Amo Antigua!

Well, on the plane, I got talking to a Ken, a lawyer from Santa Barbara who's also on several NGO boards, including the Santa Barbara Wildlife Care Network. Ken and his architect buddy, Allen, were traveling to Antigua to visit Ken's cousin, Matt, so we agreed to share a taxi.

Things have changed a lot since I was last here 12 years ago. For one, we weren't descended upon by mobs of official and illegitimate taxi drivers as we left the airport, and the road to Antigua was very smooth, with emergency stopping lanes, signs to slow down, and traffic lights.

The ride seemed to take no time, and before I knew it, the driver announced that we had arrived in Antigua, and immediately we entered a different world, one that I was very familiar with. I couldn't help but smile as we drove along the cobbled streets lined with single- and two-storey Spanish colonial buildings of terracotta, mustard and ochre.

The first guest house I tried was full, and the second didn't answer my knocking, but on the third try I was fortunate enough to be offered the last room available, and was pleasantly surprised when entering the courtyard to find that this was the same place I had stayed in so many years before. A simple guesthouse with small rooms and cold showers, it appealed to those real travelers, the ones on a budget, and is a great place to meet people, make friends, and find companions with whom to hit the bars and restaurants. In the daytime, guests were rewarded with an outstanding backdrop: the giant Volcan Agua, an extinct volcano that overlooks the town.

My room was US$3, and consisted of a tiny bed, a table, and enough floor space to choose either standing room or a place for my bag. It was all I needed, so I threw my bags down, got changed, and headed out for a bite to eat with my new friends.

I've been living in Taiwan for nine years now, and have come to love the place, but on ambling along the cobblestones of Antigua, with its antiquated but lively feel, full of the most gorgeous courtyarded cafes, restaurants, and bars, I had to wonder if I'd just got used to Taipei; Antigua is the kind of place that really appeals to my senses.

I slept well, and spent the next day exploring, eating, and taking photographs. Every street, every person, every establishment is as photogenic as you could ever want; the town is so picturesque you'd think they'd consulted theme-park designers. But this place is real. Cobblestones are missing, paint is peeling, and some buildings are in need of repair, but the place's dignity is so clearly intact.

One thing I really like about Antigua is that signs are not allowed to impose on the ambience of the place. One street has a McDonald's, but you'd only know that if you passed closely, as no arches are allowed, and no tacky Ronald sits outside waiting to put his arm around resting fast-food addicts. A simple bronze sign tells you what lies behind the large wooden door and simple, iron-clad windows, and the business is none the worse for it, with a steady supply of customers still eagerly queuing up for their fried-food fix.

I like this place. Already I'm thinking about staying.