訓練乖狗教戰守則之四：散步我作主！

（請注意，這邊文章較長，但請務必仔細讀完，對於狗狗的快樂、健康和身心均衡的養成非常有幫助，相對也讓主人樂得輕鬆。）

散步主導權
你會不會像某些狗主人，對於遛狗視如畏途？畢竟，想到手裡牽著一條橫衝直撞、拖著你犁田的狗，讓你的手臂越練越粗壯，走路歪歪斜斜如醉漢，還冒著隨時被車子碾過的危險，並且在心裡暗自祈禱，希望狗狗今天別再做出什麼丟人或危險的事才好，就讓人不想出門遛狗。如果你是這樣的飼主，除了怪自己沒有多帶牠們出門玩（請記得，一天至少帶牠們出門上廁所三次，時間總和至少45分鐘）又能怪誰呢？重點來了，正如同我在守則一中提到的，如果沒有每天帶狗狗散一次長長的步，牠就會把累積起來的多餘精力拿來對付你。

所以，你越不遛狗，狗就越不受控制，最後形成毀滅的惡性循環。但是別擔心，接下來我會教你，如何讓遛狗成為一件輕鬆愉快的事，首先，要先確認你選對工具。

選用正確配備
多數那些表現不佳，喜愛拉扯牽繩的狗，配戴的是同一種牽繩，也就是胸背帶。這種繞過胸口的牽繩，讓狗可以用整個身體的力量來拖著你跑。真正的要訣，在於控制狗的頭部，只要控制了牠的頭部，就算控制牠的罩門。所以你應該選用俗稱「P字鍊」或「活結鍊」這種牽繩，它的神奇訓狗魔力能讓人狗都受益。P字鍊不像一般的「頸圈」，把壓力全部集中在頸部前方，而是讓壓力平均分散在頸部周圍，狗狗戴上的感覺就像被輕輕掐一下。你不妨可以拿自己當實驗對象，套在脖子上往後方或旁邊一拉，就知道沒有被緊勒的感覺（當然，如果狗狗使盡吃奶的力氣拉扯，當然還是有造成窒息的可能，所以一定要避免狗狗拉扯，並且在當下輕輕拉扯牽繩以示警告後，立刻放鬆）。

狗狗有種天性，若是脖子一感受到壓力，就會立刻集中注意在壓力來源，因為這就是狗群中老大展示權威的方式，牠會用嘴輕咬屬下的頸部，狗媽媽也會輕輕叼起幼犬的頸部上方，示意牠們放鬆，同時讓牠們安靜下來。為狗狗繫上P字鍊時，一定要用對方法。你的手拉住牽繩一端，另一端自狗狗頸部後方沿著喉嚨繞一圈，而不是從喉嚨往頸部後方繞。如果是先從頸部後方繞起，只要輕輕一拉繩就能收起活結，一放手就能鬆開活結。如果你先繞過喉嚨部位再往頸部後方，當你鬆手的時候，繩子的圈圈不會自己鬆開，會在狗狗頸部造成壓力。（請想像一下，假使遛狗時，狗狗走在你左方，繩子就會呈P字狀繫住狗狗，如果狗在右方，就會變成b字狀）。

散步就是要趾高氣昂
想要不拉扯就讓狗狗安分走在你身邊，很簡單，讓活結的部位高高停留在狗的頸部，儘可能靠近下巴和耳朵根部的部位，就可以避免狗狗的頭四處胡亂轉動，專心散步。如果狗狗企圖用力拉，牠的頭自然會被活結向上提起，這麼一來就不會被外在事物分散注意力，或者往前暴衝。是否提起活結很重要，提起活結，散步變得輕鬆許多，同時也可以鼓勵狗狗更有自信，因為提起活結讓牠的頭部自動抬高，肢體語言進而反應在心情上，所以千萬別讓膽小的狗養成畏縮走路的姿勢。

養成領袖地位的技巧
另外還有其他幾個好方法，可以讓狗狗接受你的領袖地位，遛起狗來自然也不必保持膽戰心驚。以下有個好玩的方法，可以避免狗狗把你拋諸腦後，全心往前衝，反而會乖乖地尾隨在你身邊或後方，對你服從得五體投地。

（為了方便起見，以下方法我們都假設狗走在你左方，若是你習慣讓狗走在右方，只要把步驟顛倒過來就行。）

讓狗狗走在你左邊，P字鍊放鬆，你自己也要換上冷靜自信的態度和肢體語言，腦中醞釀正面思考，想像你期望中的遛狗畫面，一定會輕鬆又好玩（狗會透過你的肢體，解讀你的心思）。但也要知道事情可能出槌，這時你應該如何迅速作出及時反應，讓情況恢復常軌？這我們在隨後會提到。

從現在開始到遛狗結束，你都不要看牠，因為這麼作會引起牠向你挑戰，原因在於一個好的領袖會心無旁騖，專心前進，不會往其他狗的方向看。等到狗冷靜下來，不會吵著往前衝時，你就可以輕輕拉牠一下開始前進。請想像你前方有一條橫線，一旦你餘光掃到狗狗企圖要僭越那條橫線，立刻向右轉90度，迅速但輕輕地扯牠一下，要牠跟著走（轉90度是因為這樣你拉牠比較方便，若是要後轉的話比較麻煩）。這時請繼續保持疏離，同時注意不能讓狗超車。

狗狗很快就會跟上腳步，說不定還打算再度超越你，這時只要再換一次方向，右轉90度輕扯牠就可以了。記得，進行這些動作時都不要看牠，肩膀往後，抬頭挺胸，專心往前走就是。

不斷重複這個步驟後，你很快就會發現狗狗再也不想超車了。這時你還不能放棄，要保持正面的態度，不把狗放在眼裡，並且享受這種「爾虞我詐」的快感。等你開始掌握訣竅以後，開始訓練牠往左轉，你很快發現狗狗會抬頭看你，等待你的指令，或者對你投以崇拜的眼神，把你當領袖看待。接下來，不管狗狗有沒有超車，都持續練習幾次右轉，再幾次左轉。

放輕鬆
除了偶爾輕輕拉狗以外，多數時候活結都是鬆的。緊繃的牽繩，就意味著緊繃的主從關係，也會引發狗狗想和你來場拔河大賽，所以千萬別這麼做。記得，手臂放鬆，牽繩放鬆（尤其在遇到別的狗狗時，這我們在之後會提到）。

整個練習，說穿了其實就是心機攻防戰。狗狗需要領袖，如果你無法擔起這角色，狗就覺得牠需要起而代之。而讓狗知道誰是老大的方法，就是隨時讓狗處於你身後，當你允許時，牠才能挺身出馬，久而久之牠會知道，自己排老幾，這就是簡單的致勝關鍵。如果你向這個原則妥協，就會在這權力競爭中敗陣下來。所以，散步時要專心，位階自然就會出來（這點適用於狗，也適用於人生。只要心想就會事成，所以要保持正面思考）。

你的態度是關鍵，所以千萬不要動輒抓狂，如果你能控制自己，就能控制狗狗。

自在上路去
只要運用這技巧，我就能在幾分鐘內輕鬆馴服暴衝狗，從來沒有失敗過，不管狗的體型、力道和年齡，通通有效。如果這招對你無效，請把上述內容再讀一次，檢查是否那個步驟出錯。可能是你又往他看去、牽繩拉太緊，或者在腦海裡上演失敗的情形，所以千萬別這麼做！

你可以在較無人煙的馬路或公園練習，只要有足夠的空間讓你轉彎即可。一旦狗狗安分地走在身後或身邊，你就可以開始走直線，請記得，若是狗狗走得太後面、太左邊或太前面，就把牽繩往上、往內拉。不要看牠，只要利用手腕輕輕拉緊就好。

讓一切在掌控之中
你剛開始練習建立領袖地位時，別讓狗狗在地上東聞西聞，隨處亂逛或四處張望。如果狗狗想在樹下尿尿，這時你要繼續走，讓牠尿在下一棵樹下。這麼做是要讓牠知道，你是老大，你說了算，狗狗其實還滿喜歡這招。只要牠接受你的領袖地位以後，你可以賦予牠更多自由，讓牠有更多空間探索環境，但是千萬不能讓牠拉扯牽繩。一出現拉扯，你就把牽繩往後拉，重拾自己的領導地位。

做好萬全準備
總會在有些時候，你發現狗狗不太情願接受你的領袖地位，或者跟你嘻皮笑臉，一副想跟你玩的樣子，這或許是因為牠害怕，或想去向外探索。遇到這種情況，就當作是練習的好機會，準備好幾種應對方式，重新取回你的地位。以下是我的建議：

1. 就算牠表現出害怕，你還是停下來，忽視牠。在狗冷靜下來以前，都不要輕舉妄動。如果狗狗開始放鬆了，不妨給予讚美。

2. 多作幾次變換方向的練習，直到狗狗恢復常態為止。

3. 輕輕把牽繩往上拉，嘴裡發出清脆短促的聲音，吸引狗的注意，然後繼續往前走。

4. 輕摸狗狗一下，或嘴裡發出「ㄘ～」的聲音，迅速讓牠把注意力轉回你身上。

5. 輕推狗狗的脅腹部（位於大腿上方，腰部的地分），這是狗狗「發表聲明」的方式，用腳就可以輕輕做到，但是千萬不要用踢打的，只要輕推牠一下，讓牠微微失去平衡即可。

記得，不要花太多時間在矯正「不良」的行為上，要趕緊往下一步走，專注在散步這件事本身，然後設法讓狗狗跟上來。記得要先發制人，在狗狗開始顯露出分心的前兆，例如看別的狗或貓時，就要出手矯正。

同時也要小心，別把你自己的恐懼投射到狗身上，這種情況屢見不鮮。當你看到可能的問題浮現時，記得加以忽略，抬頭挺胸往前走，千萬不要在潛意識裡幫狗打暗號，要牠準備應付眼前的問題。記得，要管狗，得先管好自己。

「乖狗狗！」
只要狗狗表現良好，就要給牠鼓勵或獎賞點心。說話時語調高昂輕柔，摩擦牠身體側部（摸頭可能會讓牠感覺威脅，摸胸則會讓狗興奮起來）。讓狗狗知道，你對牠的表現感到高興，牠就會更加努力，小心不要挑起牠的玩興就好。一般狗狗都喜歡被讚美，所以千萬不要吝於給予。

如果在遛狗時，能連帶建立起良好的主從關係，你馬上就會發現狗狗的行為大有改善，因為牠不再覺得自己無時不刻都得作主。當主人開始在遛狗時擔任領導角色，會很快發現狗狗們也樂得開心，遛狗成為一件樂事，主人和狗的關係也更加和諧。你也會享受到這些成果，只要保持正面的信心就好。

步驟總結
以下是重點總結

· 能在遛狗時取得領袖地位，就能同樣在其他情況控制狗狗的行為。

· 使用P字鍊，確保活結從頸背部往喉嚨繞，繩子固定在狗的下巴處。

· 輕拉牽繩，和狗溝通。

· 一旦狗試圖想要往前衝，就改變行進方向，輕拉牠後再右轉90度，讓狗走在你身後。

· 如果沒有信念，就很難成功。你先在心裡描摩出理想的遛狗畫面很重要，因為狗狗會讀出你的肢體語言。所以請保持自信、放鬆、冷靜，維持正面思考。

· 如果你有信心，不輕言放棄，狗也會接受你的領袖地位。

· 練習的時候，要控制狗狗的一舉一動，如果狗狗按照指示聽話，可以給予牠更多自由。

· 狗其實比較喜歡有領袖可以跟隨。

· 隨時都要做好準備，證明你的領袖地位。

· 在任何不良行為出現前，先發制人，加以矯正。

· 不要耽溺在錯誤中，隨時調整心情再出發，恢復正軌，享受和狗狗散步的樂趣。

· 享受散步樂趣，別把你自己的恐懼投射在狗身上，控制自己的念頭，就能控制狗。

· 狗狗表現好的話千萬不要吝於給予讚美。

請記得，遇到更好的領袖，狗狗其實很願意交出控制權和領袖地位。

訓練乖狗教戰守則之三：老大優先！

下一個訓狗守則很簡單，但建議你要回來重複閱讀，確定把細節都弄懂，尤其是不能讓狗搶第一個出門這部份。

優先進入新環境

帶狗出去散步的時候，是誰先出門？是你還是狗？如果你的狗散步老是暴衝，讓你手臂上的二頭肌越來越壯，又或者牠老去找別的狗麻煩，甚至對某些東西表現出恐懼，那大概因為搶先出門的正是牠。很多人總是跟我說同樣的故事：「多多在家裡很乖，但只要一出門就像脫韁野馬，超級難控制。」如果你家的狗也是這樣，或者完全相反，也就是在外像條蟲，在家裡像條龍的話，你就該好好找出原因了。

每當面對新環境的時候，不管是在戶外、到獸醫院、穿過小巷子、進入狗公園、下樓梯，或只是進入自家花園，你都要走第一。這麼做不是因為當狗群的領袖一定要走第一，事實上狗狗的領導能力比我們好多了，就算牠們位在隊伍中間或後方，還是可以帶隊帶得嚇嚇叫。這麼做的背後原因比較複雜，但也比較有趣。

順應各種場合的優質領袖

在義大利他們針對流浪狗做過調查，發現每群狗通常有一、兩個領袖，帶隊的通常是母狗，但是有些狗群在不同場合有不同領袖。如果在巢穴附近是母狗當頭的話，去外頭擴張領域、驅趕入侵者或覓食這類的工作，可能就是另一隻狗的責任。這麼做可以有效確保狗群不管在什麼時候都能維持壯大，其他的成員也能視情況需要，隨機應變接受不同的領袖。

如果你想在任何情況取得領袖地位，最好的方法就是走進任何地方都搶第一，不讓狗有趁隙而入的空間。如果每次出去散步你都允許狗搶第一出門，拖著你在後面跑的話，那不管牠在家有多乖，出了門牠就認為自己重新取回領袖地位，偏偏牠的能力又沒好到可以決定什麼時候該追、咬、吠、害怕或攻擊，沒多久就會惹出一大堆麻煩來。

門口決定老大

所以，如果你想清清楚楚跟狗表明，你就是說話算話的老大（在下命令時務必保持冷靜自持，下一章節會提到），那麼解決方法很簡單：在出門之前，先把狗管好，保持冷靜態度，你先走出門，狗狗等你打信號後再跟上來。接著你把門關上，準備出發散步。

那我們又該如何讓狗狗乖乖聽話呢？我們要下命令，讓狗乖乖坐著，等門打開，直到人出去為止嗎？不必，發號施令不見得是維持領袖地位的最好方法，最好還是讓狗自己去摸懂規則，並用自己的語言告訴你，牠已經接受你控制了門戶並率先走出去的事實。如果你確實做好下面步驟，狗狗自然就會聽話。

如何先出門

（要記得，仔細閱讀以下內容，按部就班做到，絕對有效，如果想看實際操作，可以參考我網站上的影片）

如果你能把狗召喚過來，並為牠繫上牽繩，而不必窮追著牠跑只為幫牠套上牽繩的話，出門這一步就容易多了。首先你站在門邊保持冷靜自信，等狗乖乖過來穿上牽繩（我知道這對很多狗來說十分困難，如果是這樣的話，以最短的時間趨前為牠繫上牽繩，動作越快越好）。你也可以下指令要牠過來，但只要一次就夠了，不要唸個不停。如果狗狗肯這樣讓你上牽繩，就表示牠已接受你的領袖地位。

把狗牽到門口，若是牠搶先在你前方，等你過來開門，甚至開使用爪子抓門時，你必須插手奪回「門」的所有權。設法站在狗和門之間，可以適度使用牽繩把狗拉開，讓你有空間前進。等空間挪出來了，放鬆拉繩，冷靜確定地朝你的狗位置走去，嘴裡不忘發出「啊！」或「ㄟ！」的聲音。不要作任何與展現權威無關的東西，像是大吼大叫、胡亂下指令、發脾氣、提高音量等等，因為這只讓狗覺得你在失控。也可以試試對牠比著食指，意思像在說：「你想都別想。」的樣子，或狗的頭上擺個東西，讓牠覺得「上頭有人管」而服從，又或者輕輕用手指推一下牠胸口，有點像狗在「咬」的動作，要牠聽話。

建立新的互動
你的狗這時就會後退一步，一臉困惑的樣子，搞不懂你出什麼新招，然後坐下，或者站著等你會有什麼新花樣。你接著打開門，要有心理準備這時狗應該會打算一個箭步衝出去，這時候你應該要和之前阻止狗靠近門一樣，只是再加上非常嚴肅的表情和肢體語言，好像在說：「不要作得太過火！」這不會讓狗怕你，而是更尊敬你。接著要牠再退後幾步，準備要踏出門去的你，確保牠待在原地乖乖等候你下一個指令。狗狗通常很快就會毫無疑問地接受新領袖，而這也是我們很快成功的原因。

現在你應該要側著身站在門和狗之間，確保兩者中間暢通無阻，這很重要，因為你想讓狗出於對你的尊敬而留在原地，而不只是因為你站在中間擋路。打開門，往前踏一步，用同樣方法讓狗退後，不過你很快就發現狗狗學得很快，牠們會先看看門、看看你，然後後退等著你下指令。走出門，回頭看看狗有沒有打算衝上來，這時只消輕輕一拉狗鍊或下個簡單命令就可以做到。可以的話，等狗看到別的地方以後，再叫牠走出來，因為這樣就不是牠「要求」或「拜託」你讓牠出來了，這兩者是有差別的。

進入新的情況
走出門以後，還是要把狗控制好，因為此時牠們可能以為可以趁機搶在你之前衝出去。只要輕輕拉著牠，一副忽略牠的樣子，默不關心地一直等到牠恢復冷靜為止。接著把門關上，等狗冷靜下來不再躁動，才開始散步，並輕輕拉著狗給牠打方向。要記得，每次拉狗鍊就要立刻鬆開，這樣可以避免雙方拉扯，狗狗也不會產生抗拒之心。出發以後給牠大量讚美或小點心，讓牠知道你很高興牠願意接受你這個領袖。

只要練習幾次之後，你很快就成掌握流程，狗也能理解你的用意。千萬不要失去耐性或對牠低聲下氣，也不要妄自加入一些自以為有用的步驟。要取得控制權，就要保持一切簡單扼要，你第一，場合第二，接下來才是狗。每到一個新領域、環境或場合時就按照這步驟走，讓狗知道事情沒有商量的餘地，你就是老大，而牠的喜怒哀樂也在合理控制下。這個簡單的方法在什麼情況都能適用，也能幫你的狗狗認同新的階級地位。千萬別同情牠，如果毫無頭緒的人是你，他就會起而稱王，到最後累的還是你。

重點整理

• 你要先出門
• 狗在不同情況下有不同領袖
• 如果讓狗搶先出門，牠會認為自己是這個新領域的老大
• 每隻狗都有自己的性格弱點，如果你當牠的老大，只能讓牠稱王，並坐視牠的問題越來越大
• 狗狗很快就能接受新的領導者
• 取得領袖地位時，務必保持冷靜自信疏離
• 讓狗走過來上牽繩，不是你走過去
• 用手勢和態度讓狗退後，而不是蠻力
• 輕扯，不是用力拉；輕拍，不是用力推
• 隨時準備好面對狗的挑戰
• 趁狗冷靜乖巧的時候，再叫牠出門
• 狗狗表現好的時候不要吝於給予獎賞
• 享受你的領袖地位吧！

訓練乖狗教戰守則之二：善用關注!

注意囉，所有狗主人！

狗跟人一樣，希望能得到關注。要察覺這點不容易，但你一旦作對了，會發現一切都很值得，也能一再鼓勵狗狗表現出正確行為。就像只要你忽略小孩，久而久之，他會尋求別的方法來引起你注意，甚至開始調皮搗蛋，為的就是換取大人的反應，而他也樂此不疲。有很多小孩，就是因為太常得到大人反應，進而培養出壞習慣，這時若不斷指責或處罰，只會給他們更多關注，在不知不覺中鼓勵他們的行為，變成惡性循環。同樣的，對我們的狗狗也是。

我們可以使用很多獎賞方式，來鼓勵狗狗某些特定行為，不管是給牠小點心、摸摸肚皮、大力讚美、開心碎念、散步或玩耍等，都能讓牠們高興飛上天。但常被忽略的獎賞方式，則是「給予關注」，只因我們從來沒好好想過給予關注的時機和方式，思考不夠周密的結果，就會造成諸多問題。

這裡有個相當受用的訓狗守則：只要狗狗表現出你所期望的行為，就特別注意牠；若是牠表現不好，就加以忽略（或短暫糾正）。很簡單，也相當符合常識，但我們卻很少付諸實行

謹慎使用你對牠的關注和忽視

以下就是典型的例子，在我幫主人訓練狗狗時經常碰到的問題是：每當有客人上門，狗狗就往人家身上撲，我問主人怎麼解決，回答則是對狗狗大吼大叫，不斷把狗推開，重複下指令，或把狗帶到另一個房間後把門關上。我再問，等客人踏進家門，狗狗也安靜下來，接下來會發生什麼事，通常得到的回答是，主人會小聲請客人儘量輕聲細語，才不會再度激起狗狗的情緒。其實，說到如何讓狗狗在客人上門時冷靜以對，這個作法是完全錯誤的！

把恐懼轉化成自信

另一個如何正確使用注意力的重要方式，比較難懂，甚至更難實行，但是效果立即可見而且影響深遠，尤其當你碰到的是個性膽怯的狗。例如，有的狗出門時很怕碰到陌生人，只要有人從遠方走來，狗狗就會向後退縮、拉扯牽繩、驚慌失措，儘可能躲避對方。這時候主人通常會用冷靜的語氣跟狗說話，不斷重複：「沒事，沒事，好乖。」以試圖撫平牠的情緒。但是當狗狗安安靜靜走在主人身邊時，主人卻什麼都不作也不說。這樣一來，主人便在無形中鼓勵狗狗的恐懼行為，卻沒在狗狗冷靜穩重時給予獎賞，問題的癥結就在這裡！

我在訓練這些狗狗的時候，會沈靜又自信地拉著牠們的鍊子，同時要主人限制自己的言行（甚至連想都不准想），不要介入。狗狗一開始和我離這麼近，總是嚇到失神，但我什麼都沒作，只輕輕扯一下牽繩（這裡所謂的「扯」，就是快速而輕微的拉一下，然後立即放鬆，千萬不要死命拉著牽繩，這樣只會製造緊張，加深狗狗的抗拒），專心帶著狗往前走。 如果狗狗表現出恐懼，我會儘量忽略，並維持堅定自信的態度，甚至像個高貴神聖的領袖，滿心期望下面的人自動跟上來。通常這招就跟變魔術一樣神奇，原本狗狗就一心期待強而有力的領導出現，帶領牠穿越眼前的「可怕逆境」，這下子牠當然會乖乖走在我身邊，讓主人瞠目結舌大呼不可思議，自己的狗居然乖乖聽一個陌生人的話。

展現冷靜自信

接下來我會帶著狗狗走，嘴裡邊給牠甜言蜜語，狗狗也會越來越開心自信，但我也不忘專注在散步上。只要狗狗一有退縮的意思，我就會別開頭，輕輕拉一下他，記得絕對不要看牠，因為這不但是給予牠關注，同時也允許牠挑戰你權威的意思。若是這時有人來了，我

知道狗狗會驚慌，我會輕輕把牽繩往上同時往我身體方向拉，嘴裡一邊發出「啊！」或「ㄟ！」的聲音，翻譯成狗語來說就是：「不行！」（對說中文的人來說，採用「四聲」的字眼最有效，邊作邊跺腳也有用，任何其他語詞對狗來說都太輕微，起不了作用）。我有時會把腳擋在狗身後，以阻止牠後退，接著再讓牠坐下，等陌生人從身邊經過。只要狗狗表現出些微「冷靜以待」的樣子，就對牠說好話或摸摸頭。若是牠顯現出恐懼的跡象，就輕輕拉一下，或輕吼一聲「啊！」或「ㄟ！」。重複作個幾次，狗狗就能接受路人經過，過沒多久，我通常能讓狗狗在有人經過時很有自信地自動坐下，或忽略那些躁動的小朋友。

究竟是為什麼，效果如此神速又顯著呢？簡單來說，就是「（以高音調的語氣）鼓勵善行，忽視（或以短促低沈語氣糾正）惡行」，狗狗可以很快接受新領袖，並快速對主人的關注起反應，這也是我們能迅速達到矯正行為目的的不二法門。狗主人或許很難接受自己過去在錯誤時候給予的仁心，竟會釀成狗狗的恐懼或不安。我發現，要改的確不容易，但若你真心想要幫助牠們，就必須克制自己的本能，避免在狗狗出現不安和恐懼時，給予不當的注意力和情感。

善用神奇的「注意力法則」！

同樣的方法也適用於任何訓狗守則和任何情況。例如，若是狗狗喜歡往客人身上撲，你就應該趁牠安靜下來時給予溫和鼓勵，並且請客人完全忽略狗狗又撲又跳的舉止（不看、不摸不說話，完全表現出漠然的樣子，好像狗狗根本不存在），如果狗狗把爪子伸出來，轉身迴避即可（千萬不要用手把牠們拉開，導致牠以為你要跟牠玩）。只要狗狗一安靜下來，就請客人給予正面鼓勵，若是狗狗又要撲上來，立刻轉身迴避，讓牠們的腳落地，這一招超有用，試試看就知道。

結論就是…

在這裡和你分享一個我生平聽到最受用的建議，不要光是試圖「矯正」問題狗狗，同時也記得要努力讓生活過得更美好。若有不喜歡的事情不斷發生，告訴自己：「這都是我造成的。」並且自問：「我到底作了什麼，才會鼓勵牠這樣為所欲為？」很可能是你在不自覺情況下鼓勵狗狗這麼做的，誠實地、仔細地好好想一想吧，到底是哪裡出了錯，找出問題根源，加以調整，在適當時機善用注意力，必要時採取忽略，接下來就等著看問題逐漸獲得解決。

快去給予狗狗一些溫暖又平靜的關注吧，前提是牠真的表現良好喔。若是牠出現興奮、跋扈等惡行，就忽略或簡短糾正。告訴我效果如何，我很期待你和狗狗之間產生美好的化學變化！

Lucky Needs your Help

While heading home in a taxi late Friday night, we just happened to glance out the window as we sped past a black dog, lying hunched and looking scared at the edge of the elevated expressway. This is one of the most dangerous places to try and rescue a dog—dangerous for both dog and person—so a rescue in such a situation can only be performed by a professional. Or someone stupid. So I decided to try.

We stopped the taxi as it came down from the expressway and dodged cars to get to the same edge, though a good half a kilometer away from the dog. We then spent about ten minutes slowly walking up along the kerbside, stopping to hug the crash barrier each time cars and trucks got too close. To those speeding past, it must have looked as though we were considering jumping.

No one called the police, however, and we finally made it to within about ten meters of the dog, who was precariously close to the wheels of passing, speeding vehicles.

The danger in this situation is that, while trying to rescue the dog, it's very likely that he or she could get spooked and run into the speeding traffic. There is also a very real danger of either the dog or rescuer being clipped by a passing vehicle.

We put our bags down on the kerb and waited for a break in the traffic to run up the middle lane and around to the other side of the dog—the idea being that, this way, if spooked, he would stick to the edge and, if he could run, he would head towards the closest exit.

We slowly edged towards him, again hugging the barrier, and it soon became apparent that the dog was calm—and badly injured. And also very happy to see us. As we got closer, he dragged himself closer to us and lay his head on my foot.

He had visible injuries to his head and back legs, including a bloody eye. We had to get him to a vet as soon as possible. A leash was put over his head, but, when he tried to stand, he yelped in pain and collapsed again. So we very carefully wrapped the leash around his muzzle to stop him biting and lifted him up to carry him back off the elevated expressway. He was heavy—about 26 kilograms, but thankfully not struggling too much.

But progress was extremely slow and very scary, as we had to try and walk forwards while constantly watching behind us so we could stop and lean against the barrier each time vehicles got too close. It was while turned and looking at the oncoming traffic that we heard a kind voice behind us: "Are you OK? What's happened?" The young driver of a minivan full of his sisters and friends had stopped in our lane just ahead of us, with their hazard lights on, and they were coming to help us. It was an incredibly welcome sight, and I explained what had happened as they guided me into the safety of their van, insisting on changing their plans so they could drive us to the 24-hour emergency vet in Neihu, about 25 minutes away. They were all animal lovers—some with many dogs of their own—and wanted to do whatever was necessary to help this poor black Lab, who they decided to name Lucky.

We finally arrived at the vet, and Lucky was examined immediately, with blood tests and x-rays taken. His injuries are extensive: his face and legs are scarred, he has concussion and air in his chest cavity, a dangerously high liver count . . . and a badly broken pelvis. But he cannot undergo surgery until his liver count is down.

We are hoping to move him to our regular vet, YangMing Vet Hospital in Tienmu, to have the surgery performed once it is safe to do so. We will do all we can to bring Lucky back to health. But his vet bill is already high because of using an emergency vet service, and we desperately need some help to pay for that.

If you would like to support Lucky's recovery, please contact Anri Sung (tagged in this album) to learn how you can go about that. You are also welcome to visit Lucky and pay the vet yourself, though do contact Anri to find out if Lucky has been moved yet if you want to see him. (Update: I've added donation info below.)

Huge thanks to 龍也 and all the pretty ladies in his minivan for being kind enough—and brave enough—to stop and rescue us!

We'll be posting updates about Lucky's progress, so watch this space. You can also join the Taiwan Animal S.O.S. page to learn about other animal rescues. :)

http://www.facebook.com/TaiwanAnimalSOS

Thank you!

Street view of rescue location, thanks to Google Maps:
http://maps.google.com/maps?q=taipei&hl=en&ll=24.997958%2C121.535351&spn=0.001145%2C0.002411&sll=37.0625%2C-95.677068&sspn=32.472848%2C79.013672&z=19&layer=c&cbll=24.998262%2C121.535331&panoid=_qq_EgQEQyUA_v63PSvEDQ&cbp=12%2C202.02%2C%2C0%2C19.92

UPDATE 3/JUL/2011: The vets at National say that Lucky's kidneys are OK, but his liver count is still very high, though lower than yesterday. He is no longer vomiting, so they will now try giving him liquid food. Dr Yang at YangMing Vet Hospital will examine Lucky's x-rays tomorrow in preparation for performing the surgery to repair his smashed pelvis.

To donate directly (and only) to Lucky's medical bill (our other expenses are minimal and we fund-raise separately for those):

宋安莉 Anri Sung
paypal: Anri0408@gmail.com
Acct.no: 124-20-046128-9
Bank code: 008 (華南商業銀行 Hua Nan Commercial Bank)
東台北分行 Tung-Taipei Branch

Lucky thanks you!

UPDATE 5/July/2011: Dr. Yang at YangMing Vet Hospital did more x-rays and found that Lucky's spine is broken. It's likely he'll not walk again. But we will keep trying, and we'll get more opinions to see if anything can be done. If not, then Lucky will become a wheelchair dog, that's all.

UPDATE 6/JULY/2011: Lucky has a future—maybe not the future he envisioned, but a future nonetheless. As someone with disabled dogs myself, I can tell you that they accept their new situation and simply get on with enjoying life any way they can.

WE NEED TO RAISE FUNDS TO PAY FOR LUCKY'S SURGERY. Although he will probably not walk again, we decided to fix his pelvis to give him greater comfort and prevent further problems down the line. Our vets did an outstanding job, and the surgery went well. If you would like to contribute, we really need your support, and every little helps—it really does.

We have created a ChipIn account so you can see exactly how much we need and how much we have raised. The total may change from time to time to take into account other expenses or donations received through other channels, but we will always notify of the changes on the ChipIn page, which is right here:

http://luckthelab.chipin.com/lucky-the-lab

Again, every little helps, and we are working hard already to find Lucky a home for life no matter what his physical limitations. He thanks you!

Nurturing a Better Dog, Trick No. 6: Eat First!

Leaders Get the Richest Pickings

One of the most important occasions for dogs to establish hierarchy is at mealtimes. Simply and understandably, the alphas have the best or first pickings; it ensures they can stay strong to lead the group while reminding the rest of the pack of the status quo. While some lower-ranking dogs may try to edge in to take what the lead dog is guarding, the alpha will put them back in their place with a snarl, a growl, a bearing of the teeth, or maybe even a snap. Some people believe their dog already respects them as leader because he or she will sit nicely and not eat until told to, but this is obedience, not leadership, and your dog may actually think that he or she has got YOU trained to give your food up just by sitting nicely. Once the food is on the floor, your dog knows it’s his or hers and not yours, so that waiting until you say ‘OK!’ really has little bearing on how he or she perceives his or her status.

Going Back to the Wild


At 1:00 of this video is a great clip of British wolf expert Shaun Ellis asserting his role as pack leader to four adult-sized wolves he has hand-reared. Hunching over the carcass of a deer in which he had secreted a sealed bag of all the prime bits, cooked for his benefit, Shaun sees off several challenges for the prized organs by snarling and growling in the face of a large wolf who is doing the same in an attempt to force Shaun to back down. If he had shown fear or weakness and allowed the challenger to move in on the best pieces, it would have been a clear indication that he is not fit to lead. But he didn’t; he defended the organs and his status as pack leader remained assured, and balance was maintained within his pack.

How to Prepare

So, for this lesson, you need to first procure the carcass of a deer or any similar large prey animal—no, just kidding; all you need to prepare for this technique is a small snack, such as some cookies or fruit, or, if you prefer, just get ready to do some award-winning acting before a drooling canine audience. Let’s assume you prepare your dog’s food in the kitchen, and it is something that your dog is always hungry for (a natural diet of raw, meaty bones is not only extremely healthy for your dog, but always scoffed heartily—wolfed down, if you will—unlike processed pellets that we tend to feed out of convenience and misplaced trust in advertising; but more on that in a later article). Simply prepare your dog’s food bowl while completely ignoring him or her, and place it on the kitchen counter next to your snack when ready. Remember, if your dog is, like most dogs, tired of eating processed convenience food, do this exercise with something he or she will relish, such as a raw egg, or a piece of meat, or anything else that dogs love (and is healthy for them, if possible).

Wait While Ignoring

Now, your dog has probably up until now been given his or her food immediately after it’s prepared, or perhaps after telling you to give it to him or her by sitting nicely or staring (you thought you were controlling your dog at this point, didn’t you; you weren’t—your dog is under the impression that all it takes is a little trick or two of his or her own to get the food he or she was coveting). This time, however, you will completely ignore your dog after the food is prepared, and instead of giving it to him or her, you will act aloof and pretend to eat from the bowl. You can eat the snack you put the bowl next to or just pretend to be eating the dog’s food, but the whole time you must ignore your dog completely. If he or she makes a noise, ignore or correct with an ‘Ah!’ or ‘Eh!’ sound. If your dog tries to jump up, step into him or her making the same abrupt ‘Eh!’ or ‘Ah!’ sound as though to say ‘Hey! Back off!’ or ‘Don’t you dare!’ (Don’t say these things; project the attitude behind them using posture and tone). Then act aloof again and continue to pretend to eat the dog’s food.

Reward Respectful Behaviour

You will notice out of the corner of your eye that your dog will stop demanding so much now and will probably be sitting nicely. That’s great, but not good enough—all the time your dog is staring at you or the food, it is a demand to have it, so keep on pretending to eat until the moment your dog looks away, even briefly. Now, you could put the food down at this point and then walk away (don’t watch your dog eat, as it will seem like you want the food he or she is eating, and, as you’re not getting it, your status will be lowered). But better is to wait even longer until your dog shows absolutely no interest in the food. This may take a little time, but if you’re prepared to wait, it will happen. Your dog will likely turn his or her back to you and lie down—a clear signal that he or she respects and trusts you. If you wait until that moment to put the food down, then you will find your dog listens to you so much better later.

Act, Dammit! Act!

When practicing this trick, really put on an Academy Award-winning performance: act totally regal, with head up and showing aloofness; totally ignore your dog; really pretend to enjoy eating the food that your dog wants; and act out feeling full with what you’ve pretended to eat and no longer wanting any more just before you put the bowl down. Have fun with it. Enjoy the various reactions your dog will go through as you demonstrate your top-dog status with his or her food. And have a very clear vision in your mind of how you expect this to turn out but also know how you will correct any unwanted behaviours so they don’t take you too far off track. Really have fun playing at being the alpha—just fake it til you make it—and realise that you being your dog's leader is in fact rewarding for both of you.

As I Say Every Time, Consistency is Key

Do this with you dog every day, with his or her food, with treats, with toys, even when he or she wants to go for a walk, and you will feel a whole much better relationship develop between you as you are now acting more consistently with your rightful role as the one calling the shots. Get all your household members to practice this, and even have house guests do it if your dog has shown issues with strangers (remember to have them walk your dog too). After a while, your dog will assume the non-demanding, respectful position almost as soon as the food is ready, but you should still wait a while to give the impression that you are eating first—you could, though, praise him or her at this point if it doesn’t provoke excitement.

Assumed Leadership

This is the clearest, most powerful way to show your dog where he or she belongs within your household hierarchy. But here’s something that I so often see when teaching people these tricks at their homes: after I have lead the dog on a walk after going through doors first and totally controlled his or her behaviour, he or she will usually assume a non-demanding, non-eyeballing position as soon as I prepare his or her food, even if he or she had always got excited at feeding times previously. So don’t be surprised if this goes much better than you’d imagined; if you have been practicing the previous lessons properly, your dog may already know never to challenge you for food.

Summary

Here's a quick recap of the most important points:

• Meals are the most powerful times to establish hierarchy
• Alphas eat first and get the prime bits
• Having your dog sitting and staring at his bowl until you say 'OK' is NOT leadership in a dog's eyes
• Put your dog's food next to a snack you want to eat
• Pretend to eat your dog's food by eating the snack or just acting as though eating from his or her bowl
• Act aloof and ignore throughout, but watch your dog from the corner of your eye or in a reflection
• Really act the role
  
• When your dog stops staring, you can pretend you've finished and put the bowl down
• BETTER: Wait until your dog not only stops staring, but also turns his or her back and/or lies down
• Correct any jumping up but otherwise ignore
• Do not watch your dog eat, as you don't want to give the impression that your dog now has something you want but can't get
• If your dog is understandably bored with grain-based, convenience foods, such as dry or canned food, consider a natural diet of raw, meaty bones (more info in the next series) or healthy treats that you know he or she likes
• Be consistent—that goes for others in the house too
  

So, enjoy your dog’s food (well, pretend to), and let me know how it goes!

Seán

訓練乖狗教戰守則之一：遛狗

把精力遛光
對很多家有惡犬的主人來說，訓練狗狗的方法很簡單：給牠大量運動就對了。「就這樣嗎？」你可能會問。「多數情況是這樣沒錯。」這是我的回答。大家對養狗常有一個錯誤認知，那就是以為狗狗需要住在有大院子的大房子裡，才有空間可以奔跑。所以我常聽到有意來認養狗狗的人，推託說因為「我住在小公寓，這樣對狗不公平。」而不能養狗。其實，狗狗常因為覺得擁有很大的「領土」，必須肩負起守衛責任而感到壓力沈重。至於那些因為主人「施恩」而每天被限制在院子裡活動的狗狗，也快樂不到哪去。

最快樂、身心最均衡的狗狗，在於能擁有一小塊自己專屬的領土，並且每天散上45分鐘的步。沒錯，要45分鐘，當然這45分鐘可以拆成很多段來進行，尤其如果你的狗狗只能在外頭上廁所的話，本來就應該一天帶他們出去散步三次，如果狗狗不到八個月，散步次數則更多。不過，如果能一次散夠長的步是最好的，對人狗都有益處，因為狗狗可以藉由正常的管道抒發身心活力。事實上，如果你不能每天提供狗狗足夠的運動，就算上再多的訓練課程，效果也很有限。

滿足牠的需要
狗狗有向外探索的天性，想到處聞聞剛有什麼東西經過，不顧一切的往前衝，滿足自己對外頭世界的好奇心，並且和親愛的主人一起分享，這時候，為牠牽起牽繩就能讓人狗都享受到這份樂趣。被關越久的狗狗，會壓抑越多的情緒，若是多餘的精力不能得到正當抒發，就會演變成任何你不想見識的邪惡力量，像是破壞行為、吠叫、緊張或攻擊性。難怪，在我養的狗中，一聽到外頭有風吹草動就吠叫的，通常是殘障狗，因為牠們不能透過散步來宣洩精力和獲得刺激。而在我住的社區中，那些一看到路人經過就叫個不停、低吼示威或動輒抓狂的狗，則是那些「有幸」住在院子裡，卻哪裡也去不了的狗。

想像一下，如果成天被限制在自家內，或甚至只能在院子或花園裡行動，完全不能走出家門看看外面的世界，你會變得多麼憤怒和緊張，接著開始出現怪異的行為，不是想盡辦法宣洩精力或尋求刺激，就是自我封閉，成天悶悶不樂。你的狗也是，牠們每天若能跟在領袖身邊散個步，就會感覺滿足快樂。當然像玩撿球或拔河遊戲，也有助於幫助抒發精力，但是長長的散步還是最有效的方法。

一獨處就容緊張或吠叫的狗狗，事先帶牠散步最有效。就連最愛搗蛋或具有攻擊性的狗，當精力得到宣洩時，很容易就冷靜下來。一條疲累的狗，就是好狗。就算生性神經兮兮的狗也不例外。狗狗的行為，會隨著散步品質和時間的增加而改善。

控制問題
但就多數情況來說，遛狗最好繫上牽繩。這是因為，如果你想要矯正狗狗的不當行為，就必須先控制牠（同時也要控制自己的觀念、肢體語言和心情）。另外，若你遛狗的方式正確，不但可以鞏固自己的領袖地位，也可以訂定整個團隊（其實也就是人與狗）的行為準則，包括該去注意什麼，該追逐什麼，該對什麼吠叫，該小心什麼，或該攻擊什麼等。只要繫上牽繩並在適當時候加以阻止，就可避免狗狗去追咬其他狗，因為在遛狗途中狗狗已經得到清楚的指示，那種展開追逐帶來的刺激快感，已經得到克制與遏止。同樣的，這個道理也可以應用在管教其他不當行為上，就連最惡霸的狗也不例外。

不過，問題來了。如果你家的狗毛病很多，遛狗可能會變成一件令人頭痛的事，因為狗狗老是會暴衝，不是撲在路人身上，就是閃車，或者對其他「路狗」吠叫。幸好，只要繼續照著我接下來的守則作，就可以擁有一條氣定神閒、寸步不離乖乖走在你身旁的模範狗，只專心享受散步的快樂，完全不理會外在的誘惑。不相信嗎？你遲早會改觀，只要照著作，馬上會看到成效。

主人也受益
科學已證實，每天散步就是讓狗狗快樂、健康、長壽又抒壓的秘訣。如果你一直視遛狗如畏途，覺得這是一件無聊苦差事的話，不妨趕緊改觀，把它看做是狗狗送你的每日驚喜，有助於你出去呼吸新鮮空氣、舒展筋骨，把一天的壓力拋諸腦後。更棒的是，這是免費的活動！只要狗狗可以乖乖的走在你身邊，我保證，就算再討厭遛狗的人，也會開始從中獲得樂趣，而且「感覺良好」，尤其你發現人狗之間的關係也因此大為改善。很多人都說，隨著遛狗的時間增加，自己和狗狗的關係也變得更緊密。

所以，趕快關上電腦螢幕，把目光放到狗狗身上吧。問問自己，牠現在想作什麼？想想看，只要每天重複做一件簡單小事，就可以改善狗狗的行為，又可以增進自己的健康快樂，多麼棒！快拿起牽繩，對那個四腳同伴微笑，散一個長長的步吧。一個簡單步驟，就可以培養出一條人見人愛的乖狗，也可以讓自己的人生更樂活，快點和牠一起到外面的世界闖一闖吧。

祝你遛狗愉快！

訓練乖狗十大教戰守則

如何克服狗狗的行為問題
從今天開始，我會分享一系列有關如何教養狗狗的文章。不管你家寶貝有什麼行為上的問題，舉凡沒大沒小、具攻擊性、偏執行為、走路暴衝、吠叫或破壞家具等毛病，只要照著我提供的十個簡單步驟作，就能解決問題。其中有些方法相當基本，主要在激發狗狗的優點，有些方法則是讓狗狗知道你的主人地位，明白只有你才可以訂規矩。儘管這些方法簡單，但你很快就會發現，實行起來的效果十分驚人。

當個稱職成功的主人，最重要的是在狗狗出現不良行為時保持沈著冷靜，以自信的肢體語言和語氣加以指正；另外也要懂得以開放的身體姿勢和嘉獎語氣來鼓勵狗狗某些行為。千萬不要對狗吼叫或拳腳相向，因為這只會讓狗更怕你，進而衍生出更多不當行為。記得，重點是要以平和、穩重的態度，讓狗狗分辨對與錯。

改變比想像的快
狗狗學習速度很快，但問題在於，很多時候我們並不知道自己已在無形中「教導」了牠們。很多人曾請我幫忙矯正行為嚴重偏差的狗狗，我卻發現，這些主人早在不知不覺中鼓勵狗狗的惡行，同時也阻礙狗狗「向善」。我會教大家如何「撥亂為正」，讓狗狗學會「分辨善惡」。

好消息是，狗狗很快就會接受新的領導者，並決定自己的位階，所以你會發現，狗狗許多行為問題會立刻獲得解決。只要你表現出好領袖的風範，狗狗自然會跟從。大多數的狗狗都很樂意交出領導旗幟，扮演跟隨者的角色，如此一來身上所背負的壓力和焦慮就可以大為減輕。但你同時要瞭解和接受的是，狗狗每天都會挑戰領袖地位，這麼做不是出於輕視或故意作對，而是出於天性，牠們想確定這個團隊結構是否穩固，領袖是否可靠。如果發現情況不對，就要有新的領袖取而代之，而這時就會產生問題，因為並非人人都是當領袖的料，強出頭的結果就是自己妄下決定，無故亂叫、膽怯、追逐或攻擊等。只要你堅守自己的規則，狗狗自然會服從；只要你一鬆懈，狗狗就會趁機測試你的底線，然後開始打鬼主意想要篡位。

這也難怪，有很多緊張兮兮的狗，主人卻是好的不得了，這當然是因為主人不願在必要的時候，例如狗狗出現不當行為時，對狗狗採取嚴格管教。有些人以為，一旦自己開始出手管教或展現領導地位，狗狗就會離他而去，這真是無稽的想法。狗狗需要冷靜沈著的主人，才能感到安心。當我把牽繩套在一隻緊張或焦慮的狗狗身上，然後只輕輕拖住牠，阻止牠後退、拉扯時，接下來發生的事常會讓主人大呼不可思議：因為狗狗不但立刻停止拉扯，還會朝我走來，如果我當時坐在地上的話，牠甚至會爬到我腿上獻上擁抱。這全是因為我展現出主人所沒有的冷靜沈著。所以當主人親眼見到原本的「惡犬」突然會向陌生人示好時，他們才明白，所謂的「好主人」就是必須順應狗狗的需要，就算有違人類的本性也不例外。

而這也是身為團體領袖必須具備的特質：訓練狗不能靠直覺反應，而是要靠牠們的語言讓牠們瞭解誰是老大，規矩是什麼。每當我出面管教一隻狗時，會設法改變狗狗看待主人的眼光，而主人也學會在必要的時候保持態度堅定，在該放鬆時候盡情和狗狗一起享樂。

你也作得到
所以，主人們，開始準備上課囉。以下課程內容全都根據過去我幫狗狗矯正行為問題的經驗而來。有些人上過課以後，很快就能找到問題關鍵，作出必要的改變，就算只靠自己也能快速改善狗狗的問題。我希望你也能快速上手，並且在過程中提出觀察、評論或發問，這樣我也能修改課程內容，讓大家都受益。有些人必須看到實際操作才能吸收，所以我隨後也會附上教學影片，但也有些人認為自家的狗狗天生就與眾不同，這些方法絕對起不了作用，然後用盡各種藉口說這樣做就是行不通。針對這些主人，我願意僅收取微薄費用，親自和你家狗狗進行一對一教學，如果上課後你看不到顯著改變，我保證不收一毛錢。這些方法保證有用，你首先要親眼看到成效，就會相信。

不管你家狗狗問題是什麼，都是可以矯正的。當大家問米開朗基羅，他究竟如何把一塊冷冰冰的石頭變成栩栩如生的雕像時，他的回答總讓大家意外，因為他說自己無須創造什麼，只是放手去作，把原本隱藏在石頭中的美麗作品釋放出來而已，而你也可以這麼作。再壞的狗狗，心裡其實都藏著一隻好狗，千萬別以為把壞狗變好，是不可能的任務，因為狗狗的本質都是良善的，只是必須靠你幫牠移除阻礙物。狗狗是你的鏡子，如果你是好主人，狗狗就會變成好隨從，而別忘了，人人都可以當個好主人。

放輕鬆享受課程吧
但是，千萬不要過份講究完美，記得，每隻狗狗個性不同，在社交或體力方面自然會有不同表現。像我自己的狗，除了「來」和「放下」以外，其實聽不懂什麼指令。我喜歡狗狗保有自己的「性格」，也不喜歡看到狗狗一舉一動都受人類限制。避免當個控制狂，人、狗都會快樂些，只要在適當範圍內規範牠的行為準則，就夠了。

所以，好好享受接下來的課程吧！和狗狗一起練習，並且隨時把意見、心得和問題貼上來與我分享，以供我隨時修正。我隨後也會修訂文章，歡迎訂閱我的部落格。

相信你和狗狗很快就能過著幸福快樂的生活！

Nurturing a Better Dog, Trick No. 5: Ignore Excited Greetings

It's All Important

If you have been following the series so far, I hope will have been practicing the techniques and already experiencing a positive change in your dog's behaviour. Although the methods are simple and some may seem to have nothing to do with your own dog's issues, by practicing them all regularly and consistently, you will be laying the foundations for a much happier, healthier, relaxed dog—and you. So, please, before you read on, go back and absorb the previous lessons and start practicing them from now on; you really will see great improvement just by following the previous advice.

This next lesson, although seemingly ineffectual at first glance, has the potential to bring about a huge difference for the better in your dog's behaviour, particularly if they have issues with excitability, anxiety, separation, or jumping up on visitors. Admittedly, it is one of the most difficult to carry out—not because it is hard to grasp or master, but because it goes against something that we tend to look forward to and enjoy every day. It's about ignoring your dog when you come home.

Ignore When Returning Home

"What?! Ignore my dog when he excitedly greets me on my return? Turn my back on his demands for a hug hello? Be aloof to my best buddy? Why on earth would I want to do that?!" I admit that it seems counterproductive (and a little rude), but the reasons why you should ignore your dog when you walk in the door are manifold and of profound importance to his or her state of mind.

For one, we should never reward excited behaviour that your dog initiates (we can of course go crazy with our dogs once in a while, but always on our terms, on our say, and only until we decide that it's time to stop). When your dog jumps up at you when you walk in the door and you accept that, you are telling your dog that you encourage him or her to lose control—and that means allowing your dog's issues to dictate his or her behaviour. To control our dog's problem behaviour, we must be in control of ourselves and every situation at all times.

Maintain the Status Quo

Another reason is that it is allowing your dog to disrespect you and not only giving the go-ahead to challenge your role in his or her pack, but also submitting to his or her bid for leadership. A pack leader would never tolerate another dog jumping on his or her back (in play, yes, but never at a time when it is important to demonstrate leadership).

Furthermore, by making such a huge fuss on our return, we are encouraging our dog to see our homecoming as one of the biggest events in his or her day, and that's not good, as it just leads to greater anxiety or out-of-control behaviour in anticipation of that moment. The same goes for when you leave the house: you should always make these daily events as low-key as possible—for your dog's benefit.

Control

Another reason is that we do not want to encourage our dogs to greet people (or other animals) in this way, as it is dangerous to all concerned, unappreciated by most recipients, and can lead to situations where your dog could be labeled as aggressive or out-of-control—and we all know where that can lead, especially if your dog jumps up at a child or somebody whose reaction will only make your dog more excited and, yes, aggressive.

Be Aloof!

Whenever a dog's pack leaders leave the den, it is usually to perform a potentially dangerous task, such as exploring new territory, defending boundaries, fighting, or taking food. It is likely that dogs—including the pack leaders—could be badly injured or even killed on such a foray. When the scouting party returns to the rest of the pack, they will be greeted enthusiastically, with lots of whole-body wagging and face-licking, which are joyous but respectful behaviours. Pack leaders will allow other dogs to greet them in this fashion, but they do something very powerful to reassure all the dogs of their continued ability to lead, to maintain the pack's status quo: they remain aloof.

Yes, aloof! You can do it! Just pretend you're royalty (though, as far as your dog's concerned, you really will be). When your dog gets too excited—and especially if he or she jumps up—simply turn away (don't get annoyed; you're regal, remember!) and ignore. You may have to do this several times. You may have to very briefly push your dog down (do not linger!) and then turn and ignore, but ignore you shall . . . but (and here's the good news you've been waiting for) only until your canine buddy has calmed down and no longer demanding attention; once that has happened, you can crouch down (so he or she doesn't have to jump up) and enjoy a much calmer, much more relaxed, much more respectful, and much more loving greeting.

Should your dog get excited or try to jump up or paw you when you're enjoying this calmer greeting, simply stand up in an aloof fashion and ignore your dog again until he or she calms down—which will happen within seconds—and then reward that with calm, quiet attention again.

Dogs Want to Know You're Still the Leader

And here's the thing to remember: Your dog will not perceive you as being mean and his or her feelings won't be hurt; instead, your dog will enjoy seeing that the pack structure is intact, his or her calm, assertive, benevolent leader is still in charge, and he or she won't have to step into the stressful role of leader for the pack's sake. The more you greet your dog this way, the happier, calmer, and better behaved he or she will become.

You should also advise all house guests (or anybody who greets your dog) to do the same: tell them your dog is in training and please do not look, talk, touch, or respond in any way to your dog until he or she is calm, and then ask them to give your dog a very calm, very nice, very relaxed bit of attention. Always, though, let your dog smell anybody he meets; it's how dogs meet each other, but we humans go and break protocol—rudely and aggressively—when we try to greet them the way we greet each other, with sight, sound, and touch.

Make Yourself Busy

I have a number of dogs to return home to several times a day, and although a couple may bark as they hear me outside, when I walk in the door, I am greeted respectfully and therefore more affectionately by them all. I make a point of busying myself for several minutes while ignoring them all, before greeting each affectionately once I'm sure I won't be causing excitement. Do the same—maybe go empty your washing machine, or quickly sweep the floor before greeting your dog on your return—and he or she will be so much happier knowing that you've returned from your foray unharmed.

As always, change first needs to come from you if you want to see change in your dog. Enjoy seeing how your dog reacts when you no longer reward anxiety or excited behaviour, and use it to improve the relationship you have with your dog. Ignore (or briefly correct) what you would rather not see again, and give long, enjoyable attention to the behaviour you want to encourage. Behave like a leader at all times (though it's fine to instigate and end fun or even crazy activities whenever you think it suitable), and understand that we all have perfect dogs—we just need to allow them to be so.

I act this way whenever I walk into the home of a dog I need to help rehabilitate (or when encountering strays)—and usually we get a better-behaved dog immediately, much to the exasperation of the person, who can't believe their dog is refusing to show his or her bad side now the dog-rehab guy is here! Just by ignoring dogs and therefore allowing them to smell me unmolested while I remain aloof, I am able to define our roles as leader and follower, and everything else from then on is easy because of the greater compliance and calmness I get from the dog from the outset, which always amazes the people of the house. Once the people mimic this way of greeting their dog, however, they get the same incredible results themselves—and you can do the same.

Summary

• All the lessons pertain to your situation, so follow them all if you have a problem dog, no matter what his or her issue is
  
• When you return home, ignore your dog until he or she is calmer and no longer demanding attention
• Being aloof maintains the status quo and your control over your and, consequently, your dog's behaviour
• Your dog will love you even more, and in a more secure way
• Have others greet your dog the same way
  

If you have any questions or concerns about any of these lessons, please just leave your comments below and I will respond as soon as I can, and perhaps amend the article accordingly, to address the points you raise. I won't ignore you, I promise.

Be aloof next time you greet your dog, and let me know how it goes.

Cheers!


Seán

Nurturing a Better Dog, Trick No. 4: Lead the Walk!

(Note: This is going to be a long article, but please do read it through in detail, as this is one of the most important ways to have a happier, healthier, more balanced dog, and a happier life for you.)

Lead the Walk

Are you one of those people who dreads walking your dog because it always involves your dog barreling along the road, dragging you, arm stretched forward, running in a slightly sideways gait, and holding on for dear life, just hoping that your companion canine doesn't do anything embarrassing or dangerous today? If you are, then who can blame you for not taking your dog out as often as you should—for at least three bathroom breaks a day, and for a combined time of at least forty-five minutes, most of which should be on one particularly long walk? But here's the catch: as I mentioned in Trick No. 1, if your dog isn't getting out on a long walk every day, he or she will put all that pent-up energy to bad use.

So, the less you walk your dog, the more out of control he or she becomes, and that means a much more difficult walk. It's a destructive cycle. But don't worry; I'm going to show you how to make your dog walks a pleasure. And we're going to start by making sure you're using the right tool.

The Right Equipment

The vast majority of badly behaved dogs who pull on leash wear the same piece of bad equipment: the harness. A harness straps across the chest, giving your dog the ability to put all his or her weight into dragging you along, while doing nothing to control the head, which is the secret to controlling both a dog and his or her issues. What you should be using is a slip leash, a magical piece of dog-training equipment that is great for both you and the dog. Instead of putting all the pressure on the front of the neck like using a collar does, a slip leash spreads the pressure out, turning it into a gentle squeeze that goes all around the neck—try it on yourself; give a gentle tug backwards or to the side and see that it doesn't choke, but instead applies pressure all around your neck (if the dog keeps pulling and pulling, though, it can choke, so never let your dog pull, and always use a short, gentle tug and immediate release; also, never leave your dog tied to anything with a slip leash, as it will tighten on the throat if the dog turns around and around).

A dog has a natural inclination to pay attention when he or she feels pressure on the neck, as this is how a higher-ranking dog will show dominance, by mouthing the lower dog's neck; it's also how a mum dog calms her pups when she picks them up by the scruff and the mild pressure around the neck causes the pups to automatically relax. Make sure you put the slip leash on the dog correctly, with the leash part going from your hand and across the back of the dog's neck and then under, rather than underneath it and then up and over the back. If it goes across the back of the neck first and then under and back on itself, the leash will tighten when tugged but then loosen when relaxed, because the ring can fall; if the leash part goes under the neck first, then the ring won't fall when you relax the leash, and it won't loosen, which will just create tension. (If you walk the dog on your left, imagine holding the leash open in a P shape as you put it over your dog's head; if you walk him or her on your right, imagine a b shape.)

Head Held High

And to get your dog walking next to you without pulling, you simply need to just make sure the slip leash is high up on his or her neck, right up under the jaw and as close to the base of the ears as possible. This prevents your dog being able to move his or her head in any direction, keeping him or her focused on the walk instead; if your dog tries to pull, all that will happen is the head will automatically be lifted, preventing his or her ability to get traction to pull ahead. The difference between having a slip leash high or low is huge, with the former making walks so much easier just by itself. It's particularly effective at encouraging your dog to be more confident, as it helps him or her keep his or her head held high; just as mood effects body language, body language effects mood, so don't let your fearful dog adopt a fearful posture.

The Trick to Taking the Lead

But there are some pretty cool ways to have your dog accept your lead so that you don't need to keep him in check physically, which is of course better all round. Read on to learn a fun trick to teach your dog that he or she should completely forget about trying to walk ahead of you, and instead take his rightful place beside or behind you, never challenging your leadership.

(For brevity, in the rest of the article we will discuss as though the dog will be walked on your left, but if you walk your dog in your right, just reverse all the instructions.)

Keep your dog on your left and the leash loose. You want to have a calm, assertive, confident attitude and body language, and a positive image in your head of how you want the walk to be —expect the walk to be great (dogs read your mind through your body language very easily). But do also be prepared for things to start to go wrong and know how you will deal with them quickly and effectively so that you can get back on track—more about overcoming possible setbacks later.

Now, and throughout the walk, do not look at your dog; this just invites a challenge and shows that you're not being a good leader who would be focusing on the walk, not the dog. Wait until the dog is calm and not demanding to move forward, then give a little tug and start walking. Imagine an invisible line that runs left-right in front of you. As soon as you notice out of the corner of your eye that your dog even tries to pass that line (starts to walk ahead of you), immediately turn right 90 degrees and give him or her a quick but light tug to follow (90 degrees is better because you can easily tug him to the side but not so easily backwards). Stay aloof, but enjoy as your dog realises that the attempt to get ahead immediately put him further behind.

Your dog will catch up and most likely try to overtake once more. Just once again change direction, nonchalantly, 90 degrees to the right, and give a tug. Remember, do not look at your dog when doing this. Keep your shoulders back and your head up, and focus on leading the walk.

Do this again and again and you will soon notice that your dog isn't trying so hard to get ahead. Keep it up. Maintain the positive attitude and ignore the dog. Act aloof. Enjoy yourself. When you get the hang of it and feel more in control, start cutting him or her off to the LEFT; you'll be amazed how your dog starts looking up at you to see what you want him or her to do—or maybe just to admire you as you demonstrate such great leadership. Do a few more right turns, then a few more left, whether your dog tries to take the lead or not.

Stay Relaxed

Apart from when giving a light tug, you want a loose leash throughout—tension in the lead is tension in the leader-follower relationship, and it also enables your dog to test his or her physical strength against yours, so don't do it. Relax your arms, and relax the leash (especially when he or she meets other dogs—but more about that in a later article).

This whole exercise is a mind game. Dogs need a leader. If the leader isn't you, your dog will feel that he or she has to fill the role. By constantly showing your dog that he or she will always be behind you until you say otherwise, he or she will learn that it's his or her place to follow. The only way you can lose this game is to give in. Stay focused on having a perfect walk with you leading and that's what will happen (particularly with dogs, but also as in life, what you think will happen will happen, so keep a positive image in mind).

Your attitude is key, so don't let yourself get frustrated; if you control yourself, you control the situation, and that means you control the dog.

Taking It On the Road

I can fix a bad puller in minutes practicing this technique; it's never failed yet, no matter how big or strong the dog, nor his or her age. It works. If it's not working for you, read the instructions again and see where you're going wrong. It's probably that you're watching the dog, tightening the leash, or imagining it all going wrong—so DON'T!

You can do this exercise in a quiet road or park, where you have space to keep turning when necessary. Once your dog is walking nicely behind or beside you, you can start to walk in a straight line, but keep using tugs upwards and inwards (towards you) as soon as your dog starts to move too far behind, to the left, or ahead. Don't watch the dog; instead, simply feel the direction your wrist is being pulled in and just tug back.

Keep Control

For the first few minutes or so of any walk, while you are establishing leadership, don't let your dog smell the ground, go to anything, or even look at anything. When your dog wants to pee on a tree, keep walking, but allow him to pee at another tree instead. You are in control, and your dog will like that. Once he or she accepts your lead, you can grant more freedom, allowing your dog more of the leash to explore the environment as he or she wants, but never allow your dog to pull (just tug back) and make sure you take the lead again when the situation requires it or when heading home.

Be Prepared

There will always be times when you feel your dog is not accepting your lead or maybe starts to play up, perhaps because he or she is scared or wants to go and investigate something; just accept these incidents as great opportunities to once again demonstrate your leadership, and be prepared for how you will handle them. Here are some suggestions:

1. Just stop and ignore, even if it is fearfulness. Don't go anywhere until your dog is back in a calm state. But do give praise as soon as the dog starts to relax more. Alternatively, you can gently put your dog in a more confident posture, such as sitting with head up or standing with tail out or up, and then give praise and/or calming strokes.

2. Do the change-direction exercise a few more times until your dog has fallen back into line.

3. Give a tug up on the leash and make a short, sharp sound to get your dog's attention, and then just carry on with the walk.

4. Give a touch or make a 'Tsst!' noise to quickly divert your dog's attention back to you.

5. Push your dog's flank (around his upper thigh / waist area). This is a dog way of asserting oneself. You can use the side of your leg or knee if easier. But DO NOT HIT—it's a gentle shove, pretty much like leaning against your dog, to put your dog's rear slightly off balance.

Always, don't dwell on the unwanted behaviour; just quickly move on and focus on the good walk ahead, and expect your dog to follow alongside you. Remember to correct the behaviour at the earliest possible opportunity, which may be when your dog even just looks at another dog or a cat.

And be careful not to project your own fears onto your dog—this happens a lot! When you see something that you think may be a problem, just ignore it, keep your head up and shoulders back, and make sure you are not unconsciously giving your dog a clue that he or she should be prepared for trouble ahead. Control yourself if you want to control your dog.

Good Dog!

Whenever your dog is walking nicely, give praise or a treat. Speak in high, soft tones, and rub his side (not the head, which can feel like a threat, or the chest, which gets dogs excited). Let your dog know when you're happy with what he or she is doing and you will see more of that behaviour. Just be careful not to raise the excitement level. But dogs love praise, so be sure to tell them when they're doing great.

With your dog's perceived leadership on the walk now relinquished to you, you will start to see a huge improvement in his behaviour, as he or she will realise that it's no longer his (stressful) responsibility to decide what to chase, attack, jump up at, get excited by, or be afraid of. When people start to lead their dog walks, they all report that their dog seems happier, that the walk is far more enjoyable, and that their relationship with their dog seems far more fulfilling. You will enjoy those same benefits; all you have to do is believe it and stay positive.

Summary

Here is a summary of the most important points you need to remember:

• Leading the walk is key to controlling your dog's behaviour in other situations.
• Use a slip leash, and be sure it is on the right way round and high up under the jaw.
• Use light tugs to communicate with your dog.
• When your dog tries to walk ahead, just change direction, 90 degrees, with a tug, so he or she is behind you again.
• You cannot achieve what you don't first envision; how you perceive the walk to be is key, as your dog can read your body language, so say positive, confident, and calm, and always envision a great walk.
• Your dog will accept your lead if you believe it and don't give up.
• When demonstrating leadership on the walk, control everything; grant (and take away) more freedom once your dog is following nicely.
• Dogs are happier when they have a cal, confident, benevolent leader.
• Be prepared for opportunities to demonstrate you are a leader.
• Whenever possible, correct unwanted behaviour before it even begins.
• Do not dwell on mistakes; move on quickly from upsets and get back on track, enjoying a nice, calm, walk with your dog.
• Envision a good walk, and do not project your own fears; control yourself and your thoughts and you will control your dog.
• Praise lavishly or give a treat whenever your dog is doing well.
• Dogs want to relinquish control and their issues to a good leader—remember that.

Now go lead that walk! And be sure to let me know how it goes.


Seán

Nurturing a Better Dog, Trick No. 3: Leaders First!

This next dog-leadership trick is very simple to explain, but you will need to keep coming back to read it again and again to absorb the details, especially about how to back your dog up away from the door.

Enter New Environments First

When you take your dog for a walk, who goes through the door first: you or your dog? If you have a dog who is a nightmare to walk because he or she pulls like mad, or keeps trying to go for other dogs, or even shows fear at certain things, then you probably allow your dog to go through the door first. So many people tell me the same thing: "Fido is great in the house, but once we get outside, he just becomes difficult to control." If that sounds like your dog—or the opposite: your dog is fine on a walk but out of control in the house—then you're about to learn why.

Whenever you enter a new environment, whether that be going outside or inside, into a vet clinic, into a dog park, through a narrow lane, down the stairs, or even just into your yard or garden, you should lead the way. It's not that canine pack leaders go through doors first (dogs lead other dogs much better than us, and can do so from the middle or the rear just as well as from out front); it's slightly more complicated than that, but much more interesting:

A Leader for all Situations

According to research on abandoned or escaped dogs in Italy, packs tend to have one or two leaders, and it is most often a matriarch who takes on the lead role; however, very often, packs will have a different leader for different circumstances. Whereas the lead female may be in charge around the den, another dog may take the lead when it's time to go and reinforce boundaries, or to see off intruding dogs, or to go looking for food. This is a very efficient way of ensuring the pack is as strong as possible in any situation, since not every leader type is suitable for all situations. The rest of the pack accepts the leader of each situation readily, and harmony reigns because of it.

If you want to demonstrate to your dog that you are the leader in any situation the two (or more) of you proceed into, then the best way is to make sure you go first and with no attempts from your dog to challenge that. If your dog is allowed to go charging out the door, pulling you behind him, every time you go for a walk, then no matter how good he or she is at home, your canine companion will believe that he or she can easily assume the leadership role outside—and not being the best one to make decisions on what you should chase, attack, be scared of, or even bite, your dog will most usually invoke mayhem when seemingly put into that role.

Take Ownership of the Doorway

So, if you want to send a clear signal to your dog that it's your leadership that will dictate how the walk will be (and your aim should be for calm and controlled—more on that in the next lesson), then the solution is simple: take control of your dog before you head out the door, demonstrate leadership by remaining calm and assertive (and aloof), and make sure that you go through the door first while your dog waits for a signal to follow. You then make sure to do the same as you close the door behind you and set off on the walk (though your dog will almost always be 'ahead' of you at this point, he or she will be waiting patiently and without making demands until you are ready to lead the walk.

So how do we get the dog to go along with all this? Do we need to give orders—maybe have the dog sit and stay while we open and walk through the door? No. Giving dogs instructions is not the most powerful way to demonstrate leadership; what's most effective is when your dog works out for him- or herself the best way to show you in his or her own language that he or she accepts you control the door and therefore the walk ahead. If you follow the following guidelines exactly, then this is exactly how your dog will behave. Prepare to be amazed.

How to Lead Through Doors

(Remember: if you read carefully and make sure you follow correctly, this will work; if you need to see it in practice, sit tight for the upcoming videos to accompany this blog series.)

Leading your dog through the door will be much easier if you make him or her come to the leash instead of you chasing your dog to put it on. Just stay calm and stand confidently and quietly near the door until your dog comes to accept the leash (I know this will be impossible at first for many dogs, in which case, approach and leash your dog with the minimum of fuss). You may give the command for him to come to you if you want to, but only once—never incessantly. When your dog lets you leash him or her in this way, it's as good a signal as any that he or she is willing to submit to your leadership.

Lead your dog to the door. If he or she tries to dart ahead of you and put his or her nose near the door waiting for it to open or starts to try and scratch at the door, you need to step in and take 'ownership' of the door. Step in between the dog and the door, using the leash if you have to, giving tugs to make the dog back away to give you space to step in. Once there is enough space, loosen the leash and step into your dog, as though you want to walk into his floor space, in a calm, assertive manner, with a confident body posture and perhaps an 'Ah!' or 'Eh!' grunt as you do so. Do not do anything else that you think will demonstrate dominance, such as shouting, giving commands, being angry, raising the tone of your voice, etc., as it will likely be something that will actually tell the dog you are not really in control. If you like, raise a finger in front of you in a 'Don't even try it' kind of manner. This helps you feel dominant while also putting something above your dog's head, which will make him feel he has a superior above him or her. You can also tap (briefly push) his chest with your fingers in a kind of 'bite' action—gentle but firm, as though to guide.

Accepting the New Dynamic

Your dog will back away from the door, probably look confused at this new behaviour from you, and sit down. At the very least, he or she will stand and wait for your next move. You will open the door next, but first you must be prepared for your dog to try and dart through as you open it; know what you will do to counter this (exactly the same as you did to back the dog up in the first place, but with a very serious look on your face, and more stern body language, as if to say 'You are pushing your luck.' This will not make the dog scared of you, but will make him or her respect you more. Back him or her up again, and, while being prepared to step in again if you have to, know that, this time, your dog will stay in place, politely waiting to see what you want him or her to do. Dogs generally accept new leadership instantly and without question, and that is how we can achieve rapid change in a dog so quickly.

You should now be standing between your dog and the door, sideways on, so you can see both the door and the dog and are not blocking the doorway—this is very important, as you want the dog to stay in place because of respect for your new leadership and not because of a physical block. Open the door. Step in and back the dog up again in the same manner as last time if you have to, though by this stage you should find, to your amazement, that he will look at the open doorway and then you and back again, in turn, as he awaits your instruction. Walk through the door, prepared to back your dog up if necessary, but you should be able to just give a gentle tug and a command to come as you walk through the doorway ahead of him or her. If possible, wait until your dog looks away before inviting him or her through, as this ensures your canine companion isn't 'commanding' you or pleading to be able to go through, which would give him perceived status if that's then what happened.

Entering a New Situation

Get ready to control your dog once through the doorway, as he or she may think that it's OK to run ahead at this point. Simply give gentle tugs while ignoring the dog and remaining aloof as you wait for him or her to calm down once more. Close the door, and, once your dog is relaxed and not trying to make you do anything, head off on the walk, giving your dog a gentle tug as a signal to follow alongside. Remember, we always tug and immediately relax, as this prevents tension in the leash (and therefore the relationship) and gives the dog nothing lasting to resist. Give lots of praise (or a treat) as you set off, letting your dog know that he or she pleased you by accepting your leadership.

After a few times practicing this properly, you will have it down to pat, and your dog will understand the new procedure too. Never lose your temper or plead with your dog, and do not add anything else that you think may help. You want to keep everything simple while demonstrating control—of yourself first, then the situation and your dog. Follow this procedure when entering any new territory, environment, or situation, and you will be letting your dog know in no uncertain terms that your will shall dominate still and not your dog and his fears, excitement, or other issues that need to be kept under control. This simple technique, practiced at every possible opportunity, helps your dog to understand the new hierarchy. Don't feel sorry for him; it's hell trying to lead when you have know idea how to, and your dog will be happy to relinquish all that stress to you.

Summary

To recap the important points:

• You must go through doors first
• Dogs have different leaders for different situations
• If the dog is allowed to lunge through first, he or she will think that he or she can lead in the new environment
• A dog can be controlled by his or her issues, so if you don't lead, your dog and his or her problems will
  
• Dogs accept new leadership readily
• Stay calm, assertive, and aloof when demonstrating leadership
• Have the dog come to the leash, not you go to the dog
  
• Try to back your dog up with posture and a dominant attitude rather than physical force
• Tug, not pull; tap, not push
  
• Be prepared to respond to challenges
• Invite your dog through only when he or she is calm and not demanding
• Reward your dog for doing well
• Enjoy your new role as leader!
  

The next lesson will be on how to have your dog walking beautifully on leash, beside or behind you, never pulling, further enhancing the relationship between the two of you, and making walks a complete pleasure. So stay tuned! And be sure to post comments or questions, and please share this series with your friends.

Enjoy going first!



Seán