’m dying of hunger’ and was the first Spanish phrase I ever learned, from the non-English speaking grandmother of a girlfriend I had gone to stay with in Apopka, Florida, when I used to live in the Florida Keys. The grandmother chose something she could demonstrate easily, which she did beautifully, rubbing her tummy with acted pain, and later demonstrating how muerto means ‘I’m dying’ – which was acted so well that I considered calling an ambulance before fleeing for overtaxing the kindly old lady.

I’m really enjoying the slow pace, and am way more than rested. I’m not one for a dull, easy life (though I hereby vow to take a little more time to enjoy the simple things in life), so I’m going to make arrangements today to go and start working at the dog rescue … or maybe I’ll hike up the nearby active volcano first; whatever happens, more exciting news to follow. ☺

(This is a stray dog I call Uno; he has lost almost all his teeth and much of his lower jaw, just like Norton, a dog at the Animals Taiwan holding centre. Uno was covered in what looked like tar, so I spent a little time cutting the bigger bits out of his fur with my Swiss army knife) >>>

Amo Antigua!

2008-01-18T02:26:00.000+08:00

Well, on the plane, I got talking to a Ken, a lawyer from Santa Barbara who's also on several NGO boards, including the Santa Barbara Wildlife Care Network. Ken and his architect buddy, Allen, were traveling to Antigua to visit Ken's cousin, Matt, so we agreed to share a taxi.

Things have changed a lot since I was last here 12 years ago. For one, we weren't descended upon by mobs of official and illegitimate taxi drivers as we left the airport, and the road to Antigua was very smooth, with emergency stopping lanes, signs to slow down, and traffic lights.

The ride seemed to take no time, and before I knew it, the driver announced that we had arrived in Antigua, and immediately we entered a different world, one that I was very familiar with. I couldn't help but smile as we drove along the cobbled streets lined with single- and two-storey Spanish colonial buildings of terracotta, mustard and ochre.

The first guest house I tried was full, and the second didn't answer my knocking, but on the third try I was fortunate enough to be offered the last room available, and was pleasantly surprised when entering the courtyard to find that this was the same place I had stayed in so many years before. A simple guesthouse with small rooms and cold showers, it appealed to those real travelers, the ones on a budget, and is a great place to meet people, make friends, and find companions with whom to hit the bars and restaurants. In the daytime, guests were rewarded with an outstanding backdrop: the giant Volcan Agua, an extinct volcano that overlooks the town.

My room was US$3, and consisted of a tiny bed, a table, and enough floor space to choose either standing room or a place for my bag. It was all I needed, so I threw my bags down, got changed, and headed out for a bite to eat with my new friends.

I've been living in Taiwan for nine years now, and have come to love the place, but on ambling along the cobblestones of Antigua, with its antiquated but lively feel, full of the most gorgeous courtyarded cafes, restaurants, and bars, I had to wonder if I'd just got used to Taipei; Antigua is the kind of place that really appeals to my senses.

I slept well, and spent the next day exploring, eating, and taking photographs. Every street, every person, every establishment is as photogenic as you could ever want; the town is so picturesque you'd think they'd consulted theme-park designers. But this place is real. Cobblestones are missing, paint is peeling, and some buildings are in need of repair, but the place's dignity is so clearly intact.

One thing I really like about Antigua is that signs are not allowed to impose on the ambience of the place. One street has a McDonald's, but you'd only know that if you passed closely, as no arches are allowed, and no tacky Ronald sits outside waiting to put his arm around resting fast-food addicts. A simple bronze sign tells you what lies behind the large wooden door and simple, iron-clad windows, and the business is none the worse for it, with a steady supply of customers still eagerly queuing up for their fried-food fix.

I like this place. Already I'm thinking about staying.

On the Way!

2008-01-17T01:50:00.001+08:00

I'm up in the air right now – literally: I'm on my final flight, from Dallas Fort Worth to Guatemala City. It's 6.45 in the evening, and we're somewhere over Mexico.

I very nearly missed my flight on Tuesday morning, as I was packing and saving laptop files all through the night, mostly because I managed to find more fun things to do at the last minute instead. I arrived by taxi just 35 minutes before take-off … at the wrong terminal: My driver woke me up as he dropped me off at the China Airlines check-in at Terminal 1, but, to my surprise, the lady at the desk there told me that China Airlines has check-ins at both terminals, and the Japan flight was leaving from the other.

She pointed me in the direction of the skybus to that terminal, and I headed off, adopting that panicked, waddling gait and wide-eyed signage staring particular to people carrying too heavy bags while rushing to a place so far unseen. The signs for the skybus said This Way and That Way, and then stopped. Then they started saying Shuttle Bus to Terminal 2, This Way and That Way, and then stopped. I had come so far only to realize that I must retrace my steps, so I did, this time waddling faster with wider eyes and more lost head turns per second than I had employed before.

I found the elevator to the skybus, stepped in, and hit the Door Close button about twenty times in succession, ignorant to the squeals of pain and annoyance coming from those people being pounded by the doors as they tried to follow me in.

Once we arrived at the third floor, the doors opened and more signs beckoned us to keep waddling in a panicked fashion this way and that way, up stairs, down long corridors, across bridges over highways, down more stairs, and along more lengthy corridors, finally to the waiting skybus, which glided us into Terminal 2, where, thankfully, only a few more corridors, twists and turns led me to the check-in. I realized, during this great journey from Terminal 1 check-in to the skybus terminal, that I could have walked directly to Terminal 2 in half the time.

When I finally reached the desk, the check-in was closed. Mercifully, the very nice woman at the China Airlines group check-in took pity on the sweating foreigner she saw before her and quickly processed my ticket and bag and sent me toward the gate with a pleasant "But you should hurry up!"

I had just enough time to wake my best friend up with a hurried 'Good-bye and take care' call before waddling one last time onto the plane, where I took my seat and looked out at the tarmac I won't be seeing again for a few months.

The service both on the plane and at check-in were fantastic, I have to say; China Airlines have really made some improvements there. Everyone was polite, attentive, and pretty, which helped ease away the stress of the hurried morning. Good food, too.

Tokyo Narita airport was very nice, but I have nothing much to report about that, other than the ubiquitous "Very clean and very expensive". I changed up a thousand NT and bought myself a sandwich and some chocolate, and read my book while waiting for the flight, American Airlines 060 to Dallas.

I had mixed feelings about the service on American Airlines. Firstly, AA seems to be the place where cabin crew go to die, as all those on this flight were grey – perhaps it's a requirement, because grey matches the navy blue of the uniform. Also, I noticed the crew to be a little impatient and very condescending, particularly when assisting the Asian passengers. I guess, when you're a 55-year-old flight attendant, you've heard the same questions a few thousand times too many, and you used up all your polite responses in the eighties.

Still, despite my first impression, and with a little more understanding, I soon began to enjoy the friendliness of the service, which was free flowing when not demanded. All I remember of the eleven-hour flight was slipping out of slumber to eat before quickly sliding back into sleep again. My request for vegetarian fare didn't go through, so I ended up enjoying the bread rolls and salads from two trays otherwise destined for meat-eaters. At least the breakfast offered more for the non-carnivore.

It was lucky I caught up on sleep during my flights, because U.S. Immigration was ahead of me, with the long, slow-moving lines that are indicative of a more careful (paranoid?) approach to welcoming visitors to American soil. I had been warned that the process wasn't anything to look forward to, so I was surprised to find that there were plenty of jovial and helpful staff on hand to assist me with my forms (they fill them in for you – not sure if that counters the security measures or not, but I appreciated it nonetheless, much as one would appreciate someone sitting a test on one's behalf, guaranteeing a pass). Friendly signs assured me of the professional and courteous nature of the officials waiting to screen me, and a uniformed man mingled among the waiting queues with a little beagle named Brady to add to the cheer.

Brady was a sniffer dog, trained to sense and indicate the presence of any contraband in the passengers' bags. Still, everyone thought he was cute and enjoyed watching him, his tail a-wagging, his ears a-flapping, and his nose a-sniffing, ready to grass on those with grass on them. I smiled as he scampered along the line toward me, enjoying watching the little fella loving his job so much, and grateful that I had nothing in my bag to give the American security personnel a chance to show what they can do.

And then Brady stopped at my bag. He sniffed it all over, again and again and again and again. I looked in wide-eyed alarm at his security-guard handler, who in turn looked questioningly at me; my fellow passengers stepped away from my bag and its canine admirer and glared at me while I stared confusedly down at Brady, who in turn stared intently at my bag.

But he didn't give a signal. Then it hit me: he can smell the sixty or so dog smells that my bag must have picked up when I lived at the holding centre. "Oh, he can smell my dogs", I explained. "I have sixty!" The guard looked at me in disbelief, the passengers looked at me in horror, taking another step back, and Brady, not sensing any distant cousins or family friends among the aromas, went on his merry way to check out some of the less odorous baggage. The guard chuckled as Brady led him away.

My flight had arrived at around 3.30, but it was 4.30 before we finally got through the lengthy queues at immigration, so I hurried through to the departure gate so I could check out the duty-frees and get a sandwich before my 5.50 flight. But now we have to go through pre-board passenger screening, and this was an America still affected by the events some seven years before. The line was even longer and even slower than immigration … and far more intimidating.

Security agents scanned the lines of people waiting to pass through, and I noticed one who had taken a particular interest in a Spanish-looking fellow behind me. He glared at him sideways almost the entire time, and called another agent over to indicate his concern. I wondered what the agent had noticed that the screening process wouldn't: to board a flight in the US, you have to put everything you can through the x-ray machine, including your shoes!

When it was my turn, I followed the clear instructions and took several minutes to take my laptop out of its bag, put my jacket and sweater in a tray along with my change and my shoes, and later the belt that set off the metal detector as I passed through. Then I had to pass through some strange machine that looked like a phone box but which propelled jets of air over my person to detect explosives.

Not having lived with sixty phone boxes, the machine paid less attention to me than his canine counterpart, and I passed the test with flying colours. I took several minutes to get dressed again while watching the Hispanic guy be sat down and scanned again with some other detectors. I observed his frustration as I headed off to change some money, where I heard my name announced over the speakers, and telling me that I was the last passenger they were waiting for to board.

And so, here I am, somewhere over Central America, with tiny pockets of civilization glistening far below me in the surrounding darkness, wondering how I'm going to get from Guatemala City to Antigua safely so late at night ...

Race Against the Clock

2008-01-15T03:31:00.000+08:00

Oh, dear. It's 3.30 am, I need to be at the airpor t in four hours, I haven't slept yet, and I still have to pack my bags and finish boxing up the rest of my stuff. My dogs, bless 'em, are on my sofa watching me.

That reminds me: I also have to say farewell to 55 other dogs and half a dozen cats, who I will miss more than anything.

Had a nice evening with one of my favourite people, doing a bit of dog stuff and then going for a luverly meal by the river.

So, still not much to write about yet, though missed flights and connections always make for a good read, so don't go away!

Get Packing

2008-01-12T23:41:00.000+08:00

Dear Diary,

I have realised I have a great talent for finding things to that are anything other than the things I really ought to be doing. Right now, that's writing this blog when I should be packing. Much to my disappointment, my worldly goods haven't jumped into boxes by themselves as I'd hoped, and I'm sitting here typing away with my back to the nine years of accumulated allsorts that still await sorting and packing, a task that I've been tackling in dribs and drabs over the last few weeks but which now requires one gallant effort to complete with just two days to go before I fly.

With that in mind, I really must close down this web page, turn up the iTunes, and get packing.

Stay tuned for guaranteed last-minute leaving drama.

Adios for now,

Sean